Paul_TDi

So all the time I've had petrol the fuel lines have been conected in correctly, madness. I ordered some DarkSoul connectors last night from freepawn including new fuel lines and a carb rebuild kit just incase, also treated myself to a SUH steering wheel grip.

Can't beat the old dremel slot trick. There's a few bolts on my baja with a slot now.

Is it just the 990 which runs inlet/outlet this way? Ever since I have had the baja the inlet was running to the top nipple on the 668 carb originally. I've looked through pics of when it first arrived to me in the box. And the car ran for a few hours with the hoses the wrong way round at a bash not with the snappy fuel line kit though. I guess this is why the car was go sluggish!?

I sold my nitro MT when I got petrol as it's so much easier. I'd be temped to get an electric something for some really easy play time but then there's the expense of buying batteries and chargers. The short of it is you can fill up a petrol cars tank before you leave, take the wheel wrench couple of allen keys and a small screwdriver and thats all you need for at least an hours fun. Nitro you take filler bottle, main fuel bottle, box of tools, box of spares and then pray you get an hours fun out of it.

Well aren't I the class A muppet! I think that explains why it ran so poo last time I had it going. I had to loosen the tank lid this time round to bleed the air out of the prime bulb as with the air trapped in it started forcing the fuel past the nipple.

Carb in question is a walbro 990, fitted it few months ago ran it a couple of times then car was put to sleep for a few months while I mustered the courage to go into the cold garage. Rebuilt everything and thought I was ready to restart and tune only to find the carb would not prime, pressed the primer bulb plenty with no action. If I tip the car on it's nose so the return hose is in fuel and press the primer bulb fuel works through the carb but backwards, in through the return hose and out through the intake hose. It has a snappy RC fuel line kit on which i have just replaced the breather on and a DDM alloy fuel tank cap which has the hole sealed and a couple of orings in for a good seal, the tank does not leak when I tip the car on it's side. The hose with the intake filter on goes to the top of the carb and the fuel line which only just goes into the tank goes to the bottom of the carb. I've stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the carb. Carb was brand new a few months ago. Help me!

Few updated pics, haven't run it in ages as had some running issues after installing some new goodies so stripped it down to replace some parts and sat like that on the bench for a few months. FInally got it back together and tuned up the yamadude linkage which was the main issue last time. DDM fuel cap with hole sealed and a couple of o rings fitted for a good seal, also Phat Fan fan brace chucked on for good measure TR rear brace, Vertigo bearing carrier and TR brake brace Quick vid from the last running/tuning session

Just logged onto Abbotts to get a few things and luckily I looked at there home page as they have a 10% going on, on everything! Thought I'd give ya'll a heads up. All details on there homepage.

Pretty sure the TR top plate is fully installed as nothing was lining up as first then realised it wasn't on the lugs at all, but then knocked it down with a hammer and the diff lug is bolted tight to the top plate so the diff and top plate are all completely straight. Right oh I'll chuck it together then maybe just run it on the bench and see how it all flows after 5 mins, I need to tune the carb on the bench anyways. Thanks all.

Well definitely 17/57 and everything is turning true so don't understand what could put it so off as surely if something is bent then it would be tight for half a turn and correct/loose for half a turn. I've fitted a 55 spur with the 17 pinion and that meshes nicely if I little slack so think I need to run my gearing a little different from the norm. I just need 18/56 gearing then can toy about with the mesh properly.

Clutch plate? The bit that bolts onto the crank that the clutch shoes bolt onto? Or the clutch bell holder? I think I better get counting teeth as everything seems to spin true.

I've been rebuilding my baja and the mesh of the pinion and spur are ridiculously tight. Pretty sure gearing is 17\57. The ugraded parts in that area are Vertigo vented clutch bell, integy clutch bell carrier, vertigo spur gear bearing carrier, TR top plate and brake brace, TR quick diff gear box. The mesh is now so tight that i have the turn the spur as I put the 2 together, it won't just slide in. Any ideas?

I thought by replying in this thread after using the search function my related issue would be answered but everyone just answered the original issue. I think I have answered my own question though and need an o ring for the tank lid and need to block the breather hole. Any one know what size o ring I need for the fuel cap?

I bought a 2nd hand snappy fuel line kit which I have fitted, but didn't come with anything for the tank cap. From what I understand I thought the whole point of the fuel kit was to eliminate the fuel leaking out the fuel cap? Also when running today the above clicked that there may be an issue as it revved high then went idle and almost stalled, is this linked the tank venting? or it could be that I still need to tune it.

Oh bugga! We got crossed wires then as thats the bit I meant in our original PM's.

arghhhh can't believe the TR 1 piece brake is in there, thought Ben had bought it? Free bump, my package is waiting for me at the post office.

Clone dom relisted, ending tomorrow.

bump, last day on auctions tomorrow.

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Low is 1 1/2 turns High is 1 1/4 If you go on Youtube and search HPI baja tuning video, HPI themselves have a really good video with basic tuning in it, I look at it every time I need a refresher course. I have a vertigo standard fitment clutch bell, very happy with it, I did the reverse bolt mod on that too.

No interest on here so alll slapped on ebay in a few lots Here clone dom on there too now.

Just a touch of grass left over.. shot of the new carb and ADA insulator block (starting the red theme!) Loving my new Model Logic race pipe or AKA Bartolone (i think) Makes a much better noise than the dom clone, lower pitch and bit boomerer, still very good power too. and lastly the bones with the replacement allen key pin...

Haha no worries, gotta try your luck! Cars all up and running again apart from after running at the weekend discovered the head gasket was knackered ran fine for a while but once up to temp then just stalled and wouldn't restart until it has cooled down, there was a fresh flow of fuel down the back of the engine from the seal. Annoyingly my FLM driveshafts lost a pin within the first 10 minutes as apparently I didn't use enough loctite on the grub screws, but with an old allen key and TraxxasMaxx's good cutters she was up and running again in no time! Got home to realize I had ordered the wrong replacement pins for the bones, any want a FLM CVD repair kit? But rather than spend a fiver on 2 pins I bought pack of 10 steel dowel pins off ebay. Also got a new set of wheels on the way, mini MX's and dirt buster fronts are pants on wet grass! Need to give my brake a tweak too as that was a bit sloppy. Pics of new exhaust coming soon!

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going up.