Cammie838

Pity this group seems to have died. Still go out with my two!! Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Just a worn spur gear then mate, simple cheap fix. Just make sure you line the engine up straight without any tight spots when you spin the spur gear over when setting the mesh and you're good to go.

The spur is a cog that sits on the clutchbell and that in turn, turns the gearbox and your wheels. if the clutchbell doesn't spin I'd guess your clutch is gone. If the spur is worn it wont have any teeth.

Got him saved in my fav sellers..... every time he puts things up I want em all lol

Undo the engine bolts slightly then push the engine towards your spur gear. Then take your folded paper and feed it between the spur and clutch bell by turning the spur gear. This will 'push' the engine away slightly creating a slight gap between the spur and clutch bell so just nip up your engine bolts then take the paper out and the spur should spin freely with no binding spots otherwise do it all again until its right......

Might be an idea to get a failsafe dude lol....Reasonably cheap and easy to set, that way if the batteries die again the failsafe will kick in and apply the brakes for ya.

Wow! That thing really shifts!!

Yeah, agreed. It''ll be your one way bearing. And for the Nova race heads, I dont think they made one for the 28, could be mistaken though, but if you scour ebay On the american site I'm sure they still make 'em for the 50

If you got an iphone or similar, just search for free speedometer, i got one but too scared to put my iphone on the mta and watch it rattling round lol

You could get alloy hexes, but if your driving style stays the same, that will as you say melt the wheels eventually with the doughnuts lol.. If you upgrade one part, something else weaker down the chain will break, its just a viscious circle and a money pit! For me, part of the fun of the hobby is fixing it again once I've been out and trashed it lol. My mrs does her nut coz I'll spend hours in the garage with 'em!

You got them mount screws out yet or still scuffing your knuckles lol... Just thought maybe if you put an ordinary allen key on, then put a ring spanner over the top of it to try and give it a bit more leverage it might help it to crack loose..... Or give you more scuffed knuckles!!

The slipper clutch isn't for when a stone gets caught in between the spur, its to help ease the drivetrain slop when you blast full throttle and off and back on again and also when going over jumps.... Again, to protect the drivetrain.

You need a bit of 'give' in the drivetrain somewhere mate, as annoying as it is replacing a plastic gear cog, its more annoying when you gotta junk the whole drivetrain cos a stone or something flicked up and got jammed in between the clutchbell and spur gear (if its metal) and rips up the gearbox or your diffs... I wouldnt be a happy bunny!!

Theres 4 bolts holding the mount in under the truck... They are a bugger to get off sometimes, just gotta keep trying I'm afraid lol

I think you might have to take your truck apart and take some pictures of your 'all plastic diffs' If they were, they would explode as soon as you put the throttle on! As I said the diff cups are plastic, gears inside are not!!

Only the diff cups are plastic, everything else is metal inside of it, just give it a good clean to get rid of the grease and if the gaskets are ok (they normally are if you take em apart carefully) fill with fluid so it is JUST above the diff cogs, seal up and done mate Jordan you are right, the gearbox has no oil, just a type of light white lithium grease to keep parts moving, we're on about the diffs lol

Hello mate, if you tear your diffs down you'll find they're packed with grease... Clean it all out so its sparkling and if you're looking for a diff oil similar to the grease in em originally I'd go for around 30,000 weight in front and rear for bashing, or for racing 30,000 front, 10,000 weight rear diff. Hope this helps, Cammie

Agreed. When you switch the truck on its default setting is forwards. If the shaft is sticking out or you can push it in thats reverse and your linkages need adjusting mate

Yeah mate it is a straight swap.. If I remember rightly the s50 rollbar is slightly thicker and a bit shorter. You could leave the s28 one on and take off the spur gear cover and put the s50 rollbar in the hole from the spur gear mount and there is a hole the other side that lines up with it at the front of the engine, then when you roll it over there is no chance of the engine scraping the floor.... If you understand my poor description lol

I have some similar shocks on mine by G.P.M (the piggyback ones) I think the springs are a tad on the soft side really, and I'm running 80 weight oil in the back and 60 weight in the front and still find that when I blast it the back of the truck still almost scrapes the floor under acceleration >:-( Good shocks though, I'll jump her at least 20 foot and never had a cap pop off or any type of issue with them... Just thought, maybe because mine are the piggyback ones it makes them more sloppy maybe?

Jordan is there still a small rubber seal on the carb when you take it off? I dont know if that would help hold it in, cos its mainly to do with keeping the engine air tight.. Tbh it sounds like you've bent the carb for it to be falling out as I'm pretty sure they only slot in a certain way before you nip it up... I'd have to check mine to be sure, but dont really wanna take it apart lol

Sean-vrs and morphet If you chuck out that spring on the brake servo and replace it with fuel tube the same size ish that will make the brakes a lot firmer and helps with the terrible brake fade too on these heavy ole lumps... I put some fuel tube on the front too cos for some reason the brakes on mine have always stuck on (the brake arm doesnt move back) when I use em..even tried putting springs between the pads to push the brake off, but the fuel tube mod works the best.. I'll try and get a pic up to show you what I mean..its a pity I cant just upload pics from my phone it'd be a lot less stressful for the technophobes amongst us that have a meltdown everytime we use a pc lol!

Yeah we like that the summit shell looks and fits quite nice Is it wired with lights?

It might of been the first version of the S50 gearbox I'm thinking about then that had problems handling brushless power... The yanks seem to know their stuff when it comes to trucks... The original MonsterGt.com was my bible for years lol!

Are you gonna lock the tranny in second gear? I heard that if not it will still rip up an S50 tranny cos of the amount of torque those mambas have got! I'd love to do an electric conversion on one of mine, but I know nothing about lipo's or the electric side of things at all really...If I did do one I'd go down the centre diff route I think...Gonna be watchin this one mate!!