Nitroholic
-
Posts
17,664 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
115
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Prizes
MSUK-Forum - RC Model News and Community
Articles
Events
Posts posted by Nitroholic
-
-
If you are swapping to a steel spur gear.... check what pinion you have.
Brass ones are fine on plastic, but won;t last long on a steel spur.
Shouldn't damage the motor, not if you are keeping hte same gearing anyway. Plastic spur gears are less tolerant of poor mesh...but can also die due to grit and dirt ingress. I had a Losi Mini 8ight that routinely killed spurs. The chassis did not fo a good job of keepng small stones and grit out, and the partial cover was very good at keeping them IN! Mesh it carefully and it should be fine.
Mesh too tight, and a plastic one will strip, but a steel one wont...thats where the trouble happens. Usually in the form of failed motor or gearbox bearings.
-
2
-
-
LOL .... you post a vid of a 6S run .... which is barely driveable and balloons the tyres and crashes in a straight line. Not an 8S one.
Exactly the point I was making. You stated you want a RTR truck as you have a load of projects you are working on. You want to build something like that...it's your money. But it's not a RTR.
Which is what you started the thread about. The truck in the vid has an 8S capable ESC, which is not stock and neither is the motor.And if you do want to overpower a truck and then not use the power you added......well. Sorry...that makes no sense whatsoever.
At the very least, I expect to be able to hit full throttle and still be in control whenever I wish.
Just bear in mind...the advice I gave was based on your question......and in that you put 'The two that interest me the most, the HPI Savage X Flux V2......'AFTER my post you put:
It's the HPI Savage XL Flux V2 GTXL-6 that I'm seriously considering, not the HPI Savage X Flux V2
.....-
1
-
-
Seen a Savage run on 8S .... took the guy months to get it able to hold together for a whole bash......and it sucked up the money. When it did drive, it was impossible to use the power.
It's for armchair pilots to tell their mates 'Mines running 8S .... ' when it's usually not running at all.
The Savage is an old design, originally intended for a .21 nitro motor. It's handling doesn't need or want 8S, it's driveline is marginal on 6S, and it will just end up broken. Which isn;t very much fun.
I found that out the hard way trying to put a 4082 motor in a Hyper truggy. Melted diffs, ripped tyres apart and it could crash in a straight line as it would lift the front end violently if it hit a bump under power, and end up flipping.
The end result is simply not worth the trouble. You'd have more fun running on 4S.
-
1
-
-
Threre is no safe way to bring a dead cell back to life.
The NiMh charging method isn't exactly safe, as it can work...or it can stress the cell to the point of a small fire, but it can tease a pack up enough for the charger to let you charge it. You need to know what you are doing to try it.
If your cell is reading absolutely zero voltage...it's possible what has happened is a failure of the soldering, rather than the pack. If you are checking voltage via the balance lead, it may have come loose. A broken wire would read zero voltage. IF you check voltage across the pack as a whole, what do you get? You should get around 11.2 volts.
You could try carefully peeling back the outer shrink wrap covering on the pack, and having a look at the soldered connections there. Basically...I assume you cannot charge your pack as the charger reads too low and won't let you charge at all. A broken connection could be resoldered if you have to tools and feel confident enough to do it.
-
2
-
-
Also.... check that the thing actually was at the base settings .....
I have had new engines set at all sorts of random settings, so while it ought to be set correctly for starting break in, there is no guarantee it actually was.
-
How long is you're piece of string .....
I don;t know what spur you have now, what pinion or what your diff reduction is. Gearing is something you need to work out from anumber of variables.
-
1
-
-
You are on the edge of specs for the ESC, and as long as you were just using 2S Lipo, it should be able to take it. Just NOT if it's geared wrong.
Your car is geared for a brushed silver can basic motor running on NiMh .....
The chances of being able to go that far away from stock on motor/ESC and NOT have to change the gearing are pretty small.
There are some overall reduction ratios suggested on the Hobbywing website for the ESC you had.
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/quicrun-10bl120-esc?variant=2139725987868
Shows how much the ratio changed from a 23T motor....to a 6.5T motor. You have gone further than that. Needs a much lower geared setup or your motor pulls too many amps, and the ESC smokes.
Geared correctly, your motor should probably pull around 50A tops, and should work well with a 120A ESC. But you have to gear it right.
-
3
-
-
The blue springs look better. White was fine when the wheels were white...but looked out of place after. Blend in better now.
And I am sure the lad will love a Lunchbox.
Another RC that is BADLY in need of some serious modding!
