Smoothybb
-
Posts
4,205 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Prizes
MSUK-Forum - RC Model News and Community
Articles
Events
Posts posted by Smoothybb
-
-
38 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:
If i were you? I'd get a few Imax B6 AC/DC chargers, done. They're like £20 on the usual webpages, get two (or four), plug them into the wall and be done with it. 80W is sufficient for most stuff, and at £20 a pop they don't break the bank. This also leads to batteries being balanced individually, unlike what you're trying to do where the charger is trying to balance a big 12s.....
That's the approach I've taken and like the flexibility it gives. I started with x1 b6 when I bought my first plane, I now have x2 b6 and x2 overlanders. I only currently go up to 4s but with planes, cars, quads and boats all having different batteries, it means I can charge whatever I'm going to need simultaneously on a different charger.
-
1
-
-
Search for rotostart on fleabay and you get all sorts of options. Depending on the age of your hyper engine (cops or not), this is a full kit
-
Yes, the rotastart backplate just fits in place of the pull start housing. You can either buy the full kit including backplate, shaft and driver, or backplate and shaft to use with a drill.
-
Good luck, it's definitely worth tinkering with, it's all part of the hobby, the main thing is to keep thinking calm thoughts or you'll end launching it like I do...
In the past, I've ended up with the pull cord not recoiling completely and rather than take it apart again, a length of fuel tube round the cord can help stop the handle flapping around. 👍
-
1
-
-
Buy a new one!
As you've found, they can be repaired but even if you capture the spring locator, find a way to keep it in place then sort the actual pull chord, ime they're never the same. They can be sorted but by eck them springs are sharp!
-
1
-
-
My bad, but you put ist and that isn't a connector type. 😉
-
It looks like the 1.25 3p jst/molex I've used in the past for fpv.
-
Very nice. What a vista while flying the p2k!
-
1
-
-
16 minutes ago, Gampla said:
Your the one who brought up f1 formula 1 isn't I the same class or league as a stupid plastic car doesn't matter if they both use central nut F1 WHEELS AND TYRES ARE BALANCED AND TORQUED TO A HUB WITH ADJUSTABLE CAMBER TOE WHERE AS A RC WHEEL IS INJECTED FORMED WITH IMPERFECTION AS FOR TYRES AND ANYTHING F1 CARS HAVE VERY TIGHT TOLERANCE TO MEET FIA SPECS RC DONT NEED TO MEET ANY SORT OF TOLERANCE
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
That's very shouty. I hope your keyboard survived. 👍
-
1
-
-
Just now, Gampla said:
So whats the difference between these two then
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
Are being deliberately obtuse?
You've made countless false statements and yet continue to double down with more irrelevance.
-
1 hour ago, Gampla said:
They have to have some wobble as the nut is Center not like a motor vehicle which is spread out 4x100/105 ect
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
4 minutes ago, Gampla said:F1 cars have lots of adjustments unlike a stock rc which has 1/2
But then you can't compare a vehicle to a rc car that will be like comparing a £1m to a £500 car
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
25 minutes ago, Gampla said:Because they are balanced and torqued onto the hub like most motor vehicles but even still they have tyre wobble
Sent from my G8341 using TapatalkLet me make this clear as you seem to be missing the point.
You stated that because rc's use a central nut, there will always be wheel wobble. This is incorrect. The shaft, the drive seat, the wheel, the tyres, all of these will have an effect but you cannot say that by default, a central nut causes wheel wobble.
-
17 minutes ago, Gampla said:
Because they are balanced and torqued onto the hub like most motor vehicles but even still they have tyre wobble
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
Right, so nothing to do with the central nut then.
-
Just now, Gampla said:
If it bothers you then https://www.makeitbuildit.co.uk/fastrax-tyre-truer-19699?gclid=CjwKCAjwtNf6BRAwEiwAkt6UQpfXOZIaX0QcXn-cIi1G7clnfYsyNEc_sLYdfsWuNuWzdPbJPZc2EBoCuuYQAvD_BwE
My tt02 ****s 40mph still runs straight
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
If what bothers me? I've literally just said I only have a problem with the mad bull and that's got shafts and wheels on order to sort it.
Like I say, if you're happy with a sloppy setup, crack on, it's your model, I'm just saying you don't have to accept it just because it's a central nut. I'm pretty sure F1 cars only use a single central nut but the components seat properly.
