nitro james

I'm not trying to prove anyone wrong or anything mate, just saying like. Can you just use normal oil? Like that 2 in 1 stuff etc?

Not what you asked for, but these are handy as a back-up. I keep one in my flight-box just in case. http://www.airtekhobbies.com/glowstartone.html

This dude can explain it better than me, I know this is about bikes, but the it can translate over to engines:- http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/

I don't know anywhere in Suderland, but my advice is early sunday mornings in carparks/industrial estates. Not a chav in site:D

WD40 isn't oil. It's a solvent. It'll break oil down. So your engine will run dry, metal on metal, until the oil in the fuel gets through it. Never use WD40 as a lubricant, no matter what it says on the tin.

Thats a very good idea! Do that before you start fannying about witht the setup as I said.

Makes no difference if it's in a plane boat or car. Fail safes designed for cars cut the throttle, fails safes designed for planes do what you programme them to do.

Goes on a bit.....

You sure about trespassing and signs? How many of you have signs up at your house saying private property?

I know, you could put a child in that! It's strange that they don't even mention what the van is.

Have a look at this> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Radio-Controlled-Half-Scale-Christen-Eagle-Van-/280574670642?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item41538db732

Each channel equals one function. So a 4 ch radio has 4 functions (on the sticks) and a 6 ch radio has 6 functions, 4 on the sticks and 2 switches. The first 4 are proportional, where as anymore will be on/off.

I know that sounds stupid, but it sounds like you have too much grip. I imagine that the old servo was straighting out under power and so the car wasn't turning as sharp. But the new, more powerful servo, is holding it's line under power, the cars gripping too much and the only way to release that power/g-force is to flip the car. Have a look at this for some tips:- (i didn't write this by the way, i got it from here http://www.rccartips.com/index.html) Shock Oil Use heavier oil in hot weather and lighter oil in warm weather. If your rc touring car is understeering, try lighter oil at the front. If car is rolling excessively, try using heavier oil at the rear. Coil Springs If understeering, use softer springs at the front. If oversteering, use harder springs at the front. Shock Position For high speed tracks, place shock absorbers to a more horizontal position. For technical tracks, place shock absorber in a more vertical or upright position. Front Stabilizer or Anti Roll Bar This will reduce the side grip of the front end. It will reduce chassis roll and may result in understeer. Rear Stabilizer or Anti Roll Bar This will reduce the side grip of the rear end and reduce chassis role. Increasing front track-width will result in more understeer, while decreasing it will result in less understeer and faster steering response. In general, more suspension travel (less downstop) makes the car more responsive but less stable. It is also better on a bumpy track. Decreasing the ride-height (lowering the car) gives you more grip. However, because of changes in suspension geometry and decreasing ground clearance, there are also negative consequences to doing this. In general, more negative camber means increased grip. Nevertheless, it should always be adjusted such that the front tires wear flat, while the rear tires should wear slightly conical to the inside. Toe-in is used to stabilize the car. In the case of oversteer (the rear end losing traction before the front), adding extra rear toe- in may help, but this makes on-power cornering a little more difficult. If the car is too stable and pushing (understeering), removing some front toe-in will remedy this. Anti-roll bars are used to adjust the car's side- raction. In general, increasing the hardness of an anti-roll bar on one particular axle decreases the side-traction of that axle and increases the side- traction of the other axle. For example, if you make the front anti-roll bar harder, you decrease the side-traction of the front and increase the side-traction of the rear. This will result in less steering (more understeer). Changing the front anti-roll bar has more effect on turning-in (entering a turn, decelerating, off-power). Changing the rear anti-roll bar has more effect on powering-out (exiting a turn, accelerating, on-power).