Chris_H

Ok thanks for the reply. Is there a better receiver with a longer antenna aerial I can buy to give longer range? That would work with the DX3C? The one that came with it is rubbish, small Aerial and small range...

I've got an HPI vorza, I've also got the DX3C and the Receiver that comes with it. The receiver antenna is tiny, it has hardly any length to allow it into the antenna tube. I installed it in the Vorza and find that the buggy now has far less range than it used to have. The safety cut of kicks in when the buggy is out of range. When I had just the stock HPI Vorza radio and receiver it would go much further than it does now. I'm assuming the shorter antenna is to blame? So I was thinking about putting the Vorza receiver back into it, would it bind with the Spektrum radio? Or only work with the Vorza Radio? I can go back to the Vorza radio, but it doesn't look as good as the Spektrum radio and kind of defeats the purpose of buying the after market radio in the first place. Cheers, Chris

I don't and haven't yet lol... just play with the Vorza buggy in the street, not been to the Adur club in a while as had a new born son to deal with etc... The guys at Adur are a friendly bunch, the on road tracks decent, they also have an offroad track during the summer that I haven't been too yet.

I'm in Shoreham, got a hpi vorza (needs fixed, easy enough) I'm thinking of getting it out the cupboard after it's long hibernation lol. Been to adurs on road track a few times... I notice the BMX track next to the adur rc track has been upgraded a bit (see below) Anyone bash there? https://www.facebook.com/pages/Shoreham-BMX-Track/304542906339134?id=304542906339134&sk=photos_stream

It's a 64dp pinion and spur it has to be meshed relatively tightly. However as it's alternating between forward and reverse I think it might be the diff?

They all turn in the same direction. But it's 50/50 whether they all go forwards together or in reverse together. When I ever so slightly touch the throttle to get the wheels to turn very slowly, it fights against itself and then either goes forward or reverse, so I'm thinking it must be the diff?

Hi, I've just built the Hot Bodies TCXX.. When it's sitting on it's blocks the wheels turn fine when I do full throttle. But when it's on the ground the car just locks up and the motor screams. I'm thinking I've messed up the diff assembly? Cheers, Chris

Matt, I've bought a 60t spur and 37t pinion 48dp as you suggested to start me off. Thanks Tim, Thanks for the offer mate. Hopefully I can get the car built and ready by the 10th of March. It's my first time building one lol

Sorry posted twice there in error

Hi Tim, I'm Chris from Adur (the Scottish guy haha) i'm iust starting out in touring cars. HPI don't make spurs or pinions at the size I want, but they said I can use other manufacturers, so I'll see if i can order them tonight. The cars still to be built though. I'll be running a Speed Passion v3 mmm 17.5 and speed passion reventon pro esc Cheers, Chris

Matt, Thanks for replying, your assumption hit the nail on the head. I'll be using 17.5 on blinky mode. The guy who advised me to do 88t spur and 54t pinion seemed to think it would fit on the TCXX as he uses it on his TCX the previous version to my kit, which I think is very similar. My main concern now though is obtaining a Spur and Pinion for my kit. As I'm a begginer to touring cars this question might be a daft one... Do I need to get a spur and pinion made by Hotbodies for my kit or can I use ones made by other manufacfurers? Thanks, Chris

Ok, I'm a begginer and basically have no clue what to use. What would you use? haha

Thanks, I'll do that now.. The guy at my local club said an FDR of 3.18 is best for this car, he used a Ratio Calculator on his iPhone. He says he runs it on the TCX version which was the previous version to this Kit. This is my first time buiding a Touring car. It will be used for racing on a medium sized outdoor track.

