kingscott

The boil method has not worked, my rimms are now a odd shade of yellow and the tyre is stuck fast!! Oh er!! Have to dye the wheels now!

Ok thanks Ill give it a try. (Id rather have it too closed than too far open on 1st fire)

Hi, sorry I'm not being clear, I understand how to set the gap and such no problems However What I'm trying to find is: Looking into the carb, do I set the gap 1mm with the insert fitted or with the insert not fitted? Cheers chaps.

Hi Yes, But a 1mm gap with the carb throat insert fitted, or before fitting? when I say insert I mean the venturi restriction insert. As there is a large difference. Cheers Adam

Fantastic, Many thanks for your reply's "put kettle on duck"

I had my carb in bits totally. then.................I have come to bench set the carb and I had a brain freeze! When setting the 1mm+/- idle stop gap, do you set this with your throat insert fitted or before you fit the insert? Just saves me revving the nuts out the engine from cold on 1st fire if I get this wrong. Many thanks

I have 4 or 5 sets of great wheels now with bald/shot tyres I am looking to replace the tyres only to save a few quid. Question is: How do you remove old well glued on tyres? is there a magic method or just a case of spending time with a craft knife? Its a shame just to throw the wheels/foams away when they are near perfect in condition! What are your thoughts? Cheers

I might just set the tickover at 15,000 RPM.......Problem solved

Yer it's all squilly meter perfect, ive just had the carb off for a quick clean too all looks well.

Yer my tuning skills are not too bad, I was also surprised at the minimal change in performance from the 16 t to the 14 t. Obviously the top end was slower but the pick up and mid was near as dam the same. I'm suspecting a carb leak at the moment, the cars taking some serious priming on the starter box and its not idling very happy. Ill get there in the end.........somehow!!! I'm pondering on going to 25% fuel rather than the current 20% so either way both of the engines will need a slight adjustment soon.

Just a word of warning. Yer these cars are super quick....... 80MPH is questionable but anyway. Unless you have a massive and very smooth area to run the car on then I really wouldn't go down this route, it will spend all its time in a box at home or back on Ebay. Trust me these things make the smoothest car park into a rally stage at the speed they go, the slightest stone/hole/ant and they literally fly....normally into the nearest immovable object Also remember .28's are not generally quicker than a .21 engine's and the .21's use loads less fuel for bonus extra drive time. Nutty cars for nutters! have fun!

Really? Interesting yet worrying mate! Update: Well I swapped the exhausts today and now I have a very dodgy transmitter/receiver issue with the car.(I dare not drive it as its a power fail not a signal fail) So I cant test until my new receiver arrives in the post. Fab times!!!

Im just getting back into racing hence the part second hand stuff plus the new engine

100 quid give or take a 5er for the RB exhaust system. ........................................................................

Hi Marty. Worryingly the engine already has a JP1 Pipe fitted? I've checked Jammin's web site and yes your correct in that they claim the JP1 pipe is good for bottom and mid punch. .................................................. After a bit of research the JP1 pipe should be a good match with my RB B9, the only thing I have not played with is the carb venturi sizes, but Ive always looked at these for race time/fuel usage rather than "tune". I'm sure this is not my issue I'm also going to count the main spur gear's teeth to make sure its not bigger than standard or anything daft. I'm sure the issue will be something silly ive overlooked. My other D8 fitted with the GO gx7r runs a 16t pinion on an RB exhaust, I can't express how much faster it is on pick up in comparison with the B9/JP1 combination, this to me just does not make sense?? Unless I'm underestimating the quality of the GO engine, that may I add I got very cheaply second hand! I for one cant fault it.

Out of interest the JP1 manifold is much longer than the RB manifold, however the JP pipe is stubby in comparison. A cut from RB's web page says the following: If you increase the length in between the manifold and pipe, the engine will get better low rpm power(more torque) but you will loose high rpm power(less rpm at full speed). If you decrease the length in between the manifold and pipe, the engine will get better high rpm power(more rpm at full speed) but you will loose low rpm power(less torque). So that sort of goes against the theory at first outside glance, but ill defo swap them over and see what happens.

Ha ha, at the mo I need a 10ft run up! .......and at that point she's going about........120MPH. Joking aside yes like you say the top end is crazy fast, too fast to use! I could quite cheerfully loose lots of the top end speed to get the bottom end punch right. I have an RB pipe fitted to my GO engine and a pit mate has a Picco. Ill swap them over and see what happens. Could be an expensive pipe selection mistake on my part, Thanks for your input mate much appreciated.

Hi Yer some interesting points, spesh regards the diff oil. The car runs for around 4 seconds on fuel pinch at the mo, I'm a little hesitant to go much leaner with it even tho like you say most of the work is done mid to top on the track. Funny because the guy I bought this D8 roller from in question (second hand) said the car was set up for "long track"!?! I wonder if he has played with the diff oils in some strange way. The car does not scrabble the front tho, Its just very smooth on pick up. Very strange, Ive not run this RB engine in any other chassis either so I have no comparison unfortunately. I suppose its a 10 min job to swap it all with the other D8 and see what happens.

Hi I have an RB B9 l2g engine fitted in my D8 as per: http://www.speedymodels.com/rb01009-b9---rb-concept-buggy-9-b9-l2g-21-engine-1618-p.asp I'm trying to get a little more acceleration out of the car as it tends to perform quite poorly on pick up/acceleration IMO. The engine is mechanically fine but beings this engine is supposed to be "top of the range" Its bottom end performance is quite frankly very tame indeed. My other D8 short track runs a less expensive GO.21 GX 7R engine but this is much MUCH faster on pick up. I've tried the following obvious changes with no real improvement: LSN tuning New carbon clutch and stronger springs. Fitted a 14t bell (rather than the original 16t I was running). I have not adjusted the HSN yet as I don't believe this will affect my problem, could I be wrong? Don't get me wrong the engine runs sweet as a nut and the top end speed is completely ballistic,however I'm just a little frustrated and disappointed that a 300 quid engine does not have the bottom end grunt I expect from it. I run 25% fuel with a Jammin JP 1 pipe, come to think I may swap this for the RB tuned one on the other engine to see if this changes the performance. The engine does not bog down or hesitate, it just revs up very smoothly and with no drama. I suppose in a way this is a good thing but its just not fast enough out the corners for what I like. Has anyone owned/own one of these engines? what does it perform like for you? Any other ideas why I'm getting this "strange" power delivery? Any ideas help or pointers would be great. Many thanks

I think the normal size is 125cc The part number you have may be off the hyper ST. I think these run a larger tank of 150cc? not sure on the fitments tho or this 250cc tank. Sounds rather large!

Found this on the net: http://www.rchobbies..._eng-tuning.htm Very good guide. However the section (as per below) on temperatures reminded me today why my RB b9 was running so poorly first thing this morning and needed a tune! as its last run was in the back end of summer!. WEATHER CONDITIONS It

Yes answer rc are good i use them all the time, best to e mail them for fittment. Also I would not bother with the 3 shoe conversion its not worth the messing for the difference. (sorry IT fail!!!)

.

.

Good luck mate them engine are an absolute pig!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Replace the carb LSN washers asap for non kyosho items (the standard items pass). Or save up and get a new engine. I cant express how bad I found that engine! I found I could not find a good tune, if I did it will lasted about 2 tanks, it ate plugs and stalled on roll over 5 times out of ten! terrible engine! But that could of just been me!