CHUNKERLUV

After a mini 8ight...must be in good nick and come with electrics, not bothered about Tx & Rx. Cheers

More likely its leaking from the plug you have to tighten std plugs down hard because as they get hot the fit gets worse

JP4, JP2's a fuel guzzler and has a narrow band the JP4 is much smoother and easier to control.

Bought this by mistake

XQ power 4020 steering and 4013 throttle/break from sds hobby . net be the best

if there is no shims and its tight you'll have to extend the crank by using a losi tophat or something similar. sometime you can use a countersunk screw in the end of the crank to give you about 1mm of play.

O.S.8 is a short plug...everyone man and his dog runs them but they are short so you're not getting the most from the engine by running them...to check take the head-button off your engine and see that it is not flush the effect can be tuned out but its not how they were supposed to run. odonnell do a good normal plug that is the right length I think its an OD75 or 77.

These are cracking servos not had one fail in 2years I race in all weathers both buggy and truggy http://www.sdshobby.com/xq-power-20kg575g-digital-servo-xqs4020d-with-titanium-gearaluminum-case-p-2621.html

Just buy one !!! If your a new racer engine isn't important... learning to get your car round the track without crashing and set-up come way before needing the best engine infact unless you can repeatedly put your car round a track for 5-6mins with no crashes!!! an engine will not affect your results.

Sounds to me that either the fuel system delivery has a air leak or your needles are drifting. Put a little ptfe tape round the LSN and HSN and replace. Then remove tank and lines blow one pipe block the other if you can blow find the hole (lid or pipe) and repair it. The front bearing shouldn't leak as such the crank and case form the seal for an engine not the bearing one way to test an engine leak is block exhaust port and carb using fingers / thumbs, then suck and blow a piece of pipe attached to the inlet if you can see the carb barrel opening and closing like a little trombone the engines sealed and sealed well !!!! Both fuel and pressure lines should be 6 inches

New Alpha Dragon...or if you don't want to spend that much fastrax enduro is a very good starter engine.

try again www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=4461

IMO yellow Mini pins are the most aggressive tyre on dry astro and you will grip roll more...thats why we take 3 rows inner and outer off the front and 2 rows I&O off the rear. If you're grip rolling its probably due to set-up...you need stiffer springs, heavier oils, thicker roll bars, lower your ride height and decrease your droop. Then there still alot more you can do around camber and roll centre but that'll tame it a bit...have a look at this this is the RC set-up bible. fourth one down on the "hudy set up book" http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=1281&Xnet_Session=544c160ba17822c6bfcb22539ceb5d25

Personally I'd say it loading up with fuel...any engine does it...lean the bottom end a bit and drop the idle gap but then you run the risk of running too lean. Does it perform well ? I wouldn't worry about it...its and rc car not a 1:1 if it don't idle for ages its no biggy.

Years ago I put a axial.28 (tuned correctly) in a lightning (trophy) buggy it was over geared at 16tooth and didn't run...be careful gearing up your temps will go through the roof.