thesnake505
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Posts posted by thesnake505
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11 minutes ago, wombat said:
Hi @thesnake505, in what way is it killing the driveshafts ?, my mauler has the hsp diffs, traxxass rx, tx, and esc and the stock propshafts and never broken one, even when used with 2s
The only problem ive had was it kept destroying the osf axle end casing and steering hub, and bending the axle driveshaft, which was due to the super grippy deepwoods tyres on it. I fitted different tyres and have had no breakages since
so the originals the rear prop plastic outer shattered in to a million pieces.
The first set of after market ones sheard a pin in the cv joint and the 2nd set is Fastrax FTAX23 - Fastrax Axial Hd Universal Driveshafts (2) Honcho/Dingo ** CLEARANCE ** | Axial SCX10 Dingo Spares | Wheelspin Models
and the cv joint has fallen apart on these.,
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Evening all,
My lads mauler is killing center drive shafts, running stock with hsp diff gears, 1080 esc and a 2s lipo.
Stock shafts, after market ones none seem to last more then a pack or two. My lads only 7 and ita frustrating he can run it around the garden with out center shaft issues.
Does any one have any bullet proof shafts that will fit?
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As per title, I'm after a losi mrx 3100 brushed esc/reciver combo from a losi micro. The dsm version to work with a spektrum.
As above I'd take any spares or complete cars too
Cheers
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As above I'm after a pair of chassis plates for and old wild dagger project I want to convert back to standard
The chassis will fit the following
57727: RTR Mighty Bull
57729: RTR Over Lander
57825: RTR Blackfoot III
57839: RTR Mud Blaster II
57840: RTR Bush Devil II
58231: Wild Dagger
58309: Twin Detonator - TL01/TL01B Twin Motor
58312: Blackfoot Xtreme - WT-01
58366: Double Blaze
58396: Dualhunter
58498: Blackfoot III - WT-01
58514: Mud Blaster II - WT-01
58523: Bush Devil II - WT-01
58603: Volkswagen Amarok - WT01 Custom Lift
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6 hours ago, Steve-O2021 said:
> Plastic hinge pin holder at the bottom back of front diff HPI# (aluminium upgrade Vorza#67384 or HPI #101768
I find the stock plastic front pin holder keeps snapping every so often, is the Vorza part known as a good soution to stopping this?
Thanks
Absolutely, I have metal ones front and rear on both diffs. I'm actually tempted to see if I can replace the pins with bolts.
Here's my 13 year old resto mod (Niton to brushless conversion) which I have just finished
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On 18/02/2023 at 17:44, Bajadre said:
like tug said u will feel the heat on lipos a bit more in winter time brother as long as your gearing good and not pulling over amps will be fine 👍
whats your run time on 4500mah? should be about 15-20mins what i get out of mine general bashing etc bit less if doing full pelt speed runs on tarmac i also run 2 x3s 3000mah they last 10mins on full throttle runs
time wise id say 20 minutes each is about correct, plan on changing the gearing from 17tooh to 19tooh as I'm still experimenting, its got back of acceleration but runs out of puff quite quick. its also constantly scrabbling for grip. so hopefully a bigger pinion should give a little better top end.
cheers
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I have a axial ryft that I bought some gens ace harce case 3s lipos, 4500mah 40c. The ryft has a Spektrum Firma 130A esc. The batteries are fine in this truck temperatures are not excessive.
I have just relifed my trophy truggy 4.6 with a scream 1965kv and an 80 amp rage esc, I checked one of the hard case lipos in for the first test run and I'm massively impressed with the truck.
However when the lipo cut off kicked in the battery was much warmer, I don't want to say hot, but compared to the ryft it's much hotter.
By my calculations the gens ace are 180amp so should be fine in the truggy?
I also have some trunigy 5000mah 20-30c batteries which I calculate as 100amp, now these do not fit the ryft but I mounted the battery Box on the truggy to suit these batteries. Am I correct in saying they will be good for the truggy?
Cheers
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4 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:
Yes you bridge 1 of the y harness inputs basically with something like this
See I knew this, but it's so simple instated doubting my self.
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So I am resurrecting my told trophy truggy 4.6 with a brushless conversion, my new rage esc came today and it has a y harness on it.
While this may be a daft question, if I want to run it with a single battery do I just make a jumper cable for on of the inputs?
Cheers
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18 minutes ago, Bajadre said:
whats the spur size snake? i use between 15tooth upto 19tooth for speed on a 50 tooth spur etc
Not sure mate, standard 4.6 size 😄
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As per the title
I am resurrecting my trophy truggy 4.6 with a brushless conversion.
