Big Dogg

I'm still up for a bash sometime. What RC do you have buddy?

I have at least one more so far interested in getting some bashes organised, so keep us posted about getting your car fixed. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Any bashing still happening in NI? I PM'd a few of you about meeting up for a bash before I discovered this thread. I've a Smartech Spider (Marder clone) and busting to get out for a bash with others. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Alright lad. Did you get any other interest from NI folk? I'm looking to get involved in a few bashes. I can PM you my contact details if you want to organise something. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

How long does delivery normally take? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Cheers for the advice. I knew the tyres would be chewed up when running in the car park, though I would normally run mine on grass, sand or dirt. I only had it at the carpark as there's one close to me to run the engine for a while and break it in. I've seen that site before, but was put off by the fact that it's in Germany. I'll probably order some stuff from them soon though. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

I was struggling to get her started again yesterday evening, so I looked up the factory needle settings and adjusted them. She started straight away with the choke off after this. I had to tune it a bit from there as the idle was very high, but after running it slowly for a few 10 min intervals and adjusting the needles, I now have it running pretty well It is a bit slower than the Mutilator, as I expected from 23cc engine vs 30cc engine, but the wheels don't spin half as much as the Mutilator, so it's a lot easier to handle and won't chew the tyres up. Though I have a spare 26cc Carson engine that I can put in the Spider if I ever crave the extra speed lol. Are there any decent places for buying wheels/tyres in the UK at reasonable prices? I don't imagine the stock tyres will last long if I take the Spider out to a carpark for a run. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Cheers for that Nitro... I'll try that with the carb later. I don't know how it could suck air in with the cover on the air filter, but I have the other air filter on it now anyway. I'll look into getting a HPI one soon. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Does the anti roll bar make much of a difference? I thought it would have made it worse because when one rear wheel lifts a little (say going over a rock or something), the other one lifts too. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

I tried a torx driver on it the other day because that worked for me in the past, but I can't get it to grip anywhere. I'll try a few different sizes of torx later. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

If it doesn't start or at least fire after a few pulls, I would usually stop because something probably isn't right lol. That's good to know about breaking in... That I can drive it, but only half throttle. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

After having my Marder clone (I think it's a Hobbypro Mutilator, thanks to MSUK members' help identifying it ) for a week or 2 now, I had been keeping my eye out for another largescale RC car in better condition than mine... Last night, I found a chap just up the road from me that used to own a model shop and he had a brand new, ex display Smartech Spider sitting in his garage. It didn't have a box, but it came with the large jiffy bag that contains the manual, few tools etc. I bought this off him at a great price and went down to my garage this evening to set it up, but I need help with a few things.. 1.) Air filter The air filter on Spider has a cover on it, but when you remove it, there is some sponge, but there is obviously something else supposed to be part of the filter. See pics below with cover on (first pic) and cover off (2nd pic). Should there be something else I should have got with the buggy for the air filter? I ended up just swapping the air filter off my Mutilator onto the Spider. The pic of this air filter is in pic 3. 2.) Choke The chap I bought my mutilator off told me that you push the choke switch down (perpendicular to the chassis) to activate the choke and you should keep the choke on until you hear the engine fire, then turn it off (parallel to the chassis) and the engine should start after this... This always worked on the Mutilator. However, from the manual I got with the Spider, it seems to be telling me the opposite. It says the choke is closed when it's perpendicular to the chassis and it's open when it's parallel to the chassis. Is it common that this would be reversed on some carbs/engines? The engine on the Mutilator is a 30cc 'Fuelie' engine and the Spider has a 23c 'G230RC' engine. I imagined they would all be the same? Then again, the manual with the Spider is a very poor translation from it's original language, so it could be that I'm understanding it wrong. 3.) Missing bar for suspension at the rear of the buggy My Mutilator has a little metal bar that runs from one suspension arm to the other at the rear of the buggy, but this is missing on the Spider. From looking at the exploded diagram in the manual, I don't think this bar is something that comes with the it, but should it be? See the pic below for the empty space where the bar would be 4.)Breaking in the engine Pretty much all of my nitro/petrol cars were bought 2nd hand, so I've never had to break an engine in. I'm aware of the process, but want to do it right. As mentioned previously, the manual is a crap translation into English, so I'm not 100% certain on how to go about this. Part of the issue is the position I need to keep the choke in, as I mentioned above. I'm the breaking in process has been covered elsewhere on the forum, but I couldn't find any good posts, so if you can link another post here, that'd be great. I started the engine earlier, but it was a bit difficult to start (as I expected with it being a new engine). I eventually got it started and let it run for a few minutes with no throttle input from me. There's only been maybe 1/8 tank of petrol through the engine. In a worst case scenario, I could swap the 30cc engine from my Mutilator into the Spider or even the spare 26cc Carson engine that I got with the Mutilator, but I didn't really want to start swapping engines etc. at this stage. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated. I can't wait to get her set up and running

I'll give that a go with the soldering iron. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

As title, I'm after the lid/cover that screws into the servo tray to protect the battery pack on a Smartech Spider. I imagine this would be the same lid as a Marder and the various Marder clones out there. Anyone have a spare one that they could part with? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

No, I said 'one bearing', not one way bearing lol. I'll check that link out. Thanks for the advice fellas. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

It's a Hong Nor Ultra LX2. It looks like its not the original engine in it, but that shouldn't matter for this. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

I'm guessing one bearing sits inside the bell, one sits outside (inside the teeth essentially) and the screw screws into the end of the shaft when it's all put together, but where do the little washers go? I'll check tomorrow if the end of the shaft is threaded or not. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

I picked up a cheap 1/8th Nitro buggy to have as a spare for any time the 1/5 baja buggy is out of action. It needs a pull start, which I'm hoping to pick up tomorrow, but the clutch bell is just resting over the clutch and shaft, there doesn't seem to be anything holding it on the shaft. Should there be a clip, washer or something that holds the clutch bell on the shaft? See the pics below:

Went to put the new grub screws in this evening and found that the M5x5 screws are slightly too big for the brake square. They seem to be slightly too wide and also possibly slightly too long. Would M4x4 be the next size down to try? One of the old grub screws is stuck in the brake square too.. I'm hoping a little WD40 will free it up a little before the head gets completely rounded when I try to get it out again tomorrow :/

I got some M5x5 grub screws in a local-ish model shop today. They're just standard hex heads. I'll try that trick with the locktite around the top of the screw, rather than along the threads. That tuning brake set looks the ticket, but will they definitely fit my clone (the current brake square hub is around 17mm and is a good bit longer than the square hub in that set)? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

I've started using hex drivers myself recently. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

So you reckon Hex are the better option? I always find hex round out very quickly :/ Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Yes, I have locktite here that will be going on the new screws. Will try to get torx head ones. Cheers Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

The brake square keeps coming loose now to and the heads on the grub screws are starting to round. Does anyone know what type/size of grub screws you need for the brake square so that I can buy some replacements? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

The little grub screw in the brake caliper shaft keeps coming loose on the buggy and I think the head on the screw is quite badly worn. What type of screw is this (just so I can buy a replacement) or is there an alternative to a grub screw that I could swap it with? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2