sir_bacharach

I can't come now. Signed up for miles for men.

Hopefully I can come along, last one at Crimdon was my first one, but I'm new so I break my car all the time because I can't land it properly, so you might see my car for 10 minutes max then I'll be stood about with my camera phone before I get bored and go home. lol What are people bringing? Do many of you have Nitro Trucks or Leccy ones? I'm bringing a Savage XL K5.9

Thanks for the invite, was a good morning. Took this vid after I snapped one of my upper arms, was nowt better to do. lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpoLyzod8_U

There you go. Started striaght away, instruction manual said to close high speed needle then open it two full turns which I did, then it mentioned there would be smoke at these rich settings, which there wasn't, so I upped the mixture and it stalled due to flooding, emptied the cylinder then put the settings back, then it was fine. It said to run the engine with wheels off the ground but mentioned nothing about how long for, so I basically ran it about 6 times within the space of an hour letting it cool between each one, with wheels off the floor and throttle all the way down. Then I took it out as it suggested and drove it round a carpark without stopping on the rich settings, until eventually it stalled due to an empty tank. It says now that I should run it on another 5 tanks, each time closing the high speed needle 30 degrees until I'm happy but is very unspecific. It's all very confusing stuff but I'm sure I'll get used to it. Thanks for all your help. Rob.

Good point about richening the high speed needle. I'm using the plug that came with the engine it's apparently an O.S Number 8, whatever that means. can you identify a plug just by looking at it? Are there any markings etc? Cheers for all the advice. Wasn't really straight forward, the engine wouldn't fit because the pullstarter was bulky on the side where the cord is and was hitting the rear differential housing, but luckily I have an old engine with the rotostart on, it was meant for the 15FE, but is a tight fit on the OS engine, the screws seem to bend a little but the housing is centred so hopefully won't put any wear on the engine. I'd rather have the pullstart in all honesty, saves me charging batteries etc, but you can't have everything by the looks of things. I'm shizzling myself at the thought of not running it in right with it being my first car, I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the advice. Rob.

Dooods, I have managed to fit my OS CV-RX into my car, and have some fuel that I had from the other engine (Which was broken) left over to use with this one. The instruction manual for the engine says to use no less than 18% synthetic oil mix in the fuel. I'm not sure as it doesn't say on the bottle but I have OPTIMIX 16 RTR fuel by optifuel. Their website doesn't even tell me what the oil mix is. However I have googled it and it looks like it might be 15% oil and 16% Nitro content. Is it safe to start the breaking in process or not?? The model shop I got it from didn't even seem to know. :S Rob.

This is crazy!! I'm spending sooo much money!! I've just sent for the upgrade engine mounts as I can't find the cheaper ones anywhere as they may have been discontinued. The upgrade part is HPI 86045, I've sent for that, but when I place the engine where it would go with engine mounts the pullstart definately seems to hit the rear differentials and doesn't allow itself to sit straight. I have seen other cars on google though where they've got the engine in, I just don't know if it has a pullstart or not. Don't really wanna remove the pullstart unless you can get a rotostart replacement because all I have is a rotostarter, not one of those flash started boxes. I need to find someone who's done this so I can ask them how they did it. I've scoured the internet though and found nothing but a few pictures. :S

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/kill-stories/10619d1125166008-2005-mustang-vs-hpi-rs4-3-type-ss-us54165.jpg http://media.photobucket.com/image/hpi%20rs4%20cv-rx%2018/hpinitroracer/mt2centerright.jpg These two cars thatI found on google images have them in, I can't see a pullstart though. Will my oldjump start attachment not fit on to the new OS engine? id so then I'm laughing and I'll just need the mounts. Rob.

Looks like it's a waiting game then, don't get that much time off work, there's only one decent model shop round here, I'll give them a call tomorrow. See if they can get hold of them for me. Thanks for your help mate. Tried putting it in and it seems the pullstarter gets in the way, I'm not sure if it's going to fit, might have to take off the pullstarter and put a jumpstart backplate on. There's a big bulky part coming off the pullstarter that knocks into the rear differential housing. Gutted!!

Well, I managed to get the same flywheel on along with the gears, and it looks like it would mesh up fine but the pullstarters a bit of a pain and seems to push up against the servo housing, so I might have to take the pullstarter off to mount it properly. I found this one. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/86045-ENGINE-MOUNT-20MM-PURPLE-BY-HPI_W0QQitemZ170366921846QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item27aaa8ec76&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 Is this not the one? I read my booklet looking for the part, but there were a few. I can't seem to get the one you mention from the uk and this ones 26 quid, bit steep. That one you mentioned looks like it'd do the job, if only I can find it in the uk. Rob.

Hi all. My HPI RS4 as you may already know had a dodgy Nitro Star 15FE engine sat in it. The 15FE didn't need mounts, but the new one does. I have an O.S CV-RX .18 engine, it has no built in mounts but instead has two stands coming out of the side. My question is, although I know I need a mount, how do I know which one to buy and how much space it will need to provide to allign the cogs properly. Has anyone ever done this before? Also will I need to modify anything else, I have the origonal flywheel and clutch etc, and I think I'm going to attempt to pop that on for now, see how it goes. Any help with choosing a mount would be appreciated. Oh and I don't know how to post pics but if it's any help, I can get some on here. Rob.

The eyes have it. All gone dude. I had laser eye surgery not too long ago, that's the shizzle it did to my eyes, blood everywhere!!! Shazam. Sorted now though, good as new.

Hi all!!! I've not long ago bought an HPI RS4 3 Nitro car. I bought it second hand so it has a weathered subarus imprezza shell and a ford pickup. The Subaru one is bareable but I want to make it look as good as new with some funky shells. What I really want is something classic, like old and square Ford Escort Mk2's or those ancient square BMWs!!! Here's a few that I like the look of, but I'm not 100% sure. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/7348-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-EVOLUTION-VI-WRC-BODY-190MM-BY_W0QQitemZ170366336499QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item27aa9ffdf3&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/17214-EU-TOYOTA-LEVIN-AE86-BODY-190MM-BY-HPI_W0QQitemZ180391020864QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item2a00248940&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262 Another thing I've seen though are cheap shells with no decals, which obviousley would look appalling if hand painted. :S

Hey, this forum malarkey is great!! I've been a member of a forum for real cars before but not RC ones. Thanks for the advice, I think I'll scrap the poop old engine. Keep it as a paperweight I think. yesterday was a nightmare, I spent allll day taking the whole car apart, I'd ordered loads of spare parts, including the full front and back suspension, 2 chassis and all the battery and servo holder stuff. Oh and some 120w shock oil. Taking the shocks apart was easier than I thought, but the mess was unbelieveable. I found that there was a small amount of oil in both the front shocks and I found that the rear ones were both nearly empty. The fuel tank was aweful, the plunger was gritty and didn't work properly. So I constantly filled it was water, swilled it out and then bumped the water out until the blockage was sorted, then I kept the lid open let it dry out then flushed it with rc fuel. Now I've done that the plunger for the primer is excellent. I found that the differentials on the back made the wheels free to spin in opposite directions, but the front ones are quite stiff and don't give easily, is this normal or do I need to open it up and make sure the gears are well lubricated?