I have got my hands on a FluxRage 80amp Esc Scream 1965KV Brushless motor from ebay, I have the motor mount, however I'm after advice on pinion? I'm planning on using the nirto center diff (unsure if this matters)
Also a simple batter holder would be useful
Cheers
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52 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:
have you rebound it ?
maybe it needs the end points recalibrated
Unfortunately i have tried this.
There is no epa on the controller it came with.
I'm guessing the combined esc/reciver is dead.
It's just a pain that it works apart from reverse.
It's not the end of the world his birthday is coming up end if this month, and he wants 4ws so I have a new raido set and esc for his gift so we can set that up.
He will just have to make do until then unless any one had any ideas.
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Hay all,
My lad got a mauler for Christmas's, and he loves it. However today it's decided to only have forward.
It will no longer go in to reverse.
All the controller trims done effect it. Is there any thing else it could be?
Cheers
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Any one have an adjustable front steering arm? I reckon the car would benefit from an ammout of tow in on the front end.
Much say this car is the best fun I've had in a long time. Absolutely love the ryft,
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morning all, Im looking at a small not crap RC Car for my 7 Year old lad to bash around the house.
He has an FTX Mauler he is getting the hang of but that's been banned from the house my SHMBO due to how filthy it is.
with his birthday coming up i have been thinking about the FTX Hooligan JNR are they any good, is there any mods that can be done to them, what's the battery life like?
cheers
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17 hours ago, GeoffDa said:
So, I'm running mine on 2s or 3s, and climbing rocks with some enthusiasm!
What is the collective wisdom on filling the Differentials with 2million cst oil*.
*Nominally oil, it looks very thick!
After several uses on mine i have ended up locking both the center and rear diff and have 500000 cst oil in the front, its a much better truck for it.
cheers
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So today i added a power hd servo, its from my 4ws maverick scout, its sister servo died and I had this one lying around. The difference is night and day coupled with the new servo saver.
It has magnified how give the tyre have in their side wall. A gentle reminder this truck is not for high speed bashing.
Does any one have dimensions for beef tubes at all? Wanting to make some if possible??
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Good morning all
I have a question on noisy gear box's
since I had the Ryft i have noticed the gear box is very noisy, I stripped out the motor and gear box, and the noise is coming from the mesh between the spur gear and the main gear, i couldn't get them to mesh any better so i added some Teflon grease and carried on.
a couple of packs later and the noise is back.
its only off load, if I i am using the truck its all seems fine. is this usual or should I pull the box again and re inspect?
on an separate not I'm tempted to lock the rear diff and only have the front as it is.
cheers
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On 14/01/2023 at 14:57, Hell horn. said:
Stock servo and servo saver are pants. Only 15kg torque in the servo and a week saver. Upgrade them as soon as you can. And the stock bent rod ends snap easy. Replace with the straight ones. Buy a back or 2. You will need them.
So replace the front link, only have spare bent ones so used what I had. I have ordered some straight.
However the rears have loads and loads of slop in them, it's obvious the eye is ovaled.
Is it worth sticking aluminium arms on? Or will this cause other issues?
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4 hours ago, Hell horn. said:
Stock servo and servo saver are pants. Only 15kg torque in the servo and a week saver. Upgrade them as soon as you can. And the stock bent rod ends snap easy. Replace with the straight ones. Buy a back or 2. You will need them.
What cheapish servos do people recommend?
Also I guess what servo saver?
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Quick video of the accident that ended it all.
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So picked some 3s batteries up yesterday which are awesome.
Took the truck out for a bash at a local national Trust place called carding Mill Valley.
Love the truck it's a blast, need to lower the center of gravity however.
I think the stock servo saver has died on me because under minor bind the servo can go lock to lock with out moving the wheels. I have an lst one the way though.
Also broke a front link on the arm.
Can't wait to get this fixed and back out. Its such a blast.
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Kinda embarrassing, took the ryft out today up in too the woods with my lad and his ftx mauler.
He asked what all the knobs and switch did on the spektrum controller, it was then I found the throttle limiter switch 🤣🤣🤣🤣
So much more fun with 100% throttle.
One of my 2s lipos however had balloned while in use, so that's destin for the scrap heap.
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43 minutes ago, Hell horn. said:
I have the same and they do fit but very tight.
The telemetry won't work without using the silly priced spektrum lipos.
As for wheels. Go for ones 35mm wide and running slow hubs. Then get the SSD ryft hubs from rcbitz. Sorted.
gota ask whats a slow hub?
Wanted losi micro crawler esc/reciver, or complete car?
in Wanted
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