kingscott

Hi everyone. I'm restoring my dads old RC12e from the mid 1970's like this below: http://upload.wikime.../9/96/RC12E.jpg Its been over 15 years since I had any electric RC knowledge, it turns out I'm now a little in the dark ages. Basically I have a rolling chassis in very good order. I was going to keep even the radio gear vintage but it turns out its rare as hell and expensive for new old stock. I think I would like to go down the brushless route but I'm totally confused with the whole brushless thing going on! Can anyone recommend a nice brushless combo for a 1/12th scale car and what battery's do these things use?? I don't have a massive budget and I'm certainly not off racing with it but I would love to get it running and looking nice what sort of cost am I looking at for a motor, ESC, battery and servo? The original motor size is a 540?? least I think that's what they call it? (like a old tamiya kit) even better if someone is selling some kit that would be great. Any pointers and info would be super, does anyone else own one of these? (and no its not for sale, sorry) Many thanks Adam

How small do you want it? I think a retro fit wouldn't be hard on any RC car. Can't imagine there are specific RC cameras for sale with fitting kits for specific cars?

ha ha :030:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MD80-Mini-DV-DVR-Sports-Cam-Bike-MotorBike-Camera-04-/320763807776?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item4aaf034820#ht_2941wt_1139 I want one now!!

No worries mate, pleasure to help because I know how frustrating it can be. You be buying a losi 8ight next!!! ha ha ha

And who ever told you that the engine dead is talking Sh@t Don't mess with the fuel adjustments yet, just keep it standard until at least 4 tanks. if in doubt put it back to factory settings, 1/8th of a turn can make a huge difference to the point of making the car not run/start. Check the guides on this site forum.

Hi You may have flooded the engine, remove the plug and pull her over a few times to clear the engine. Give the plug a dab on the glow starter to burn off the excess fuel from that and stick it back in. now try to prime the engine, stick a finger over the exhaust stick the throttle open on the transmitter and pull her over up to 10 times ish, this will bring fuel up to the carb. Now stick the starter on and try her. Its more of a flick of the wrist rather than grunt. Like I said new engines are a right pain. They can take a real tug sometimes to get it moving mate, its the compression. Just give it a good pull. You can pick up the weight of the car up (and some) with the pullstart due to compression of a good engine. Also when your running in, tip the car on its side once in a while and poor out all the oil that will collect in the exhaust. Hope this helps.

Dude, it was a joke!!!

Sorry I don't understand you? The only reason a starter will be oily, is because its got oil on it??? What size is the engine? an .21? if so on 20% I would go for a OS 8 (OS being the manufacturer) Its a medium plug. Plugs don't change size or type, just the grade/heat that they run at. (Unless its a turbo head glow plug but you don't have to worry about them) Any medium plug will prob be ok, get a few tho as you will probs kill a few whilst running in and tuning it up. ************************************************ If your truly doing this for a 4 year old mate I would seriously think about getting a ready to run electric? Nitro takes up lots of time, you can spend equal time messing with them as you can actually driving them. Plus they can be quite dangerous with the heat etc. You will probs spend lots of time both being disappointed. Plus they stink!! ha ha This will do you proud: http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=ansmann+rtr&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3821408789913331978&sa=X&ei=qo98ToRrwqvRBa23ueMP&ved=0CF8Q8wIwBA But that's up to you! Good luck mate.

One last thing, don't get crossed with the glow plug numbers, each manufacturer uses a different system, so a number 4 on one make can be a different grade to another make. http://www.scootworks.com/rdrc/gloplugs.html Cheers.

No mate, Run 20% fuel or 25%, not 16% I find Byron Race gen 2 is a good fuel, but everyone has there faves. My mate has a 1/12rc he messed about for hours/days trying to get it right he used quickfire 16% (or something) fuel. I put One tank of my 25% Byron in it and it was running like a different car! problem solved. They can be a pain just stick at it. I'm having problems with my Nitro as we speak, its a Kyosho GXR28se engine and they are well known to be a pain at the best of times.

Yerp it's a ts4N You can pick them up for next to nothing, is it worth the messing about with this model, or could your mate get another in better condition and you could use this one for spares? http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?rt=nc&Type=Vehicles&_nkw=thunder%20tiger%20ts4n&_dmpt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&_fln=1&_ssov=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282 Its another option?

nice little starter kit: http://www.nitro-rc.co.uk/radio-controlled-model/Schumacher_Nitro_Starter_Set.html And as for glow plugs you best nip to the nearest model shop and just see what they say OS plugs are good tho. Assuming you have got fuel, a plug and a glow starter. Remove the plug and stick it in the glow starter, make sure it glows up nice and bright, if not its shot and the car will never start. When a car is new the engine is set to run very rich in order for it to "run in" nicely. This stage of ownership can sometimes be a right pain and most people just give up and sell up or stick the car in the loft. When the car is rich it will often clog up with oil and stall, smoke like mad and generally be a pain to start and run. However after 5 or 6 tanks of slow running (or whatever the instructions recommend) you can start to lean the mixtures off and the car will become much happier to run. In all honesty the best thing to do is take a look on google, youtube and forums about the subject. Once it in your head you soon become able to do it all second nature. A inferred heat gun is recommended also to check the engine temperature when you start to tune it, I got this one off e bay and its great for just over a 10er: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Infrared-IR-Thermometer-Temperature-Laser-Gun-/300535306976?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item45f94cdae0 You need this as when you come to lean off the mixture the engine will run hotter, too lean and your engine will overheat and get damaged. I keep my engine around 180 degs but some run right up into the 200's. Hope this helps.