Hi, I've just bought one of these... http://www.hpieurope...o=68299&lang=en I want to change the spur gear to 88t and the pinion to 54t I've looked for these specifically for this car but can't find anywhere selling them. I am a begginer, is it possible to use spur and pinions from different manufacturers? Cheers, Chris

Hi, I have the Vorza, currently all stock. I know this buggy isn't the best for racing (well so I'm told). But now that I have it, I thought I might change a few things to improve it's ability when racing. At the moment it's racing on tarmac as the off road track is out of bounds due to the weather. I'm looking at doing the below.. (1) Lower the pinion tooth count and drop to 46t spur to increase aceleration. Possibly 13/46 or 14/46 (What gearing would you/do you run for racing?) (2) Change settings on the esc, probably punch etc (Opinions?) (3) Get rid of the stock tyres because they're like driving on glass especially when the tarmacs wet. (Ideas on tyres?) And as for handling, apart from the tyres I don't have a clue... any thoughts? Cheers, Chris

I'm going to get this -> http://www.modelspor...-products/31244 Wouldn't increasing the pinion size on a 48t spur increase the top end speed, but lower acceleration? I read that punch controls how quickly current is transfered to the motor and that if I lower the % down this will effectively give no limit to how quickly the current is dumped in the motor? So do I need to play about with the punch also to increase the acceleration?

Hi, The Vorza's a bit slow in accelerating on 4s. What's the ideal gear setup to maintain a relatively good top end speed with better acceleration? I know I need to drop to 46t Spur and could lower the pinion tooth count further to increase acceleration, but would the 46t Spur counteract the smaller pinion by still giving a decent top speed with the increase acceleration? Or would the top speed suffer a lot? The gear setup would be for running on a medium sized tarmac track until the summer. Cheers, Chris

Yeah I was meaning the hex pin through the stub axel (just not used to the terminology) I managed to take it apart, and yes it has some sort of oil/greece on the stub axel. Do you know if I need to use a specific type? Cheers, Chris

It must just be my rubbish driving as a novice then haha. When you replaced the rear hubs, there's a bolt with what looks like a pin in it. Do i need to remove that pin from the bolt to loosen it? Also does any oil need to be applied when replacing the rear hub? I'd appreciate your input. I can see on the exploded view on page 39, it shows the pin going into the bolt. http://www.hpieurope.com/manuals/pdf/101709.pdf Cheers, Chris :-)

You're probably right, but it was nothing I noticed. If it had been fitted with Aluminium rear hub carriers I don't think it would have broken though. Maybe I hit something in the car park. Not sure... lol

If it were strong they wouldn't need to offer aluminium after market part as an option to strengthen it, as it would already be strong enough. And no I haven't so much as even did a jump with it, I was running it in a car park with very small loose stones and the wheel just simply started hanging off. I immediately assumed it must have been a loose bolt as I had taken it relatively easy on the throttle and had done no jumps. That's when I found out a bit of plastic had broken, which I then identified as the rear wheel hub carrier. And nice Vorza, I think it was a good idea doing it white, as the car can look quite small when it's far away. That probably gives good visibility.

Hi, I've used the HPI Vorza twice now, and I've already found a couple of obvious weaknesses, where HPI have used cheap parts. One of them being the rear Hub carrier. I'm sure there will be a few people here who have had the same problem with their Vorza as the part just looks very easy to break. With that in mind, I've purchased a new set... I didn't go for the aluminium type yet as I've just bought the car and to be honest find it hard justifying to myself spending extra money for a stronger after market part when I spent so much money to buy the car in the first place. Anyway, rant over haha. When assembling the rear axle holder into the rear wheel hub, does this require any oil? Or do the parts just fit together? Is there anything I should know about carrying out the replacement? Thanks, Chris

I'm new to Lipo powered brushless cars, but have just ordered an HPI Vorza Flux (soon to arrive). I've read online that your not supposed to fully discharge a Lipo as a low voltage can be dangerous. I'm assuming the ESC on the Vorza can pick up low voltages and hence cut the car out when it reaches a certain voltage? Or do I need to work out when the car should be stopped myself?

Hi, I just bought a new Vorza from ModelSport, I understand it's not waterproof, so I've ordered one of these from the USA --> http://www.outerwearsracing.com/proddetail.asp?prod=202650 As it's an international purchase it's likely to take a long time to come, so my question is, being winter the grass is nearly always wet, even when it's not raining... is it ok to use the Vorza on wet grass? Does anyone here do this without the use of a shroud? Cheers, Chris

I don't think it is. I just bought one, it doesn't list waterproof on the manufacturers website, and I searched the instruction manual using ctrl+F for the word "water" and it doesn't feature anywhere on the documents, so I think it's safe to say it's not. However I've purchased this from the USA to protect the electronics --> http://www.outerwear...asp?prod=202650