gavin28

Just looked at the pics, and as someone else said the big-end bush looks very worn, you may need a new con-rod too. Also have you checked the pinch yet? If the piston and sleave aer worn it may be more economical to get a good second hand engine or even a new one. As to your original problem, check the tension of the clutch springs, if they are weak then this would cause the clutch to drag at a RPM lower than idle speed and would require a high idle gap and cause difficulty starting and tuning LSN - i know from experiencing the same thing on one of my engines. Also if the clutch shoes were very easy to fit, this could point to weak springs too, i fitted 1.1mm HPI springs, and it makes a big difference when it comes to re-fitting compared to weak 0.8mm springs (and acceleration on high grip surface, but that's another topic)

The bolts may seam to go in fine now, but when under tension and with expansion due to the heat of the engine they will most likely strip out due to having too few threads remaining, If your buying a new crankcase make sure you get new bearings too. Bearing can be bought from rcbearings.co.uk, ebay etc cheap enough anyway. Rubber sealed for the outer bearing and open for the internal one. Still cant believe you did that to your engine

wow, why didn't you drill the heads off? That engine block looks wrecked, doubt you could to torque down the head bolts after that. ,

thats because its in a sealed bottle, leave fuel open to the atmosphere and it evaporates, like when you leave it in your fuel tank

If you mean the allen head has rounded off on your head bolts, then what i do is tap a long torx bit in with a hammer ( not too hard don't want to damage threads/engine), heat engine with heat gun or hair dryer and then try to undo the bolts. Usually works fine and you have to replace bolts anyway. If that doesn't work drill the heads off, remove head and use vice/mole grips to unscrew the protruding bolts.

None of your pics show an air filter fitted, was it ran with out one?

pm sent

You buy the bearing separately. Measure it and check out www.rcbearings.co.uk, always good service from there.

Also dont forget to seal it all back up with RTV or equivalent when you but it back together

Usually undo the nut holding carb on a few turns then push it in slightly and then the carb will pull off, twisting slightly if its stuck but be careful not to damage o-rings. I clean mine with carb cleaner, as it blows through the small passageways with some pressure behind it.

Either you have an air leak in the fuel system (including pressure pipe from exhaust) or the carb is gummed up with old fuel and needs cleaning. My moneys on gummed up carb.

get a hair dryer on it and warm it up, works for my nitro hawk If its been sat for a while fuel can gum up in the carb and will need cleaning/blowing out.

Diff oil will be too thick, check your manual for oil wieght required, and do both shocks to keep it even. Check for binding too, rust my have set in on a pin and be causing something to bind. Make sure the nuts holding the top of the shocks are not tight, again causing binding.

How about this for

Both ideally, 12kg/cm upwards and 0.17 sec or lower would be good, even the cheapest R46 linked to is more than up to the job, but remember you get what you pay for. But having said that, I use a cheapo MG946 with a aluminium servo horn. I got both for