-
7 minutes ago, Gampla said:
Even my tt02 has wobble and I torque the nut down it has full adjustable front and rear plus I said some wobble,
You also gotta remember a stock rc car cant change camber or toe
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
I'm talking about wheel wobble, not tyres being out of alignment, slop in the steering etc. Even on 4s my car park bashers would be horrible if the wheels wobbled.
Maybe I've just got lucky on mine but my wheels fit the shaft they're designed to. All my hypers run true with a central nut. My mad bull doesn't run true and it's having parts replaced to make it right.
I guess on something dog slow it doesn't matter so people just accept it.
-
7 minutes ago, Gampla said:
They have to have some wobble as the nut is Center not like a motor vehicle which is spread out 4x100/105 ect
Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
That's not true. If the wheel is correctly seated and all parts compatible, there's no reason to have wheel wobble on an rc.
-
The article I've just read states it needs to be paired with a capable dc power supply. So looks like you need a separate ac to dc unit.
-
I think I can get a turnigy 4000mah block Lipo into the battery tray if I cut the top out of the plastic 'loop'. I want a spare part to practice on though!
-
1 hour ago, gunja99 said:
Lol, and I'[m just using 3000mAh 7.2V NiMah! Not found the 2S's that'll fit the bay yet.... grrr... Need to make an order this week, so will try again to get the right kind of Lipo to fit the stick format...
Good luck, I think you need in tamiya style to fit but it's a limited choice.
I have some 4000mah 3s batts from an old quad, never been used. I think I'm going buy replacements parts for bull so I can modify them to fit big oblong lipos.
-
1 hour ago, gunja99 said:
Nice, those steering rods look good, might look at that for both cars. Do you know what length Shocks you got on it, I've read that 75 front, and 90 rear is what to get, or maybe 100 on the back? Slightly confusing on that. BTW the steering servo if a little out of alignment (in neutral), so might switch that. As I say it actually seemed to run better without that shock in place, lol!
The fleabay seller said mine were 76mm fronts, they seem okay so far. Not sure what hyper 7 rears are.
I had it out yesterday and found nothing has improved the horrendous snaking when reversing, everything is just too loose currently. Tempted to take my shocks off, see if that helps! 😁
Need a new rod from servo to bell crank as well, that bent first crash.
Final thoughts, maybe 3s and 10.5t motor is a bit much for this model. The front wheels spend too much time in the air when accelerating! 🤔
-
7 minutes ago, Ag100 said:
Is this suitable for charging 4s?, it mentions upto 6s, and has been fine for my 2&3s batteries.
It charges my 4s fine. Not the speediest but happily does the job.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, gunja99 said:
What were you saying about the front shock?
So, how I know whats compatible? Bizarrely was just thinking whilst bashing it around the streering, really needs sorting, and new shocks would be grand. TBH it drove better once the shock broke! Hah!
Also what can be done about the steering rods? Think the servo out of align on the front too, the whole front is very lose anyways. So will get oil shocks, new motor, and some new steering rods
Yep same as mine, although the araldite repair lasted a decade!
I went with 76mm front shocks, from a ts4n according to the fleabay seller. For now I've whacked hyper 7 rears on the back but am yet to test properly.
As for the steering, everything is loose, no precision at all. The rod from servo to bellcrank can be improved with heat shrink but I replaced mine completely before I realised I had the servo the wrong way round. I've also added heat shrink to the pushrods which has helped a bit. I intend to replace the cheese ones with these when I can be bothered to measure properly https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Servo-Steering-Linkage-Pull-Rod-for-1-10-Scale-RC-Car-SCX10-90046-TRX4-D90-Parts/283817919841?hash=item4214ddc561:g:0TUAAOSwVoJecIj2
I'm yet to see if any of the improvements will stop the horrendous snaking when trying to reverse!
-
Good old nitro, I don't miss it! Still got a couple but the fuel is probably 3yrs old so not much good.
That has to be one of the lesser problems if you've had nitro for a while. Our dining room table stills shows scars from when I introduced it to nitro fuel and the garage wall still has tyre marks from a runaway! 😁
FYI, safer to block the carb to stop the engine, slightly better than kinking the fuel line. Both methods avoid burnage!
-
I'd guess at a Toymate RX8.
I think you'll struggle to get spares, given the manufacturer no longer lists it.
I would suggest your only option is to contact Toymate and ask if they can supply a Steering Adjuster assembly or words to that effect.
-
That looks like a rtr toy, which normally makes it trickier to get spares. It appears the steering trim assembly is completely missing. Was there a white plastic adjuster there previously?
If you share the model details, it will make things easier.
COVID-19 Track & Trace
in The Lounge
Posted
As I understand it, name and number is all you have to give.