sea118

i have one on my 645mg, and it fits perfect

im definately coming now, dad wants to get up at 8am and we could be there for half 9 but ill try n make him get up earlier and be there as early as poss if you lot go down to the skate park then someones gunner have to come back to show me the way when we get there if i get there early enough i will probz have a blast at the bmx track have a shot at the double

futaba 2pl great system then buy a more torquey servo for steering, all done for under £100. what you looking to spend?

rockets arent dear... well - fireworks arent but theyre all the same just dont buy them dodgy chinese ones or we will have 3rd degree burns lol! rofl

slap your HDD in then it could be that my mums pc is higher spec than mine but takes about 3days to start up cos she has an old 30gig hdd

i just told you irrc = if i remember correctly

i is made it for you init mayte http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?show...c=22221&hl=

IIRC if i remember correctly have fun with the saw mate lol

they mount onto the chassis IIRC. and them rocker arms are gunner clash when you push the front end down me thinks nice mod tho, looking cool

had some chips n gravy earlier from the chippy, got a chicklin korma and chips on the way soon too... yummy yummy for my tummy

hi, and welcome to Jazzy Josh's nitro setup guide (lol!) when you open the box of your brand spankling new car, or even second hand, theres a few things to check over. one thing being the throttle/brake servo setup and linkages and the steering setup, which i will cover in here after all, you dont wanna start it up just to watch it run off. firstly, you need to turn all of your electrics on (plug batteries into rx, all servo's and switches etc) and set all your trims (on digital radio's, the sub trims too) to zero. this way all of you servo's will be centred properly and should function the same in each direction, also providing more adjustability in each direction should you need it. now you can turn them back off and put them on charge if you wish. The Steering Set-up: from factory if its an rtr car all the camber and toe-in's should be set properly. so: firstly, take the servo horn off the servo (the servo horn is the plastic arm that goes ontop of the servo, secured by a screw). to do this unscrew the screw holding it in place, then use a thin flat head screw-driver to prize it off (with a hint of finesse to avoid damageing anything) with the horn removed, you need to centre your wheels by eye, just point them straight forward so your car will drive in a straight line. it doesnt need to be perfect just now, you can always adjust it whilst driving via your trims. now, place the servo horn back onto the servo, into the nearest spline (shouldnt need force) so you may have to have your wheels facing slightly left or right so you can fit the horn back on (this isnt a problem, dont worry). now replace the screw to secure the horn back in place, you dont want it to pop off during driving and lose all steering whilst flat out at 40mph, do you? The Throttle and Brake linkages: before i begin, it is important you set up the carb settings first, before setting up the brakes. if you do the brakes first, you may end up with the brakes binding at idle, and a prematurely worn clutch or other issues. Carb - first things first, take the air filter off and use your hand to close the carb manually (by tiwsting the servo horn in the appropriate direction). take note of how much your carb closes (look down the air filter hole, there should be a shiny slidy thing which moves accross when you twist the throttle servo horn in a direction (to apply the brakes and then the opposite way). when closing your carb, it should be only 1mm open, give or take .5mm in each direction. to check this if you aren't sure, use something with a similar diameter and put it in the hole as a rough measurement. if your carb closes fully, or not enough - refer to your manual to find the idle adjustment screw. unscrew this to make the carb close more at idle, and screw this in to make the carb close less at idle. (when you start your car and get it upto heat you may need to adjust this slightly to prevent it cutting out or being too high) click for larger (sorry about quality) Linkages - Connected to your throttle servo horn, there should be 2 or more linkages. one to open/close the carb and one to apply/relieve the brakes. Start with taking off the servo horn. as mentioned in the first step of the steering set-up. now, to make adjustability easier and improve brake/throttle responsness. use a spring and a stopper on the carb side of the servo horn(spring = S, stopper = A), on the linkage which goes to the carb. just remove the linkage from the servo horn and then slip the stopper (A) on first, then the spring (S) and back on with the horn, another small spring (not in pics, but between the stopper B and the servo horn and for reference sake wil be referred to as C) and finally another stopper (. spring S is so that when you apply the brakes, the spring compresses and allows the brakes to be applied, otherwise its like pushing an immoveable object (there wont be any movement available when the carb's closed, so you could break something) spring C is so when you open the throttle, your servo cannot stress the carb and servo and try to open the carb too far, as it will compress the spring instead. this is good for non digital radios when you cannot adjust the EPA (End Point Adjustment). now, put the servo horn back on the servo onto the nearest splines so that spring S is slightly compressed and closing the carb fully, now you may have to adjust stoper A so its closer to the servo horn but with a slight gap (if you have a spring there you still need a slight gap btween where spring C would be and the servo horn), or when you apply throttle it will take a while to get to that stopper so it can open the carb if its too far away. now for your brakes: on the break linkage(s) you dont have to use a spring, but if you want slightly more responsive and progressive brakes then you can put a spring on the linkage between the horn and stopper D so that when you apply the brakes it compresses the spring slightly, then when you apply the brake fully the spring is fully compressed and the wheels lock up or are very hard to move and slow the car down quickly. nothing is needed on the other side of the linkage, apart from where it attatches to the brake cam. there should be a slight gap between stopper D and the horn (or if a spring is there you need a slight gap between the spring and the horn too) otherwise your brakes will bind at idle, causing you to think the idle is low enough to stop the car moving when actually its the brakes that are applied because of being set up wrongly. picture with stopper/spring labels: click for larger image (sorry bout qual, the phones a bit naff) you may have to click to view in full size to read the text now your steering should be set up with lots of adjustability, and your throttle should be set up so that it returns to idle properly and the brakes dont bind - but is easily adjustable and very responsive. and you should have eliminated the possibilty of the engine cutting out when braking. when you are driving your car, you can use the trim to adjust your steering if it doesnt roll in a straight line. also use the throttle trim to adjust the throttle servo, if it isnt returning to idle properly. if it is returning to idle properly but is cutting out at idle, or is idleing too high adjust the idle screw so that it does idle correctly, and then adjust your throttle trim to suit or it may end up not closing the carb fully or be trying to close it too far and applying too much stress, and when the brakes are applied spring S will not be able to compress enough to allow for braking. Any Qs, mistakes or more tips fire away

