Ralph

23 is the stock pinion, smallest you can use on standard spur is 21

well thank god for that cos i ordered mine today. i welnt for te 17kgcm torque one as it was only 2 quid more than the 9kgcm and i thought it would be a bit stronger.

cheers guys, thought as much but had to be sure. will get the Power HD one i linked to as seams good value. thanks again 8~)

hi, very basic question this but one i've never had to ask so dont know the answer. will any standard size non digital servo work with my acoms techniplus 27am Transmitter and Receiver? my standard servo is shot and i'm looking at getting this to replace it http://modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=ShowSpecification&ItemID=35546 cheers for the help

looks good in the main doesnt it?! I've run mine for 2 hours on a 19t brushed setup and 8.4v and managed to brake the front lower arm and slightly bend the pin by crashing it into my mates bandit wheel to wheel lol. at the same time i lossed a spring cup and drive shaft show botched it back together as 3 wheel drive and then the rear diff broke. shattered one of the metal gears but i'm sending it back as it must have had a defect. the plastic spur should go before the diff!! its worth buying a second as spares...cheapest option...and a half decent brushless should be good too 8) have fun 8) ps...be VERY careful not to strip the threads as its very easy to do. oh and locktite is very usefull

I'm only running a 19 turn brushed motor lol, think i was just unlucky to get a bad diff. Modelsport have requested i send the diff back for them to replace it so i will and i'll be buying a second one for spare parts as it aint strong so bits will brake and a diff is

Hi all, yesturday my mate came round with his 1/16 revo and bandit and we went bashing on the airfield and i took my carson stormracer. i've only just bought the darn thing and fitted rubber sealed bearings before i ever ran it. its running about a 19t brused motor on 8.4v NiMh so aint quick at all and within 5 mins had a problem (i've used it for about 2 hrs max). as you can see from the pic one of the metal gears in the rear diff has broken apart so i have e-mailed modelsport to see what they are going to do about it, this is definatly a manufacturing defect and shoud be done under warrenty! i await their response. any comments on this guys and gals?

i'm pretty sure that would kill the fan lol. haha yes it does look factory finish now

Right thanks for your help everyone i've got it sorted now. Took the cover off the ESC and soldered the power supply lead to the board. just tested it and the ESC still works so i aint blown it lol and i get 5V through my power supply lead so bonus that work. Fans on order so final test will be some bashing and see if too much current is drawn and burns out the ESC though i very much doubt that will happen lol. Thanks again all

cheers GingGangGooly didn't know thats how they worked. with my ESC it supplies the power so the bat socket is free but does not supply power out for anything. its ok now anyway i'm going to solder a power supply (with female connector) onto the ESC for the 5v out and i've got a heat sink with fan on the way.

i've got the carson stormracer and in standard form with the bushes you cant fully tighten the wheel nuts as it locks up so you have to run them slightly lose which puts excess bending strain on the threaded part of the drive shaft which can and will break. i got 10 of each bearing size from rcbearings (rubber sealed type) and replaced all the bushes and the 3 metal sealed bearings and she runs nice and smooth with the wheel nuts fully tightened. definately do this job ASAP!!

With everythinig plugged in, switched on and power supplied i tested all the pins with the multimeter and got zip. I've had this radio gear, ESC and motor for years but hasnt been used that much apart from recently and hated the limitations of the touring car so got the

Unfortunately my reciever is the really old naff acoms that doesnt deliver power out for a fan. I tested it with the multimeter to check and got zip

WOW very fast reply. Thanks thats a great help and I was thinking abou pulling the cover off and soldering direct to the connections on the board as opposed to the wires. I'll check what stuff i've got to do this with now and get the fan and bits on order cheers

Hi all just after a bit of info on how the ESC gets its signal from the receiver and delivers power to the receiver. I've got an LRP F1 Reverse Digital ESC with 3 wires going to the one connector to deliver power to the receiver and carry the signal from the receiver. I tested it with the multimeter and the black and red wires deliver the 5V to the reciever so is it just the one remaining white wire that carries the signal to the ESC or does the red and black also carry the signal?? I'd like to know the answer because my 2 channel Acoms AR201 27 MHz AM receiver does not appear to send power down the battery connection to power a fan and i wonderd if i could splice into the ESC 5V output. Cheers for your help Ralph