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If we could get the hobbywing Max10 combo for £90 that would probably be a stretch but would be good. How would this compare to the goolrc motor suggested? Where can I get this combo from?

Thanks

Thanks ostewart, Any other recommendations or advice on what I should be looking for? Cheers

I bought myself a traxxas rustler vxl brushless a couple of years ago for me and my son to get into and a year or so ago he bought himself a HPI E-Firestorm 10t so he could join in the fun and have a bit of racing. He got this as it was a bit easier to handle and now he has got the hang a bit he is looking to get some more power from his car. My immediate thought was to upgrade the esc and motor but haven't a clue what I am looking for or things I need to consider. It would be good for him to get something similar to my rustler so we can race evenly. Does anyone have any suggestions, recommendations or advice please? Thanks

As the second hand set was sold could anyone recommend motor and esc packages that would be good for the hyper?

Cheers all, I hadn't considered converting to electric. Is the esc and motor combo recommended above as good as I will get for the money or are there any other recommendations? Along with that would there be any other specific equipment I would need Or things to think about.

I suppose I am looking around about the

I will be using on a variety of surfaces but mainly tarmac, Dusty car parks/gravel and occasionally grass. The firestorm flux is an rtr but I would quit like yo build my own this time round.

Last year I got a rustler vxl brushless which is good fun for me and my son. I then bought a hyper nitro so we could have one each but due to the noise and maintenance I don't use it very often. I am therefore looking for an electric buggy kit to build myself that will be similar or slightly better in speed etc to the rustler but close enough to be fairly even. Could anyone recommend any models or give me advice of what to look for as I have no idea. I never fully got into it but if we have two electric cars we could race each other.

They are both a bit dicky.

I got one with the car second hand an the other is from model sport

Is there a way I can check or fix this?

I have two overlander 3900 mah 3S batteries and think they may be faulty and wondered if there is anything I can do to fix it. I think both have a dodgy cell but not sure how to test it. 1 doesn't always recognise as a 3s battery on the charger and the voltage of 1 cell is way off the others. The other one just has different voltages and when charging it charges at full rate en drop to 0.1a and the voltage of the cells fluctuates. Any advice would be great.

Exactly my thoughts?

Is there a way to check what charge is left in a Nimh battery (or other type for that matter)? I have some Nimh receiver packs for my nitro car and wondered if there was a simple way to check the remaining charge so I can avoid it running out.

I've ordered a cheap temp gun from hobby king so will wait until that arrives to tune up. I did fill the tank to fire it up and test it and I must say it did seem to be easier to start but didn't run it hard or for long.

I've just found out there is a model shop quite close to me so have just been down and they had byrons 20% and I had a chat with the guy there and he said he doesn't sell much at all and for bashing about he would recommend te Byron 20%. I bought a galon bottle for

25% it is then. Only decision now is byrons or optifuel and race or rtr.

Just doing some browsing and it seems a Minefield. I have a hyper 21 so I'm now not sure which % or brand would be best. Would I be better with 20 or 25 and which brand is the easiest to tune with?

I hope it doesn't turn into a huge debate but how are the fuels so different if they have 25%nitro surely they shouldn't be too different. I will do some research and have a look. Where is the cheapest place to buy these recommended fuels?

I think the servo set up is what caused the last to blow. It was a tower pro mg995, not the best I know but should have been ok for throttle but I wasn't aware of the EPA on the transmitter and didn't have it on throttle on my model only steering and the brakes didn't have much movement so think this wore them out. I have swapped transmitters with my sons electric model which has got EPA on both so should be sorted as long as the alturn servos are ok.

I've got to get a new servo and a couple of plugs then can have another go. I got a power hd 1501 from models port on their recommendation for the steering and now the throttle servo has gone. Looking at the reviews the power hd isn't very well reviewed but seems ok to me. I am thinking of the alturn 750 for the throttle and brake, any opinions? As for fuel is the model sport fuel ok? I assume it is made by a proper company and badged for them.

I use modelsport own brand 25% fuel as it was recommended. I have just ordered a cheap turnigy temp gauge very similar to the one you linked as it was less than a tender and the cheapest locally was about 20 quid. I didn't want to spend a load for something I may use a few times only. I know people can't specify settings but what is the average number of turns or limit that will definitely be too lean? Is this something that can be stated?

I'll have a watch of that video thanks. I have watched quite a few and read loads but when I tried I could tell it was too rich as it was boggy and when leaned out it went quicker. I couldn't then tell if it was getting too lean as there wasn't much difference in terms of smoke or any noticeable signs. It did seem to rev more but not sure what length it needs to run for. I could still see bits of smoke but I had screwed the needle in quite a bit so don't now if I went too lean and the brakes had gone so I had to coast to stationery. As I had to coast I did notice that when releasing the throttle the engine seemed to run on a little bit, could this be a sign of being too lean? Are there any other signs of being too lean that are easy to notice?

It's a hyper 21 3 port I believe and the first plug was a bit dirty but I think that blew because I left the igniter on too long whilst figuring it out, the second plug looks clean and fine, the filament has broken that's all. I have started tuning from factory settings yes but have played around quite a bit to teach myself. What is the best way to test for an air leak as I don't know what is easy or hard to tune as I haven't had a nitro rc before so am not sure if this is the problem. I did get it running and ran a few tanks through it doing some high speed runs and it seemed ok but then when I next looked at it later that night the plug had gone.