you need more control onroad Ben, its less forgiving slightly too much power or a bit too much steer and you've span out and lost rush's antiqee... dream on itd just be classed as really old, and itll be broke most likely rofl

screw it in slightly. about 1/8th im gunner make a guide about setting brakes and linkages up i think

roto's and the likes dont give you the feel for an engine, whether its flooded etc. and they are for lazy people use som elbow grease. theres someone on maxbashing who fixes them with a lifetime guarantee for a fiver plus postage each way. dont know the link, ill find it when i have a minute. also to do up a rush evo, not worth it tbh. theyre going down soon, will be obsolete. buy a new car. onroad racing - pretty boring if you ask me. you are limited to places to drive and even when you find a place its boring, no jumps or anything. best off with onroad if you are really going to race competitively - other than that its pretty dull.

supposed to be funny or something? what am i missing? enjoy your freebie monster, i wish id have one given to me lol

you need a spring and a stopper on the carb side of the linkage, so when you brake the spring compresses. alkso turn up your idle screw to stop it cutting off.

dont it have threaded shocks and gear covers? im talking lst2 not lst1

he sold it ages ago keep up Jimmy

duals or more? like my res is 1280*2048

put a couple of shims on the shaft between the clutch bell and screw, leave around 1mm play or things may get a bit hot cos of friction make sure its meshed properly with the spur though, in terms of where it meets the actual teeth on the bell, you want it in the middle - so you may have to put a few washers behind the collet to move it along slightly to get the right meshing, or move the engine its self a bit further down the mounts if they are separate from the plate like on hypers

the car would spin out and need a very sensitive trigger finger round a track and i reckon that would be with normal nitro and normal geraing, theyre pretty quick

was watching these on hpi's site. look pretty rapid but only about 50mph http://hpieurope.com/show_video.php?videoID=103

^^lol!!^^ whats needed on LST2s from stock? ive heard something to do with the engine brace, turnbuckles and get an FOC. does the FOC just remove the reverse but keep the hi/lo ranges?

could be a built in earth? got any pics?

selling it then?