hicks451

Hi Stormbringer, Thank you for your reply. Much appreciated and very grateful. I have been doing some digging regarding the Hobao Hyper 12 engine and it looks like my version came with a bog standard Carb which only has the highspeed needle to adjust and not a low end needle as shown on other versions or models so i am going to replace the carb with a much better quality one so i can set the needles to the recommended settings rather than the settings that i need to use with my version. I did what you said and set the high speed needle flush with the top and then leaned it out in 1/8th turns but even at three turns it seems far to rich and just bogs down and cuts out when i add to the throttle so i have a feeling i need to lean it out even more and that means go below three turns and i do not want to have it to lean and damage the piston and sleeve so a new and better carb seems the way forward. Thanks again for your help and i will keep you posted once i have bought the better carb and installed it to start the fine tune again. Have a great weekend and all the best!!!

No one has any experience with Hobao Hyper Engines enough to post some descent needle settings that might help? I find that hard to believe so it must be oh a noob members noob question so we can't be bothered and oh we have a tone of posts so find them yourself post? I do not need help with tuning the engine as that isn't my concern only the conflicting manual information regarding the needle settings after engine break in from pre set factory settings as listed in the OP. But no probs I will try on a couple of other forums and hope i get much better luck with them with a more friendly crowd who are willing to help even with a noob question that some might think are not worthy of the effort because it isn't a Mugen Seiki MTX7 with a Noverossie Mephisto.12 engine and only a old crap vintage Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car with a bog standard Hyper 12 Engine to get someone back in to the hobby again. Hope you all have a great weekend. All the best.

Hi all, I have just finished my Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car build and completed the Hyper 12 Nitro engine break in using the factory pre settings but now i am about to start the tune i am getting conflicted information from the manuals? On the manual that came in the box it says i need to set the high speed needle 6x 1/4 so to me that means one and a half turns from closed but when i look at another manual it is saying three to three and a half turns from closed for the high speed needle and the bottom end needle needs to be flush with the ball collar but the ball collar i have doesn't adjust anything accept the ball collar itself so now i am not to sure what settings to start it off with to start the tune? One and a half turns seems to lean for my likings and three to three and a half seems to rich so i am now hesitant to start the tune and was hoping i would be able to get some help and advise from members who might have some experience with Hobao engines? I have left a link to one of the manuals as well as a picture to show my version of the Hyper 12 with no bottom end needle adjustment so that you can see the problems i am having with conflicted information from Hobao? Hobao Hyper 12 manual link. http://hobao-racing.com/en/images/pro_file/20160923135118@Hyper 12 Engine.pdf Hobao Hyper 12 Model Sport link with picture of my version of the engine. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=29628 Many thanks in advance.

Thanks DanFlux. Really appreciate the comment and kind words mate. I will post a few more pictures once i have added the Diff and shock oils and completely built her up again. I also have to add the belt tentioners and hop ups as well as get some pictures of her shell once that is finished as well. Take care mate and thanks again. All the best. Bows

I have gone and bought some 5000 and 7000 diff oil and some 35wt and 40wt shock oil so i am just waiting for them to be delivered and then i will rebuild the whole car and post some pictures of her complete with the BTCC Volvo 850 Saloon shell that i bought from L&L models.

If anyone has any cheap spares for the Hobao Hyper 10 that they want to sell then please drop me a line and i will reply asap.

Here are some of the pictures just before i added the latest parts that i ordered as well as a new fuel tank and engine. I also decided to use a spare RC heli Spektrum reciever that i had lying around as it fitted much better than the old style crystal recivers i had and also installed a mini fail safe and converted the reciever box so i could access it without having to take everything apart if i ever loose connection and need to re set everything.

This was the second stage of the rebuild after finally getting a small amount of parts to get her complete as well as restoring the wheel and spraying the tuned pipe.

Hi all. I just wanted to share my vintage Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car rebuild. It's taken me quite a few years to finally get her completed but i am pleased to say that i finally have done it. It only cost me 20 pounds on Ebay and the first four pictures are from the seller and the rest are the different stages as i sourced the parts needed to get her back in to running condition. I have also managed to get a donor car for twenty five pounds as well as plenty of other spares so i am hoping to get her to my local track once the covid 19 lockdown has been lifted. I hope you like what you see and i will post more updated pictures once i put her back together again after stripping her down to fill the diffs and shocks with new oils and i am also in the middle of spraying a BTCC Volvo 850 Saloon shell but need to do some adjustments on the camber as well as get some 4mm wheel hex to get the 190mm shell to fit perfectly. If anyone else needs any help with a Hyper 10 Touring car rebuild then drop me a line and i will be more than happy to help them out the best i can. All the best.