OS 8's (medium) Always do me well with the .28, most of the lads at the club use them. You can get them for around a 5er a go and are always available at most places.

I travel an hour to my "local" club, it's the closest to me

http://www.swindonmodelcarclub.co.uk/ http://www.centralbooking.org/cbs/index.php?option=com_cbs&task=cbs2clubs&Itemid=151

Ha ha Brilliant

All the Hypers are tough and great little car. Problem is IMO I feel it all becomes a little about fashion sometimes, about having the latest kit or most expensive sexy models. At club level, any "good brand" RTR or kit is just fine. Yes you will have some chaps running 300 quid motors and 700 quid chassis that are fast, but remember some guys have also have "all the gear and no idea" I run at club level a bashed out old inferno MP sport and it should really be "crap" on the track! its actually not that bad besides the shockers and engine its how it came out the RTR box over 3 years ago! I'm yet to break it whilst racing. My mate runs a hyper 7 RTR with a few upgrades and its just fine. Thing is, if you can drive well and smooth and can set a car up half decently you will find you will be racing with some the kids with the fancy kits and most probably beating them on regular occasions. However if you want to get serious about racing this is another level!.............. The better and faster you become and the more competitive the competition get, this is when the little things start to make a difference between a win or a third . I used to run 1/10th electric at competition level some years (shall we say) ago, I had a Yokomo YZ10 that was actually an ex yokomo worx car once used by a team driver, it was at the time one of the absolute best 1/10th 4WD electrics you could get. However it all comes at a huge price, I remember buying a carbon upper tray for £80, just because it was better and lighter than the original item, How much faster did it make me go??? well it looked good anyway At a very competitive racing level, in all honesty I can imagine your looking at having probably £1500-£2000 and beyond worth of kit with 1/8th nitro. With that amount of kit and quality, I doubt you would ever take it "bashing" I certainly did not with my old YZ10. At the end of the day its all about fun for money, so I think most of the cars mentioned in the thread are just fine, its all down to budget your skill level and how far you want to take it Have fun

Wow, hey I didnt even take it that way guys! It's all good It was worth it for the few mins of epic "whamp whamp whhhhhhaaaa......Pop" I think ill go down the line of offering a pro drag racing rc nitro engine porting service, extreme porting and ultimate results with zero reliability and a one run required rebuild!! just like the real thing! ha ha "if it runs for more than 10 seconds you ant ported it hard enough" What you think?

Get a large ally nitro fuel filter and use that, I'm about to try it myself, also stops exhaust snot going back into the tank. Youtube vid all about it.

Could be scratch built?

If I had loads on money Id be sure to have another crack at it

Yes I think I went a little too thin close to the ports, this material distintigrated and choped up the side of the piston, the material then all traveled down to the bottom end and mashed the crank bearing. Least thats what it looked like to me. Sorry no pictures its all in RC heaven now. What sort of prices is it to get engines worked?? What prices are we looking at please? Thanks

I thought id have a go at DIY porting on a Nitro engine after looking at many many threads and guides on the subject. Soooo, I had an old Kyosho GX.21 engine kicking about that I don't use anymore, it was a perfectly good engine but I was willing to take the risk of hurting it. I'm quite good with my hands and so forth so I god out the dremel and started to grind and polish on the engines sleeve. basically following the guide below: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5226191/tm.htm I spent about 3 hours to complete the work and it looked fantastic, I fitted the sleeve back into the block and built it back up and stuck it into the Inferno for a test run. I fired up the engine and I was completely amazed at the results, the engine was so crisp, sounded mint and the pick up was insane, its was a totally different engine and went like a cat with mustard on its hoop!!!! faster than my current kyosho GXR28 engine by far, I was soooo happy with my DIY porting Job .............................................Then it went bang, It ate itself, the piston disintegrated, spat bits into the bottom end so the crank bearing destroyed itself and brand new OS glow plug was down the drain. The only part of the engine that is salvageable is literally the carb. What was left of the piston has made a great Key ring tho! So the morel of the story is, if you have a spare engine you can afford to kill then by all means have a little go, its great fun and it might just work. But for the love of god don't have a go on your only engine if you cant afford a new one!!! ...........................................................................Leave it to the experts

My mate has a hyper 7 with the .28 Mach engine. Ready to run. Its a great car and parts are easy to get and very affordable and decent quality. The weak point IMO is the suspension but this can be upgraded no problem to the big bore items. Most clubs (at club level) will let you use a .28 engine so as long as its a RTR out the box setup. My club are great as it's basically unlimited in the "rallycross" races, I run an old inferno sport but run a .28 engine. But as ever a tuned expensive .21 will whoooooop the ass off most out the box .28 motors. Go for the Hyper 7 and you won't be disappointed. Or save a bit more money and get the Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR package, its up on another level price wise but its a great package and value for money.