Savage_Smithy

Only issue I have is that the suspected break point seems to be just where the wire goes into the casing which means id have to cut and solder on the inside. Seems like the only way short of buying the "repair kit" from the US Got an iron, good solder and cable on order but the motor seems to work fine now i guess until the connection breaks again. Can i wait it out until i get annoyed with it or can a sudden disconnecttion while running like that kill the motor/esc? Also i'm not sure if this applies to this motor but i read somewhere that castle coats the wires in something that just wont tin properly, is this true or was it false information? thanks for the replies Smithy

Looks to be soldered straight through to one of the windings then heatshrinked, is reoldering them easy to do without causing more lasting damage? Presumably I need a pretty strong soldering iron to do it without killing anything else?

I got a 1717 recently and I'm not sure if it was like this when i got it but it seemed fine. There seems to be an intermittent connection to the white wire where it connects for a while but after some harsh movement the motor cuts out until i push the white wire down with my hand. There is no damage to the insulation but i think the internal cores may be damaged. I opened the back to see if there was damage inside but it all looks fine, the wire continues in and connects to the windings. the only sign i can see of anything is some deformation on the wire where it enters the casing any suggestions and can these wire be replaced easilyish? thanks smithy

so I got my 1717 and ezrun 150A pro today and i'm a little stuck on gearing, I'm currently running 16/45 with standard muggy diffs and its awesome on 6s. now i know the rules are generally: hot esc + cold motor + hot battery = over geared cold esc + hot motor + cold battery = under geared warm everything = just right. but I can't tell which i'm closer to as my situation seems to be cool esc + 65c motor and warm to the touch batteries. so is that ungeared and slightly lower spec batteries or is it about right? also anybody else running a muggy with a 1717 what gearing do you use? Thanks smithy

Yeah I saw it, thanks for the heads up though!

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if you split i may be interested in the motor

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okay new issue Took it out for a 6s run in the dry this time and the wheelies and low end power seem better but are still what i would expect it to do with less cells. the problem is that it started to cut out after some full throttle passes, or ti would stop and then when it got going again the power would be pretty much non existent and it would move at walking pace at full throttle. It did this until i restarted the esc then it was back to normal for a few passes and then it repeated the fault. The next fault is that it started to cut out just from turning the servo which i would have thought was a servo/bec issue if it wasnt for the other fault. though the servo is a little broken so that may still be a seperate issue. EDIT: this fault was the servo, the bec in the esc just didnt provide enough power to burn it out, when i tested the servo using a 6v hump pack in the receiver instead of the esc it burned out one of the drive chips? FETs? It was my fault because i damaged the servo motor trying to tear it down and it hasnt been right since. Could an over drained BEC cause the other issue? The motor temps crept up to about 65c but the esc was only just warm touch as was the exhausted air from it.

show off!

thanks for the replies, the motor i have is a leopard 4282 2000kv which i'm pretty sure is just a 4082 2000kv with cooling fins. the thing is, i dont always want to run 6s i'd rather have something that is good on 4s but pretty much pointless on 6s if you get what i mean. I want usable and stupid. will see how i get on with swapping the pinion over and changing the diff oils since nobody seems to be selling a 1717 at the moment thanks smithy

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well, mount came and it lives, I have a few issues though 1: being that on 4s it is pretty pedestrian; no wheelies, no real top end, pretty boring and the motor stays around 30-35c with a 16t pinion 2: the steering is eratic, it torque steers left when i apply power and a slight touch of steering and it ends up over steering wildly 3: 6s seems better, wheelies, and good low down power but for 6s still seems like its lacking top end speed ( probably a touch faster than its nitro days) with the motor being around 50-60c after a full pack of constant stop start so my thoughts are that on 4s if its under geared it should have more low end power and if its over geared then it should be running hotter but ultimately reach a higher top speed eventually, it seems to do neither. gonna try changing the diff oils to what was recommended as i haven't got round to that yet and see if it helps also im looking for a 1717 or something of that nature to power it instead. Just incase anyone wants a look:

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the noise is still there with or without the gears installed which i guess means i need to go further but I cant figure out how to get any deeper into the servo, there are 2 screws that hold the motor into the top plate but removing them doesnt seem to free anything up.

liquid tape on the board shouldn't cause this, I know this much at the very least. my best theory so far is that i dislodged something when pulling it apart but cant think what and i was unable to fully strip the servo, has anybody done a stripdown on one of these to replace a motor or something along those lines who would mind telling me how you got it "that" apart? just so i can rebuild it properly and see if that helps i can live with the noise if it cant be helped but of course id rather it be back to normal thanks, smithy

Not really, I mean maybe i could but im not sure i trust it to not rip components off the board rendering the servo quiet but useless

hi, I have a 1256tg and recently stripped it down to liquid tape the board, now though it makes a reeeeaaaallllly loud "screaming" noise when it moves at any reasonable speed. It doesn't seem to have lost any of its torque or have any other issues but the noise is truly deafening. Here is a video that truly does not do the noise justice but should show the issue: anybody any ideas? thanks, smithy

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As title says, looking for a sirius/castle 1717 motor or basically any oversized overpowered monster that will run off a 150A esc suitable for a Mugg-E Thanks, smithy