jb.

It does look bloody nice that. Been sat here drooling again at these pics. Still drooling whilst typing this reply.

I've been wondering how you were getting along with the M5. I got into RC stuff directly into bikes and nothing else, so I don't have a clue about how it is to adapt from an off road car background, but I wonder how far your expectations have been fulfilled from it so far? *By the way... Please don't put up big pictures of that bike. I only logged on to quickly have a peek before the (what I thought was the 8 o'clock) start of the motogp highlights and I eventually woke out of the trance at 8.20. AAARRRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!! I've seen it before and that bike has THE most amazing paint on it that make it just look unbelivably good. Utter stroke of genius. I'd still like to see more angles of it (if only to drool some more) but more to see how well that narrow painted seat hides the wide arse looks of the fairing from above. I'd also like to know how he fixed the Anderson fake disc to the Thunder Tiger front wheel. A dremmeled pmt200 wet up front and a proline road rage capping the rear would be amazing on that. I also like his recycling of a steering rod to act as droop limiter using a convenient point on the swingarm. Edit: I'm surpised he hasn't made some shiny footpegs made from a chassis post, cut down then polished. ...mmmmm....... and it wasn't like the bikes previous incarnation as a yellow Yamaha Supermoto was bad either, but... <drowning in drool>.

The Pug 405 is a disaster in looks. Holy cow! A Delta S4 would have been a better bet against the Integrale simply from the S4's big arches. Although I'd love an 1/8 buggy with a rally shell, I'm glad I recently bought a Tamyia TA01! For some reason, the Italians do a far better job with their RC roadbike fairings, mostly...

This has always looked a good spot. It is no longer used. https://maps.google.com/?ll=53.678866,-1.027393&spn=0.004734,0.011362&t=h&z=17

That's the one.

If you have transport and don't mind a trip into Lincolnshire, then there is EastCoast Nitro based just outside Mablethorpe. https://www.facebook.com/groups/376175025780259/

What size are those batteries? (LxWxH)

It's 32dp. Just checked here as the pinion meshs are the same for both bikes. http://www.atomik-rc.com/13T-Pinion-Gear-32P-VMX-450.html?sc=31&category=78815

You can use the cheaper centre cable batteries if you are confident of routing through the inside of the battery tray rather than having them come out of the front. If they wont do that, just cut the tray carefully and route the cables as close in and out of harms way i.e. the front wheel. As always, measure your battery tray before buying!

I think that only sales links to ModelSport UK are allowed (?), so here is the best I found for lowest price on a side exit cable route. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-supersport-7.4v-4250mah-30c-lipo-stick-pack/rc-car-products/369392

My old MM450 The M5CC (Carbon Copy) (during a painting rebuild) A much missed KP09e...

Just cut out where you need for the leads. Post #1 fully edited and gives dimensions etc.

Although it's advisable to put a balloon over the Rx, you'd be surprised at how little muck ends up on it. Rev the gyro up full tilt before setting off, then go and enjoy.

Please let us know the part number when you receive it. Ta!

Yep, wait until you are faster than the bike at all times around a track, then start with more power. I'm quite surprised as how lairy mine can be (eTronix 4350kv combo) and I have a slipper to help keep it under control! Closest I can get is its like a CR500. Fun but bloody hard work occasionally... (Did I say occasionally? Quite often she's a pig all the time, then others just so good that I can indulge at will). With a bit of luck the HitchHikers guide thread should be of some use to you. I'm batting away with the editing, refinement and additions but I'm slowly getting there. It's got a fair chunk of the basics in there now, and there's plenty you can do that costs nothing much more than time straight from the box. Edit: You are right about the Anderson having no LVC.

This thread should help out on the first post. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/21028-lipo-the-big-guide-thread-updated-march-10/

You're safe. More Mah just means more run time. My cheap chinese Lipos are 5000Mah (so they claim) and all was well with the standard esc/brushed motor. (Posted about 5 seconds after the above post).

I have to tip my hat to you sir, for that is gobsmackingly brilliant and I want one right now! Make it twin shock and you've pretty much nailed it for me. Though I'm intruiged if you are attempting an authentic style front mudguard.

You'd be surprised about that front wheel... KTM 450 Dakar 2014 with Anderson overlaid. I'm unaware of anyone modifying the battery tray, mainly because it takes a serious beating. Plus the bigger battery will lower the c of g, making it handle better. As for looks, I know the M5 isn't the best, but the low price and great spares availability make up for it. The only truly scale looking bike is or rather was the Venom VMX/Atomik MM450. Rare as hens teeth over here, now out of production. They generally go for around

Yes and er no! The stock motor is a bit weedy. I'm afraid it's probably more of a case of getting a cheap brushless system installed. You can get them from china for just a smidge over

Right then. About time some kind of guide to the Anderson M5 was sorted.We must have covered just about everything between us many times on the forum! Best suggestions here, piccies good too. Please post if you have something not covered or can suggest a better way. (Most pics nicked from the Dez Chand photobucket file. There's no point leaving that vast repository for great pictures unused. Ta Dez! (Bless Him). Launched in 2009 as a RTR (Ready To Run) it was effectively the only alternative at the time to the more expensive but better handling 1/4 ARx540. It has never had any factory updates since its launch so what you see available regarding spares and upgrades is all you will get from Anderson, though there are lots of upgrade parts on the market made by small outfits, with electric gyros, microdrive chain and sprockets and almost every part the bike has! With the recent and quick demise of the M5 Race, it's the only bike Anderson make though there are two types. The one you will receive has a brushed motor and 27Mhz Steerwheel Tx. Then there is the Brushless motor with 2.4Ghz Tx, known as either an M5 Pro version or as is more likely across the pond, a Duratrax DX450. Both Brushless bikes are unavailable from UK suppliers due to Sch...you know who, not importing them. Very popular on the UK market since the prices came down to under

Yep, good idea. I'll confess I've never messed with all the gubbins inside as I've yet to have a OWB failure or wanted to remove the weights so I'm yet to look.

Do you have a link to the wheelie bar you have? There are so many! A push fit if it's snug will probably work ok. They only have forces acting on them one way (unless you use it to pick the bike up).

Please do not ride the bike without flexible fred on board. When the bike does a cartwheel, Fred soaks up much of the energy and allows the cartwheel so you can continue riding. If the bike cartwheels without him on board, it applies full force to the tail subframe hastening its demise. It'll break anyway but far quicker without the rider. However, the bike handles better without the higher centre of gravity, (but looks odd. Ghost riders seem strange to me). As far as UK buying prospects go for off road bikes, then the Anderson M5 is about the only pick you can have for a sane amount of money. The ARx maybe better but it costs in proportion. Edit: I think this video shows the cartwheel effect best.

200mm is the length of the shorter plastic bars supplied with the bike so good memory! I had to cheat and look for the online manual to check!