lorrylemming
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Posts posted by lorrylemming
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After sitting at the bench for bit I've decided to do a super stretch mod to my traxxas rustler 2wd. Simple affair with some ali stock extending the main chassis plate. Inspired by this build from The JANG many years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNGptgxrhFI
Currently I'm thinking of buying a 1/10th scale or 1/8th scale roll cage, probably from a crawler and then fabbing some lexan pieces to create a bonnet and nose. Aiming to look like a tamiya wild one or HPI Baja. Does anyone have any suggestions for a donor car that has an ideal roll cage?-
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I know you said 4wd but I would buy this if I had £250 to spend. Or I would save an extra £50 for the MT10.
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https://www.rccaraction.com/brushless-motors-turns-vs-kv-rating/
This site has a rough conversion between turns and kv but its not exact. I'd also look at an additional fan for the motor if you're going to run an entire pack at a time rather than 5 minute races. With 4WD the car will create quite some heat and a buggy shell doesn't let air through for cooling. This is the part with a fan mount for the 74.1, not sure if it fits the previous model.
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My suggestions for a budget electronics set.
ESC:https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored-425021
Motors:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/speed-passion-1-10-competition-mmm-series-45r-bl-motor-407412
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/core-rc-star-fixed-timing-motor-105t-1345031
4.5t will be very quick, 8.5t or 10.5t will be more sensible.
Batteries:
I have three 10bl120s, all working well. I also run one of the surpass motors and a few CNHL batteries, again pleased with them.
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Interested to get your thoughts on this. I love the look but most of the reviews online are either the paid kind or from people who seem a little too tamiya if you know what I mean.
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I was thinking of picking up a bodyshell from these for my XT2 but looking at the prices I'll probably just buy a whole truck.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/search/bodyshells?&sort=Relevance&search=gorgon
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Hi All, I've got a vintage buggy I want to get moving but I'm struggling to work out what the cheapest way to do it is regarding electronics.
I own:
- Tx and Rx
- Servo
- HPI firebolt 15t motor
My options are either buy an ESC for the 15t motor or buy a ESC and motor combo. Does anyone have any reccomendations for an ESC that can power a 15t motor or if any of the cheap combo ESC and motors on Ebay are any good? It seems even a HW1040, 1060 and 1080 all aren't enough for the 15t motor which is quite annoying. The Traxxas XL5 is but its more expensive than some combos.
Thanks.
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Misread the spec. I think a 1060 will be fine on 2S. Is that correct? -
Wheels sold for the 22x4 buggy should fit, see here. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/wheels-tyres-9960/wheels-996015/tlr
I'd then add whatever tyre you fancy, schumacher venoms are a decent rear tyre, not sure what to suggest on the front.
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If these can handle a 2S or maybe even 3S system without any transmission upgrades they'll make a great car. The Arrma 1/10th 4wd mega models are a bit of a false ecomony with the cheaper transmission compared to the BLX models.
EDIT:
I wonder if a SCT version is coming with those extra mount holes for nerf bars maybe?
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Bit of a weird one but a Traxxas skateboard. I'm honestly not sure its a licensed product as there's no trademark symbol or similar. The graphic also doesn't really match any Traxxas buggy more than say an RC10 or Ultima to my eyes. Regardless it'll make a fun wall decoration for £14 delivered.
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The HD parts on this look a nice inclusion, shame about the servo and shocks.
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https://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/
This site has loads of setups for different surfaces. Scroll down to carpet and then choose one that looks similar to your track. In the top right of the sheets there is some track information. This one from Yasir should be a good baseline for any UK indoor carpet track.
https://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2x3.1_YasirMughal_TORCH20221016/
For your other thread, the manual shows the sero drag link with 0mm space between the ball cups, so build it like that. The angle of the servo horn relative to the chassis doesn't matter, its the angle relative to the drag link thats important. If you still think something is wrong you may need to space your servo forward or back or use a different horn. Page 19 of manual shows the spacers.
https://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2_Manual.pdf
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I would not preorder that, the website only has renders. No pictures of the actual product or a prototype.
