TheOne1974

If money is no object then Specky all day long, if funds are an issue then you cant go far wrong with a Flysky FS-GT3B or GT3C http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flysky-FS-GT3B-3CH-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Receiver-for-RC-Car-Boat-/160865100561?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item25744ea311 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLYSKY-RC-FS-GT3C-3ch-2-4GHz-LCD-GT3C-Silver-Transmitter-GR3C-Receiver-TS896-/270996093195?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f18a0390b Extra receivers for under a fiver, i run all my cars on them with no issues, loads of reveiws out there about them. Cheap and chearful but not Specky standard!! Aaahhh the deadly "I'll have one last try before i go home" jump, cost me a few quid lol

You'll do things worse than that mate, I've spent half an hour trying to start my car without the starter in when I first started lol

Perhaps try in the receiver battery box Also if you've still got the screw down one get yourself a 3 way receiver switch so you dont have to keep onening the box to charge the pack!!

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/B6130222.html http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/108248/

Tried to put up a link for the Stainless Steel Screws i got from ebay but cant find them and the seller is gone, but they are great, I would say their the same as the simply RC ones and much more durable than the standard HPI ones!! You can get the replacement foams for the Byron Filter from Wheelspin and Apex, over the weekend ill see if the foam from my HB one fits my Byron one, dont know why but never tried or even thought about it before lol

You will not be dissapointed, the Losi buggy's are awsome but the Trophy will take more punishment!

The original nut does work with the 3 shoe clutch, I'm using that setup in 2 cars and have been for well over 6 months!

The original nut does work with the 3 shoe clutch, I'm using that setup in 2 cars and have been for well over 6 months! The original nut does work with the 3 shoe clutch, I'm using that setup in 2 cars and have been for well over 6 months!

I would go for a 4s lipo, I'm only using the 12v gel battery at the moment as thats what mine came with.

I've got a 12v gel battery in mine which turns over with no problems, if your really stuck throw a 4s lipo in there, that will turn anything over trust me!! On another note make sure it is perfectly lined up, my SMD Evolution will not turn my engine over if it is a frction out of line!!

I use these and have never had any issues, even use them on my track racer, Losi 8ight with Alpha engine: http://www.hpiracing...p?partNo=101199 http://www.hpiracing...p?partNo=101201 And i use the same nut!!

Don't know about the buggy ones, although the fitment holes will be the same, but i'm 99.9% sure that these will fit http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/Hot-Bodies/Lightning-Stadium2-Pro-c251/ they are near enough the same truggy.

Hi there, Could anyone help me please, I have searched and searched but can't find anyone who stocks the "80119 Nylon Post Set", have tried SMD directly and they have an order on route due for delivery in 2 weeks, they advised me to try JEModels who again don't have any stock. Don't suppose anyone knows a stockest??? If not does anyone think i could use any thing else? I only need one post and it's driving me insane!! Thank's for the help.

Hi guys, Mine engine never stalls on braking with my servos, even when i was running the 1256 on the throttle/brake. Starter box's are worth their weight in gold, run mine of a 12v gel battery but when that ran out on saturday my mate put a 4s lipo on his, wow what a difference, lipo's definately the way forward, starts the car instantly, I just got a Prolux easy glow starter, just tried it out and what a diffence between my old chargable one!! http://www.modelsport.co.uk/prolux-easy-glow-supply/rc-car-products/23073

Mine has done the same, but didnt realise till yesterday when i tride to roll it. Need to find a fix for it pronto. I'll keep you posted if i find a way to stop it, likewise if you find a solution let me know please mate?

Please Ignore

There are many different ways to break in an engine and it just seems to be personal preferance to be honest but I agree with Deafty, Heat cycling is the way forward, thats how most of the Racers do it. Just need a heat gun or hair dryer, temp gun and when cooling down definately ensure it is at BDC. Just find a process you feel comfortable doing and take your time, it's a long and very very very boring process but it is worth it in the long run!! Ok my boot is full, so time to hit Herts Nitro Track

I think the humps are a great upgrade, what does everyone else think about them? Frustrating isnt it, I get the same when i've not had enough time to get out and although it's more expensive, thats why i don't always shop round, sometimes it's easier and quicker to drive 2 miles down the road to my local rc shop than wait days for it to turn up in the post for

Currently I run 1256 & 1258 and before that I was running 1256 & 1256 and my HPI 1600mAh will always last for two good days bashing, but I always turn the switch off as soon as I stop running and i have a battery level indicater fro the receiver battery. I know a lot of people have had success with putting the HPI steering servo on the throttle and just replacing one, keep the old throttle servo as a spare, it will run of AA's but to get the most out of them you need humppack, even the standard servo's are better with a humppack!!

6.7mm and 5mm above in picture I'm currently running with the wider stance of the 6.7mm, which does give a bit more stability, not a great deal in it though! And yes it comes with the pins, just make sure you locktight the grub screws!!

Deafty, what is a starting block?

That sounds like me lol, but generally I take out a couple of cars, Lipo's. the longer I've been doing this, the more I've been taking out with me lol Yeah, that was the first one I downloaded, very helpful, there are a couple of others if you have time to search!! Starter box is the way forward gentlemen, I've lost count of the times I removed the skin on my middle finger pulling the pull start befor I got the starter box for my Losi EU!!

I run 25% Opti or HPI, it's made at the same place (confirmed by the back label) and im told by my RC shop they are the same, with the only difference being the HPI comes in cheaper!! As for setup, as carmst74 said, it really is personal prefferance as to which way you go, your driving style and the track will also have a big impact. Google "Hudy truggy setup" there are several PDF's to download which will offer a lot of help!

Was going to try and turn the fuel inlet. The longer fuel line gives me a bit more time to get to the car when it's on the roof without the engine cutting out, a mate told me to do it as he read it on a savage forum he uses, not sure if it really works to be honst but she spends a lot of time the wrong way up and I dont think it cut's out as quickly as it used to! Yeah, not so much flex as rocking from side to side, my Losi still does it so i'll take a vid and post it! There was someone on here before that had metal posts reather than plastic, definitly the way forward i'd say!

All rebuilt and out for a blast yesterday, really pleased with it overall, not that i was unhappy with it before lol. There were no issues at all with the parts moving from the Lightning to the Trophy, everything fitted perfectly!! Only one minor issue being that one of the brake cam's is binding a bit so does not loosen off when comming off the brake, may need to trim a tiny bit of the plastic that holds it in the diff holder. Used to get a lot of movement on the upper chassis from the servo's but get pretty much none now! Decided to change the battery/receiver tray as I hate having to undo the 4 screws anytime I need to get in there, plus I don't need it to be waterproof as I dont go in water!