200sx

No bind at full droop or full compression only at the centre part of movement.

Is it normal for the driveshafts to bind when level?

There's some serious play in the rear hubs of my gtb, around 5

What are the dimensions of the crush tubes people are using? Specifically the width?

What are the dimensions of the crush tubes people are using? Specifically the width?

First outing with the gtb went well. I was running 2nd in the 4wd A final until the front shock tower snapped. Carbon tower ordered. How do you adjust the servo saver? It was looser than I'd like but turning the (very stiff) collar does nothing as far as I can tell.

My GTB is ready for the maiden run tomorrow night. It would seem these little motors don't have any timing built in which is strange. I wonder what the original application for them was. A small amount of timing on the esc and cogging is none existent

Thanks for the replies

Anyone? It's an RW racing 0.5mod

What size driver do I need for the pinion grub screw? It's certainly smaller than my 1.5mm

Thanks for the replies. I've ordered an 18t RW 0.5mod pinion and a PowerHD 3688 servo (I use these in my mardave and although plastic geared they are really tough)

I've just bought a GTB and have a few questions I hope someone can answer: Is a pinion supplied in the kit? if not then what pinion is recommended for the Carisma 4500kv motor? What is a good servo to go for? I'd prefer one that fits the standard mount.

Is there a benefit going from the 35a to the 60a esc? If I spec up the 13t to a 60a combo from RCEcho it comes in about

Thanks for the reply. Can I be sure they won't sell me a fake ezrun? I notice they sell a leopard rc motor and esc combo that looks remarkably similar to the ezrun/etronix combos. Is the leopard a good alternative to the more popular brands?

Afternoon all, I want to buy an ezrun combo for my Tamiya M05. I've settled on either the 12t or 13t combo with the 35a esc. Where is the best place to buy one? I've heard that fake ezrun combos are out there.

I thought I'd update anyone who was interested in this thread. I bought the GT tuned motor and my brother went for the sport tuned. I compared the two motors back to back in the same chassis and here are my findings. The GT tuned has much faster acceleration. It reaches top speed half way down the straight, the sport tuned reaches top speed just before the end of the straight. The GT tuned beats the sport tuned on top speed, I'd guess by at least 10%. Two other guys were racing saturn 20t motors. The GT tuned is smoother with better acceleration and a higher top speed. Compared to 15t firebolt, the GT tuned accelerated much much quicker. But I think the firebolt have been over geared. Everyone was using the 20 tooth pinion.

I've decided it's a toss up between the following Tamiya Sport tuned motor 53068

Evening all I'm really having difficulty in setting the rebound of some Tamiya super mini CVA shocks. Regardless of where I set the piston before screwing on the cap, I get full 100% rebound! Any tips?

Wouldn't a 15t be too much in a swb fwd m05?

Is that the Ansmann one? I was considering a Tamiya sport tuned but they are really pricey for a sealed can. I'd rather have a rebuildable motor for that sort of money. How would the kenjo compare to a sport tuned?

Thanks for your suggestion but at

Evening all I want to upgrade from the standard kit motor, an RS540SH, to something a little faster. I'm running an mtroniks auto sport tuned 20 esc. Club rules allow for any motor, no restrictions. Funds are tight so the cheaper the better, but must be reliable. I'm happy with the acceleration the silver can gives me but want maybe 5mph more top end.

Thanks for your replay Garry! Ordered and on it's way

I want to replace the Mini Cooper body shell on my M-05 and can't believe how much Tamiya shells cost! Will the HPI Honda Civic Type R shell fit the M-05? It's part number is HPI 7216

Evening all I've finished building my M05. Thanks for the advice on my previous thread. I'm giving my brother a hand on building his. I fitted super mini CVA shocks to mine, I never even looked at the kit ones, until now! They are spring only, not even friction damped! Anyway, I've got some friction dampers from my old Alfa 155 TL-01 that seem to be a good match to the M05 kit damper length. I would like to lower the ride height somewhat and have read the following on rc-mini.net "Just lob some spacers (fuel tubing or 'o' rings are fine) on the shock shaft to get around 5mm or so in total. Then assemble the shock as per instructions but cut the rubber tube to about 8mm for both ends. Yes, the shock shaft with the spacers fits INSIDE the black rubber tube, INSIDE the shock body. Make sure to lubricate the inner of the black rubber tube." I've got some nitro fuel tubing and some new Tamiya rubber tubing, uncut, but I cannot see how the above will reduce the ride height??? Why cut the tubing shorter than stock if the 'spacer' is to fit 'inside' it? I don't get it? Can someone offer any advice before I start cutting? Many thanks Ian.