-
1
-
-
It would increase the speed...probably...but you are trading power for torque here. You would need to find gearing compromises to keep things cool and usable, which erodes some of the benefits. I had a 1/10 on road with a 4.5T motor. It was really quick. But that was on smooth flat surfaces. It was slow off the line, but really got some speed up when it got rolling.
Changing the gearing would give speed at the expense of acceleration.
Really, going faster means adding more power.
-
Car looks good 🙂
I think you have just experienced the classic 'upgrade' issue. Metal parts can be stronger, but plastic parts can flex and spring back while metal ones bend. You can also find that impacts get transferred through to the next weakest part when you beef up one bit. But..if that was a high altitude smack onto the nose on a hard surface..it actually held up pretty well.
The ally uprights could still work ( after a good hammering to straighten them ) but I would look at some way of fitting a bumper or similar to absorb an impact like that again.
-
1
-
-
Himoto stuff is rebranded under a large number of different names for different markets, but it can be tricky pinning down exactly which is which.
I am pretty sure Ros has nailed the ID. The motor could be an upgrade as it looks a little larger. The ESC certainly is. Probably why the rear diff let go. The poor thing looks to have had a hard life, judging by the dirt and corrosion.
-
I higher amp ESC will make no difference at all to the cogging issue you have. Would be surprised if it fitted under the shell, but as you are buying it for another project....thats no matter.
If swapping the ESC fixes it, then your previous ESC was faulty. Which may itself help you.Whatever, your gearing needs sorting....and if you run it with the motor angled like it is, it will chew the spur gear up in no time at all. You need the full surface of the gear teeth taking the load. At an angle, you are losing a lot of contact area, multiplying the load on the area left. Which will probably strip it. If it's not possible to get the motor straight....then you should just fit a smaller motor that does fit, or find a way to make it fit.
Welcome to the world of modding RC cars. It's seldom as simple as just bolting in things and going out and enjoying it. There are usually loads of issues and tweaking to get it set up and working right.
You may also find other areas of the car have issues once you have the motor geared, meshed and set up correctly.
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Quite like the shell, really don;t like the fake rollbars on the window stickers ....
I see they have taken the same approach most of the BMW drivers I see around town, and removed the indicators. No point in cluttering up the car with something you never use 😉
-
6
-
Really not worth it.
The Force .36 went through a period of iffy QC with a run of blown cranks, but if you get a good one they are fine. Just not that powerful. Plenty of torque....but in a Trophy, you won;t notice the benefit. It will, however, drink the fuel a lot faster.If you want to go for more speed, get a good .28 ( the stock HPI option is OK, but its a cooking RTR motor, so not in a high state of tune ) like the LRP Spec4 ... or if you really want a bit more of the ole 'cubes' ... go for the LRP .32. Botrh will give you a big chunk more power than your stock motor, and more than the big 5.9 engine. Plus they won;t empty the tank quite so fast.
-
Nothing really wrong with the stock shocks.
If you are thinking of upgrading, just fit better quality units.
People swap out the odd wheel nut setup HPI use as it doesn;t dop a good job, and the rather small nut can easily end up chewed and rounded. 'normal' 17mm hexes, as fitted to just about everything else, work better. Same goes for teh 3 shoe clutch. You get better drive and pickup.
For shocks, HPI used to do a set of bigt bore shocks. Haven;t seen any stock for a while though. 97mm fronts, 112mm rears. Threaded adjusters. Big bores give more oil content, so the damping doesn;t fade as fast, giveing more predicatable response. Quality > quantity
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Anyone want to sub me £1000 ......
-
4
-
Easy for me ....
It's overpriced, but pretty. I just love proper solid axle monster trucks, and this is the most true to the real thing RC. Gives me some money left over....which would go on either
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/kyosho-turbo-scorpion-2wd-kit-405386
or this
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/kyosho-beetle-2014-2wd-buggy-kit-388495
It's easy spending money like this, and far less painful than having to actually find it.
-
1
-
2
-
-
KV is no way to judge speed. All KV tells you is unloaded motor revolutions per volt.
If you run a 2000KV motor on 6s ..... and compare it to a 5700Kv on 2S ....you get about the same revs. The amount of power generated though, is hugely different. The 1/8 buggies are usually running ESC's rated to 100-150A.
Wheels are easy. It's not like a 1/10 touring car, where many options are available to fit under the shell. Monster truck and truggy wheels come in 2 varieties. Half or zero offset. Your manual isn't specifying wheel dimensions, as it doesn;t really need to. You can see from the pictures of hte stock wheels that the wheel nut is recessed. Zero offset wheels have the wheel nut sitting proud. You DO NOT want zero offeset, they will come too far in, foul the steering and cause issues. Any of the others will be fine.