It's great to see some of the members posting the mag pictures of some old classics especially the Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car as i have just managed to finish a very long project that i have spent the last few years trying to complete and finally got the last hop up parts to get my Hyper touring car finished. I will be posting some pictures of what she looked like when i first got her to what she looks like now she is complete and i just need to pick myself up a descent Tamiya Touring car shell and then she will be ready for the track. I would love to be able to get a clearer look at those pictures without the Photobucket writing across them so if you are still around and still have those pictures please drop me a line so i might be able to see them in a better quaility. Also if anyone has any spares for sale or trade pm me and i will get back to you asap. All the best.

I am still looking for any Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car parts so if you think you can help please message me and i will get back to you asap. I will also be posting some up to date pictures of the car as i know have her completed minus a BTCC shell that i would like to put on her. Many thanks

Many thanks for your replies and suggestions there much appreciated. I did say I would prefer the old style stick controller but after looking up more details on the controllers mentioned I do like the look of the absima cr3p. I checked out a few reviews on youtube to see what others thought and the abisma seemed to get a good reception so I might consider getting that to start with as it's a descent price and something that wont break the bank to start off with. If anyone else has any other suggestions please leave a post. As for converting a stick to 2.4 Ghz it's a good idea but I would prefer to just get a new completed 2.4 Ghz Controller but thanks for the option and for letting me know that converting is a possibility. Many thanks

Hi all, I have been away from the hobby for some time now due to some circumstances but I have managed to get some free time to get back in to the hobby and was hoping I could get some advice from you all regarding a new current 2.4GHz 3 channel stick controller system where you can do more custom set up changes for a descent price. I am running the old style crystal set up which is pretty dated now and I want something more like my Spectrum DX6i for my Align 450 Sport & V2 and was hoping if some of you could point me in the right direction for ease of set up, a descent Price plus compatibility with other receivers. I would prefer a stick set up but would also like to hear about the other types available and whether it might be an idea to change to the gun style controllers. Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated as my Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car project is nearly completed and so I would like to see what's available so I can get everything set up and ready to take her back on the track. I look forward to any replies and thanks in advance.

Hi all, I have been trying to re build an old Hobao Hyper 10 Touring Car but I am struggling to find the last few bits to get her completed. I will leave you the list of the few parts I need and if you think you can help me out please PM me and I will get back to you asap. I have tried the main Hobao site but I can't seem to get the sale completed via paypal and I can't find the parts I need in any other shop so any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance. Hobao Hyper 10 Fuel Tank H224036 Hobao Hyper 10 Air Filter H224040 Hobao Hyper 10 Clutch Nut H224044 Hobao Hyper 10 Engine Mount H224053 EDIT. I have managed to get an order in with the Main Hobao Website so I am no longer in need of the parts listed unless anyone has the parts going for cheap as spares to add to my other loads of spares I have collected already. If you think you might have some parts for the Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car PM me and I will let you know if I am in need of the parts being offered. Many thanks.

Many thanks for your replies. We had a look at the losi mini Truggy but they would prefer 1/10th scale if possible. But thanks again it's much appreciated!!!

Hi all, A friend of mine has asked me if I could try and find a good quality 1/10th scale electric off road car for he's son and so I was hoping if a few of you guys would be able to give me some advice on some upto date current off roaders that will have plenty of spares that will still be around in the future and something that is made buy some of the better manufacturers so that we can keep it on the road for some time? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated as I am not up to date with all the new off roaders and so I want to find out as much info on as many descent cars as I can get so we can get him something that will keep him happy and on the road for as long as possible, He's budget was around £300-400 but I am sure we can get something that is say under £200 even less. I look forward to any replies and appreciate any help and advice we can get. Thanks in advance!!!

Thanks paul, Sorry i haven't been in contact mate lifes been pretty busy lately so i haven't had the chance to even get online. I will Pm you asap to get your paypal details and get the funds sent over to you by friday afternoon or even sooner. Thanks mate i really appreciate the help Plus thanks to everyone who has left there kind comments!!! I couldn't of done it without your help!!! Thanks lads and all the best. Kind regards!!!

