ansmann1

i would run the first tank with wheels on ground at idle speed then from second tank start about 1/4 throttle gradually increase throttle with each tank. once you get to fifth tank you can blip the throttle

you need to start over agian with the set up. set both needles back to factory settings then take off air filter look down carb and set trim so that there is a 1mm gap. you then need to turn in the idle screw. once you get it started if it cuts out turn in the idle screw until you can get it ti tick over for over 15 seconds. you can then retune but make sure you run the car to warm up the engine. start tuning the hsn by turning in the screw 1/16 of a turn and doing high speed runs until either there is no more improvement or the car lean bogs and then turn back 1/8 turn, then start on the lsn. again make sure engine is warmed up let car stand for abut 5 to 10 seconds and then wide open throttle it (wot) you should see good acceleration. keep leaning out the lsn until there is no improvement in acceleration or the car lean bogs. then turn back 1/16 of a turn. you can also do the pinch test where you nip the tube leading to the carb the engine should run for about 4 seconds and then die if the engine is tuned correctly. hope this helps

honest m8 just cut the back plate or file it out its not a bodge but it is the best way of doing it

tbh m8 it will propably cost you at least

i had sme problem with my hyper 7 i used the standard hyper 7 mounts. i cut out the engine mount plate at the back where the pullstart fits so that it lies level . this solved the problem by the way i put an lrp z21r engine in mine and it goes like stink

thats a

the carb needs to be adjusted by throttle trim so that its about 1mm gap not the idle screw. if this works and the car is then running forward turn your idle screw down. also if you get it started and it ticks over try applying the brakes if it then cuts out youidle screw needs to be turned in

about 2 gallons

isee where you are coming from however the liner and piston are in good condition however i think the bearing has gone in the engine as i can hear a click when it reaches tdc could this also cause lack of compression. also when i mange to get the engine runnig it is making an awful whine

start the engine warm it up and then see if it will tick over for more than 15 seconds. if it does not screw in the idle screw a bit then try again . once it will tick over for more than 15 seconds observe what happens to the engine. does the nengine rpm gradually get lower and then cut out if so this could mean that the lsn is too rich lean it out 1/16 of a turn at at time (clockwise) if when you staert it it ticks over then the rpm starts to rise this could mean that the lsn is to lean richen it up by turning the lsn anti clockwise 1/16 at a time, this should solve your problem

i have the lrp z21r in my hyper is very fast and has loads of torque

[quote name='Ruhel

ive got the lrp z21r in my hyper and its fast

ok took the engine to lms where i got it from. the guy reckons this would not cause no compression as the flaw is not all the way through. the liner sits on top and he reckons it is not affected. however the shimwas also not sitting properly so i tapped the shim flat lightly with a hammer to flatten the edge rebuilt the engine and still no compression. holding flywheel the engine just flops forward. have tested for leaks from around the head backplate and carb using the soapy water test. there definitely does not appear to be a leak anywhere anyone got any other ideas

lol came apart easy though

must disagree and i have put them side by side, for starters the virus has big bore 16mm shocks the hyper has 14mm ones. the fixings for the tank go right through the chassis on the virus wheras on the hyper they do not. dont get me wrong there are certain things i like about the hyper as well

if your thinking of racing you cannot use more than a 21 engine why dont you try a better 21 engine i have an lrp z21r in my hyper and it goes like stink power output is 2.12hp as opposed to a force 21 which has 1.9hp pico are also good and alpha f850 are supposed to be good

firstly i have a virus 2 and also a hyper 7 i like both but the virus is easier to work on/ the engine in the virus is actually a force engine/ the servos in most rtrs are crap

as stated very good buggy

my ansmann virus 2 cut out the other day at full throttle. i took the engine out and it seemed to have no compression. engine had been run in properly and had aro in after every run. i thought it was the piston and sleeve needing to be repinched but then thought i havnt had it that long. stripped down the engine and this is what i saw liner and piston seemed ok The i saw this disater i think will this affect the compression it is on the crank case where the liner fits into also when i took the backplate off and tried to remove conrod these two items fell out. any ideas please

thanks

can someone please tell me how to post images from my camera

much obliged will try this however havnt got electric hob but will put in electric oven what temp do yiou think

much obliged m8 will try it and let you know how i get on