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Replaced the worn drive pins with some fresh ones on my RC8B3.1e. Managed it without a dedicated tool in the end. UK monster don't sell them any more and all the others are daft money. I used a bike chain tool and a bench vice instead. Not actually too difficult, I would recommend trying this to anyone before buying a new driveshaft.
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20 hours ago, BashingBrian said:
@lorrylemming Now that DR1S looks like my kind of crazy, a 2s-6s 1/10 scale. touring/drag car..!!
May I ask, have you used that shop before ??
I've used speedrc for small parts with no problems. I don't own an Xpress kit but at a previous club I raced they were quite popular and seemed comparable to all the other touring car brands.
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If you have anywhere to run an onroad car these are quite good value.
1/10 high power touring and drag racing car, heavy duty transmission for more power
https://speedrc.co.uk/dragnalo-dr1s-1-10-4wd-ep-high-power-touring-car/
Shaft touring car with floating transmission, might be an interesting build
https://speedrc.co.uk/arrow-at1s-1-10-shaft-drive-sport-touring-car-in-stock/
M size 4wd racer
https://speedrc.co.uk/xm1s-m-chassis-4-wheel-drive-competition-touring-car/
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Quite interested to see the chassis on this. The YZ2 which its based on has an aluminium chassis but this is plastic.
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Hi David. This sounds like quite an interesting idea. In the past I have used a spreadsheet and pdf setup sheets to record how I setup my race buggies. There is also this website and app which digitises setup sheets. https://www.sodialed.com/. I think the most interesting part of what you're describing is being able to create historical log of past setup and performance.
If you could tie the following information together and make it searchable/filterable that would be of interest.
- Event attended
- Result
- Run performance (speed/time/finishing postion)
- Setup used
- Tyre type and tyre wear
- Weather
That way if I go back to a track after a few months I could look up what I used last time I was there and review how well it worked. I could also look back over a summer of racing and see what changes I made.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8p-OS4nEBA
This is the most detailed video I've seen although its a bit "artistic".
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Looks great, everyone knows racing stripes bring more speed.
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On 30/01/2023 at 19:34, Skiprat1977 said:
Do you know of a beetle body that'd fit? 🙂
This might fit, might be too long.
https://www.phatbodies.co.uk/product/funkenblitz-coming-very-soon
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5 hours ago, champ222 said:
Ok, apparently the fastrax tyres weigh around 190 - 200g for a pair in the packet @lorrylemming are you able to confirm this by weighing a wheel for me? The Standard LC racing truggy tyres weigh 120g a pair in the packet.
I have some LC truggy wheels with schumacher venom tyres on that weigh 76g each (no packaging), and its fine with those. So double that (152g) and add a bit for a bag (5-10g maybe if it also has a card label), and we probably arent that far off. Outer diameter seems about the same. Offset is a mystery as usual but it seems like they will stick out more than the standard ones.
What do we think guys? Will they be worth a try? if so, Jigsaw or stinger?
I'll try to weigh them tomorrow, here's a video of them on a 1/10th buggy to give an idea of size. They are definitely heavier than my 2.2 Schumacher wheels are tyres.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZPjXa3gxWA
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I've got the stingers on my HBX. A little wider offset but they should fit your truggy. The Jigsaws look more offroad specific where as the stingers will also do tarmac without wearing out too fast.
I've used these on soft dirt and they were great but do wear quickly.
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This thread has lots of good information. I've posted a few things in there that I've done to my Flyhal FC600, which the same car under a different name.
Low Battery (Voltage) alarm Recommendation
in Marine
Posted
Both of those batteries should be recoverable. Put them on a 0.5amp balance charge and then check the internal resistance, page 23 of the T100 manual. Depending on the pack size it should be below 10 milliohms per cell.
For the lipo alarm, the generic ones from ebay are pretty good, the main issue is the balance lead can pop off so make sure you secure the wiring.