Thanks lads i really appreciate the compliments as it makes all the hard work and effort worth while!!! It took me some time to get it looking the best i could and i added a few new parts to make it look as new as possible so i'm very pleased with the final out come. I just want to buy some new tyres and a BTCC looking shell and then it will be finely completed with just the final break in to go. The GX15 starts perfectly now with no probs at all so it shouldn't be long before i can have some fun with it!!! As for the bearings Saab, I am defo going to take you up on that bud as my Hobao Hyper 10 is up next with just the bearings,new engine,Wheels and tyres plus shell to go and then that will be finely completed as well. PM me the details and we can go from there mate, Well thanks again lads you have all been great and i appreciate all the help and support over the last few weeks!!! All the best!!! Lee

Hi all, Just a quick one lads just to thank all the members who have been kind enough to help me out with all my issues regarding my Kyosho GX15 Engine and the break in period. I have had quite a few issues trying to get it started as it's my first nitro engine i have ever broken in and first nitro car i have had in over 25 years. You have all been great and i can finely say it's up and running and starts first time around and with no issues at all. :)What i had to do was sort the carb out as well as make some new O rings with motor bike gasket paper to get the exhuast to stop loosing pressure as the rubber O rings had seen better days plus i bought a brand new Glow plug starter from MSUK so now i have sorted all the issues she is running perfectly and i am now half way through the break in period and not far from finely being able to get some fun run time in with her. You all know who you are and i couldn't of done it without you all but i also want to thank Anthoop who has always been there no matter how nooby the question was and was always there to keep me optimistic no matter how annoying things got when i couldn't get it started. Thanks bud you have been a true gent and i owe you a few bottles of white wine if i ever get the chance to do so!!! lol I have been trying for weeks now but have learned so much from you guys and from the MSUK forum. This is the best forum in my opinion with the friendliest members and so i look forward to posting more questions when i get to finish of my ageing Hobao Hyper 10 Touring car. I have also posted a couple of pictures of my Kyosho GP 3 which has caused me all this hassle lol just so you can see what was making me post so many threads in the first place lol Thanks again lads i'm very grateful!!! Lee Before i bought it on Ebay Some after pictures of when i finished it but still need some new tyres and BTCC shell Picture with old wheels and shell

Thanks lads that's helped alot. I just wanted to double check first before i tried again and hopefully i've got it sorted out now. The other reason why i keep asking questions is since my master card got screwed because of a messed up order with CML distribution and paypal i can't buy online and so i dont want to screw anything up as i can't just buy anything if something goes wrong and my mastercard issuer are vetting me again due to a cock up by paypal (please read my other thread about CML screwing me over a canceled order for stock they said they had and didn't) so intill i get that sorted i'm screwed because there isnt any RC car shops anywere near me even though i live in london and you would think there woud be loads Anyway Anthoop has been great these last few weeks and has been there for me on all my questions so thanks again bud i couldn't of done this without your help!!! As for the rest of you, Thanks lads i know it's an old engine and car but i wanted to start with something easy and cheap intill i get the hang of it and then upgrade to something up to date once i have found my feet. I really appreciate all the help and advice and i know my questions can be nooby at times but i prefer to ask for help instead of making mistakes and messing things up first time around. Well thanks again all and i will keep you all posted on how i get on and if all goes well i should have it up and running and broken in as soon as possible but failing that i will just have to wait intill i get my card sorted and then buy something that's up to date and built and not second hand lol. All the best. Lee

Many thanks for your replies. I fully understand what you are saying and i'm very grateful but what i am trying to say is when i open the needle valve one turn from closed i can't get any air through it by blowing down the tube and i can only start getting air through it when i open it one and a half turns from closed so i wanted to know if that was ok and how it should be so that when i do add it to the engine and start it up i will have the correct settings for trying to finish the break in. You need to have the needle valve open by three turns from closed so that it's rich with fuel but if fuel isn't going through the carb intill one and a half turns then when i open it three times from closed it would only really be open one and a half turns? Surely fuel should start traveling though the moment you open the needle valve and not after one and a half turns? I know this sounds confusing and i probably ain't wording this right lol but i dont want to use the carb to break in the engine if i'm thinking i have it rich like it should be but it acturly isn't and i'm damaging the pistin and sleeve without knowing it. The reason i am leaving this thread is because i have had nothing but agro trying to break in the engine and i could only get it started when the idle gap was fully open and the needle valve at three turns yet the idle gap should be at 1mm so when i realised the carb might be set up wrong and i took a good look at it i saw that it wasn't put together right and so i had to take it all apart to put it back together again the correct way. The part that takes the fuel into the idle gap was screwed in to much and so that's when i could only get it started with the idle gap fully open as it was blocking the air way and so i had to unscrew it so it was in the middle and in the correct place so now i have put that right i wanted to make sure i have the needle valve set right so that i know i have sorted the whole part before i try to use it on the engine. If anyone knows about the Kyosho GX12 or 15 i would be very grateful for any help and advice you could give me on making the complete carb assembly set up correctly. Thanks again for all your replies.