2200Kv is about as far as you can reliably go with a 6S setup. It's on the limits. 8S would be pretty much undriveable, and unreliable. It's not worth it. More is just not better unless you can get teh traction, and want to have the diffs usable for more than one run. Did it once...slapped the biggest motor I could fit into a Hyper St truggy, planned to run 6S. Couldn;t keep the diffs together, tyres ballooned so badly I couldn;t keep them on the rims and all it did was wheely and crash when it did run. Then it cooked the ESC. Probably from over-revving when the diffs failed.
-
2
-
-
I wouldn't reccomend either.
I would however, recommend you save a bit more money....as your budget is not great considering you will need to buy extra stuff, like glow starter & charger, servo power pack and charger and fuel....plus some basic tools -
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
I think everyone should own a 4 wheel steer 6 wheel driver Hyper 7 ....
EDIT:
For the benefit of the confused.... I built one to use up a pile of Hyper 7 spares I had.
-
4
-
1
-
Never owned a Lunchbox .... and probably won;t .... as I would immediately have to chop it up, fit proper double wishbone suspension. Graft on a Stampede or similar gearbox and motor mount..... just couldn;t drive it with the stock motor and drive setup
RC's you have to own? I would say a proper nitro Savage..... but then, I am biased
-
The Walbro carb for stock, if I remember right was the WT668.
The KM motor I had had a carb with 'RuiXing' or somethjing similar looking on the bottom. This was a poor quality item. The proper item should have Walbro cast into the bottom plate on the carb.
Quite a few variants can be fitted, but I wouldn't go with a chokeless option.
Just don;t buy any of the cheap copies on E-Bay which are advertised as 'fitment for WT668' or similar. Make sure it is a real one.
https://www.innovative-rc.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_141_143&sort=1a&products_id=738
-
1
-
-
Fire it up and see where you stand 🙂
Parts/engines are not going to be difficult to obtain, so once you know what you have to start with, you can go from there. First thing you DO need to do is check what carb is fitted. Earlier KM engines came with a very poor clone carb which didn;t use the stock settings you will find quoted normally for these motors.
RC Modelz themselves started swapping carbs over on the cars they were selling to fit Walbro carbs from the outset. These are much better, make you motor run better, and are stock fitment to CY and Zenoah engines.If the motor has a dodgy clone carb...that is well worth swapping. But..really...before you go much further planning wise, you need to know what you have to start with. Fire it up....and if it runs good...run as is until you either brushless convert it or the motor fails. Then you can look at options with a better idea of where you want to get to. There are SO many options out there!
-
1
-
-
Thats really a call you have to make yourself.
A better quality engine will be much nicer to use, will be more durable, and will give a better return through it's whole life. You have to decide if you are going to use it enough to make that worth while.
If you are only going to run it a few times, and then go brushless then I would think not... OR if you are undecided about what you are going to do, then selling a used motor never really gets you much of a return. Mostly becuase folks just never know what they are going to get, and whether it's just a worn out piece of junk..
Now...when you say you are looking for a rebuild kit... what state is your current motor in?
Might be worth picking up a used motor like this one : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325553112476?hash=item4bcc7a459c:g:5zIAAOSw5h9jxUZR&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoE1ULyOOzv75jnl%2BQSIvfup9y994A6VDU0Pibmhg85Zh8dTVaVYCdtIsjOWhI0l6LvIZDV7aALIzgvkcW6bPDcpCpXq42W%2B4RKj7tOGtz%2BJxZEYYvq%2Bj97EklK4LohgDXqHIV4t6hsVNEz%2F9IO8CTTsPau6tXQL3KmCvEB9zR9PfBaAA9xVk5jFLvLDiAHlBsFCek398gsLol2U0rzqO%2FTY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8ropYXXYQ
But I would put only as much into the motor as you intend to get use from it.
The stock KM 23cc motor should be able to take basically any 2 bolt headkit. From what I recall of the older 2 bolts, 23 or 26cc kits are fine. 29cc ones come on a few designes and not all fit. So if the bottom end is good, get a head, piston and ring...gasket set...and rebuild the KM unit if you can do it for cheap.
Prime Mover 6X6 build
in Scale Crawlers & Replicas
Posted
Does the rear pass-through diff housing just get made from stock parts?
I know when I made my 6x6 Hyper7, I had to trim the housings where they had a locating ridge...but they basically just fitted neatly together. Not the case when I looked at doing the same with Savage parts. The diff housing was not symetrical inside, and I couldn't make that work easily.