hipwell

Will take 130 for this collected.

Selling my hyper 7, I was going to convert it but to be honest I think I'm going g to concentrate on my touring car racing. Anyway, comes ready to run with glow starter, hump pack and charger for both. Force 32 engine with 16 tooth clutch bell with Hong nor red alloy clutch shoes. All diffs have been reoiled, 1k rear, 7k middle 7k front. As have the shocks which are running 400cst all round. Only bad point really is that the rear wing cracked and I haven't got around to replacing it but they are only 7 quid on ebay. Collection from Sheffield only at the minute as I would prefer to show the buyer it running fully before collection and payment.

Sorry if anybody has viewed this but I'm going to close it as I've just realised the costs involved in converting! I think I'll sell the hyper as an rtr and look for an rtr brushless

I'm planning on converting my hyper so I'm selling the engine, exhaust and air filter. It's a force 32, it's had roughly 2 UK gallons through it and has tons of compression. Price includes force 32, hobao exhaust, manifold, Hong nor red alloy clutch and 16 tooth pinion, pullstart, OS8 plug and air filter. I will also throw in the fuel tank and lines, the tank is slightly melted on the exhaust side but still sealed perfectly fine. I'm after

For racing or just bashing? Looks a good basher, sealed shaft drive will be more robust. As a racer it looks pretty basic and probably wouldn't compete with newer top spec models.

Same here. You can even flash the xerun 2.1 firmware to it

I have only ever tuned by ear and smoke. These engines make a horrid screaming noise when they are revving too high when they aren't rich enough, it's easy to tell.

Ah right is that the little 14th scale trucks? May be completely different with those then as I've never ventured into using them, not much help I know.. On the carpet we use In touring sorex 28s have great grip even if you don't apply additive.

Schumacher mini pins on carpet on a touring car? Is it super low grip carpet? If not then sorex 28s with an orion jb blue insert is the best combo for carpet. 32s if the bite really comes up

Not nessasarily true, I bought a hobby king xcar 120 for my mates touring car on a budget, and after a bit of reading turns out it can run the same firmware as my hobby wing xerun 2.1. Considering it was a third of the cost of the hobbywing it's been a good reliable esc for the last 12 months running hobbywing boosted firmware.

Strange as with that setup i posted my back end is planted. How did you set your droop? This can have a big effect on lift off oversteer. I stopped using a droop gauge and now set droop by measuring the distance from ride height to the wheels just lifting off. 5mm lift on the rear, 3-4mm on the front. Are you running just the 1 1mm spacer under the front front toe block as i suggested? Yeah the original driveshafts are useless, but the revised ones are solid, ive been on the same set for the last 6 months with no breakages. Ive never raced on tarmac so it may be a completely different setup is required. Post on the rctech forum in the h4e thread, theres lots of tarmac racers on there.

Ah right. Makesure your front track rods are the same length, center the servo before you attach the servo saver, put servo saver on aiming perfectly up, then adjust the servo link length to centralise the wheels. This will give equal throw left and right and you shouldnt need to make your left right end points different on your transmitter

Any luck with that setup mate?

Find a shop who deals with cml distribution for the hobao. my local shop orders parts direct from cml and I get them in a couple of days.

Hmm I race on carpet so this may eb completely different but here goes. 1.5 camber all round 3 degree rear toe in 0.5 front toe out 1mm shim under all 4 inner and outer camber links 1mm shim under the front front toe block non under any of the others. Droop I now measure up travel from ride height to when the wheels lift. Front 4mm rear 5mm. rear shock tower 3rd hole from the top front shock tower in the middle. 5mm front height 5.5 rear kit amount of shims on the steering arms Front and rear diff holders both at 12 o clock 25wt associated oil all round with white springs 2k diff oil in the rear. camber links in the longest option as are the track rods Think that's about it, and it flys. Really stable.

Cool sounds like a good start then. If you don't get anywhere with setup I'll post my full setup for you, my car is planted. One thing I will say is that the kit diff oil is a bit thin, I've had best results with 2k

Have you raced it yet?

What class are you running? I race on a fairly big track 13.5 boosted and I run an fdr of 7.6. Stock spur with a 21t pinion. With the driveshafts I took the dogbone off, greased the end of the axle and bone then reassembled and used a little heatshrink to hold the little clips on. this really helped them to free up and now my driveshafts have done about 40 races and are still perfect. Yeah get that spool bit swapped, the thin one will bend for sure, and I'd also recommend getting the steel spool cups so your not wearing out the plastic blades In the ends of the shafts. I made a custom bumper for mine too, to give a bit better front end protection and haven't broke a bit for months now, my mates xray t4 15 is much more fragile than the hobao, and I don't think it's any quicker.

You will find out as soon as you tap a track marker lol. The new knuckles have got a much thicker plastic around the pivot point top and bottom. Make sure you grease the joints on the driveshafts as they are quite tight to start with. And also make sure you use the thicker spool, the thin one bends. You get both in the kit but the revised part isn't in the bag with the rest of the spool

I get mine from the local model shop, he just orders them direct from cml, however I haven't broke a single piece in about 3 months now. My best advise for this car would be read the 62 page thread on rctech Ensure you build it using the latest plastic parts as the original stuff breaks really easily. Grease your driveshafts before use Buy the steel spool outputs to do away with the plastic blades. Be careful if you do order spares from demon as the plastic parts are likely to be the old gen. I love mine and regularly beat t4s, mi5 etc, I will be keeping this car until parts stop been supplied or a company brings out a car that would instantly make me a second faster Also, bin the stock shock bladders as they might aswel not be there and get yourself a set of these. They fit perfect and don't let any air in http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?product_id=375566

Yeah ofna seemed to really push it and knew all about the different gen parts. Cml on the other hand haven't got a clue, it's just took me 3 weeks to get hold of some gen 3 knuckles. Not sure if they were playing dumb to clear out old stock or just genuinely couldn't see a different in the thickness or the pin holes lol

Such a shame this thing didn't really take off, I'm stocking up on spares just incase it getting discontinued.

Anybody here still running a h4E? Really enjoying mine now hobao have ironed out all the weak spots with the new parts, had nothing break for ages now. Still playing with setups but whatever setup I go for seems to be a huge step forward from my mi4 In terms of grip.

I won a ta06 pro on ebay about 18 months ago for 120 quid but i sold it straight away for a similar price because when it turned up i realised it wasn't a high spec race car. So im saying about 120, but again that was ages ago so price could be alot less now,

Most cars will be like that, helps with stability.