Hi all, I am just about to rebuild my GX15 carb again as it wasn't set right when i bought it and so i was hoping i might get some advice before i start the build. I just wanted to know about the needle valve settings and how many turns it should take before the fuel starts to go through it? I am turning it one turn from closed yet i can't get any air through it and i was wondering if that would be correct or should i start getting air through it after just one turn? The air doesn't start going through intill at least one and a half turns so i wanted to make sure i get this right as i don't want to set it up and it isn't correct and so i wont never get the correct settings for breaking in the engine and tuneing. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated as this is the first time i have done this and want to get it right first time around. Many thanks and all the best.

Just as i thought mate, I completely took the carb apart and gave it a good clean and then put it back together again the correct way and now i can finely get the right settings sorted I'm not to sure of the parts name but the part that goes into the main body of the carb was screwed in to tight so it was effectively blocking the idle air gap and so that's why it would only start when the gap was fully open. Now i can get the correct settings of 1mm idle gap and 3 turns on the throttle valve adjustment I really dont know why i didn't try and sort plus check that part from the start and if i did it would of sorted all my problems strait away but were i thought it was ok and just added it to the new parts that's why i have had so many issues trying to get it running. But saying that if i didn't have all these issues i wouldn't of learned as much as i have and so i'm pleased anyway as i now know how to troubleshoot most things when it comes to the Kyosho GX15. I have read so many threads and posts with the same issues i've had yet i haven't heard one reply saying to check the carb so i'm 100% sure that if anyone else has the same issues that i had they should check that part of the carb to see if it's been screwed in just a little to much and then just readjust that part and then they shouldn't have any problems getting it started but make sure you get it as close to the middle as you can without it blocking the air gap to much so theres plenty of room for the air to flow freely. Well thanks again for all your help Anthoop you have been a massive help and i really appreciate all the help and support you have given me and if anyone else has this engine or has any issues trying to get it started please just PM me or leave a reply and i will try my best to help out. Plus thanks to everyone else who has tried to help me as this is defo the best forum i know of to get a friendly responce no matter how nooby it is and i think some of the other forums need to take note as i basicly get no responses or very little and so i doubt i will be useing them again. Anyway i'm just about to get the ball rolling again and i will keep you posted on how i get on with the break in period now i shouldn't have any issues getting the correct settings. Many thanks and all the best. Hicks

LOL Well a couple of bottles of wine it is then Anthoop lol. I've managed to get the engine started ok but only when the air intake is nearly fully open? So what i did was take the carb off and took it all apart to rebuild it just incase there was something wrong with it as i got that one from another engine i bought and didn't check it first time around because it looked ok to begin with but i think it was done up to tight on a couple of joints. Hopefully i have sorted the issue now so i can get it to start with just the 1mm gap and i will try again tomorrow afternoon. I have managed to get a couple of tanks done but only by starting and stopping the engine when i have been trying to adjust the settings. I have also only been stopping it by plugging the exhuast and not line pinching as i've read that can damage the engine at this point in the break in period so hopefully i havent caused anything so far. Well at least it's running and all i need to do is sort the carb and settings and i will keep you posted on how i get on. Have a great week and weekend mate and i will speak to you soon, All the best Anthoop

Thanks mate, I appreciate all the help and you have taught me a lot and it has all come in handy because i can finely get her started first time around and have managed to work out how much fuel to air to add. I dont think you can get the engine started with just a 1mm gap and 3 turns as it just wouldn't go no matter what but i have opened the air intake in small increments to get the right balance and now i've fully got the hang on what to do. I have managed the first two full tanks on a rich setting and so i'm going to do one more to be on the safe side and then i will start to lean her out and get the air intake to the recommended 1mm. Well at least my patience paid off and i never gave up LOL and now i can at least enjoy myself instead of going mental LOL. I will keep you posted bud but i owe you big time and if i ever get the chance the first few pints are on me Have a good one Anthoop and all the best!!!