babyface

Thanks for the help guys, I will post updates when the parts arrive. Thanks once again

Yep, turning both wheels same way, turning the wheels different ways its quite loose. Right, New bearings, 20t pinion gear, metal motor mount and plastic gear set ordered. So rebuild time soon. Is white spirit ok to clean grease of things?

I think its a ball diff at the back. How loose should this feel as mine does seem not to bad when turning one wheel by hand. But turn both rear wheels and it does seem tight. This is with no motor in. I ask as my tl01 just seems to much smoother but i know it has had loads done on it.

How does one change the position if it is tight?

Thats great. Shopping here I come. Thanks for all your help tonysmini, its been invaluable. Few more questions - the stock motor has 2 holes in for engine mount placement, why does the Etronix motor have 2 pairs of holes? that for slight adjustment? Any point on changing the rear diff? isn't there a hopup option for that?

With that engine mount, i cant see were the two screw holes are to attach to the car body. Do they come in the box? Also with ta02 gears is that a plastic rear diff cover as well? As i can see alot more in the bag than the two metel gear replacements. Thanks for the help

Sorry, what one? no link. Also made a mistake. the drive gear and idler gear are metal - so much grease could not see them. Thanks

Tonysmini - Yes got the manual. Rear box has plastic gears in, Pinion motor has sharp teeth. Has thus ordered new bearings and will order new pinion gear as well. Have 2 motors, the origional silver can motor ( i assume) and an 21t etronix motor - both are ok to turn by hand. Unfortunately have now buggered the motor mount - looks like I over tightened one of the screws and now the plastic has cracked were the screw goes in. do Modelsport sell these mounts as I cant find one.

ok, had the TA01 apart to test each section, front diff / reaf diff etc.. for smoothness. By far the worst point for rolling resistance is the spur gear to gear on the motor. After taking both diffs out and the motor add a piece back at a time added slightly to the resistance but only a slight amount with each bit added, after adding the motor back in it got really notchy so isolated the rear gear box from the rear diff and front section and it seems the motor to spur gear is really notchy when trying to turn. Any ideas on things to check or any improvments I can make. Thanks

Ok. Motors been out and no difference. You lost me a bit after that im afraid.

Been out today with both cars and the TL01 last a good 50% longer on the same battery than the TA01. Any other hopups on the TA01 that will help out extend battery life? Thanks

The car will be on dry road most the time, any good makes to look for in bearings?

Hi, Tried and no difference. There is a very small amount of free play on the wheels before I assume the diff engages and then it becomes stiffer. Its not bad, the wheel can be turned with ease but its just not as smooth and the Scooby.

Hi, First timer when it comes to RC cars be forgive any noob questions I may ask. I found myself an old TA01 Ford Escort Cosy which seemed in pretty good shape so cleaned it up and stuck an electronic ESC in it and all works ok. This led me to getting an TL01 Subaru Impreza which has been fully ball raced and but I am surprised that the rolling resistance on the Scooby is so much better than the Ford. Does the rolling resistance of the cars make alot of difference to battery life / run time etc...? The Scooby you car by hand give the wheels a push and they just keep on rotating, the Ford that stop dead. Thanks Alex