babyface

The broken part is cheapo plastic shock body so thought now is the time to upgrade as I can see the part breaking again.

Hi, They look approx. 108mm fully extended centre to centre. Alex

Hi, One of the rear shocks has broken on the Desert Wolf. As I have to replace them is there a sensible upgrade for the shocks. I can see a aluminium set listed specifically for the wolf but everywhere is out of stock. Would the below as an example be any good? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-aluminium-oil-filled-shocks-rear-sidewinder-viper/rc-car-products/383181 Thanks Alex

No, I also run karts so know the joys of what happens when bolts are over tightened. Its not as if the steering only has the problem on one side, so if you turn to the left, it needs re-centering to the right a touch, then do a right turn it needs then needs to be re-centred the same small amount (1 or 2 click's) the other way. Lots to try so will report back soon.

Yes its as per the pics, with straighten and try that. Thanks

Looks ok.

Thanks for the replies. Any thoughts on the range?

Ah ok ty. How do I test that? Plus the servo is the following: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-ms-29mg-digital-9.0kg-servo/rc-car-products/389672 There are lots more expensive, but lots cheaper as well.

Not sure what you mean by horn, but I have already read the thread by Stretch (before purchase) and pulled back the max steering lock as the steering link was hitting the chassis brace. Again hasn't made any difference.

The steering was the same before and after I check all the fixings, tightening didn't make any difference. The servo has max 1mm play on the arm, and after checking the my other r/c cars the Maverick has less play in the suspension and servo arm than they do. Thanks

Hi all, Got a Maverick Desert Wolf for bashing with recently, seems to run ok out the box but I have 2 questions due to my limited R/C experience. Firstly the car doesn't seem to run in a dead straight line. I use the steering trim to adjust the steering so that the car runs straight, but when you then turn a corner, its then slightly out. So you go a trim up the steering again, turn another corner and the steering is out by the amount you just trimmed it up by the other way. I've checked all fixings and all is tight. There does seem to be a little play in the steering components without the servo moving. Secondly range seems a little low, we are looking at 25m line of site before cut out. Is this about right for the setup supplied with the car - link below. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-desert-wolf-1-8th-brushless-buggy/rc-car-products/389511 Many thanks Alex

Tightened the nut up and all is well. Seems you can alter the power split between front and rear axles depending on how much you tighten the nut.

Ahh dont worry then, im looking for an "as new" part. Thanks all the same.

Please, pm me with cost and a Paypal account I can send payment to. Many thanks

Thanks, let me tighten the nut a bit first and test again tomorrow. I left it pretty loose. I did swap the plastic parts of the rear diff when overhauling.

Anyone?

Any news on the part mate?

Rear diff was refurbed a few days ago. But would it make a difference how tight the diff nut is as i left it pretty loose. The 4 wheels do spin when not on ground.

Hi, Got a ballraced ta01 Ford Escort Cossy and all runs well with it after getting it sorted but I have noticed on tarmac today it seem to suffer from alot of front wheel spin with none at the back as if more power is going to the front. Is that just a habit of this chassis or can the rear diff etc.. be tweaked to help out? I ask as when compared to a TL01 chassis, the TL01 does not wheel spin at all. Both are on silver can motors. Thanks Alex

Hi, As title, need the 2 screws for a TL01 chassis motor mount. Thanks Alex

Thanks. just want to check the underside is fairly unscratched.

Hi, Whats the underside of the TL01 chassis like? Piccy would be good. Thanks

It wasnt spinning freely which made me wonder if it was correct.

Ok, one strip down, clean, replace parts and rebuild later - all is well again. Now free wheels cleanly with no binding and motor fits again with the new motor mount. Weather permitting thinks I will take it out tomorrow for a bash. As a side note after taking apart the rear diff, removing the solid grease!! and putting back together I noticed the nut may well of been done up to tight, is this a common problem. Thanks for all the help guys, would never of been able to do it without you. It was easier than I thought it would be so will now have a go at the TL01, give it a clean and rebuild. Thanks once again. Alex

Right, the parts have arrived. Are the bits TAMIYA " TA02 4WD TOURING & RALLY CARS" for both the front and rear gear box or just the rear? Thanks