s22jgs

I no longer use this. In fact ive used it very little sinse buying it.

Hi guys Tried mini tonight and hated every second of it so back to Mardave for me. It does mean though that I got some stuff up for grabs. M05 non pro. With 3racing steering rack, Ali motor mount and Ali heat sing, 3racing Ali shocks. Used once outside so light scratching nothing major. Electrics NOT included. £70 M05 pro. With Tamiya front and read upright, Tamiya Ali steering, Tamiya 5400 Ali shocks, 3racing front and rear Ali shock days, 3racing Ali motor mount and heat sinc. Blue servo rod. Tamiya ball diff. Used for 3 5 min runs indoors only. £130 2 pairs of s grips £5 each 4 pairs m grips £5 each 4 Packs of 3Racing wheels - 8 per pack so 8 sets of wheels £3 each I also have sweep25s both mounted and un mounted. Sweep hard inserts and loads of m chassis new wheels. I'll work out prices on interest. Pm to arrange postage costs Steve

Proline Dirt Arena http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=93

its a pointless question in one sense. You can completely change the way a car handles with diff oil, so its all about testing and working out what you like where. Different tracks ull want a different feel. Different weather and ull again want a different feel. Personally F652R was my starting point. And it very rarely changed.

Hi..... i have previously posted these two replies to similar questions about starting racing.... should answer all your questions....

what u mean by dirt track? whats the surface like? If it not laced with stones and flints i might bring my durango 410 along.

bump

Selling my m06 pro. I bought the 5 and 6 to try side by side and decided on the 5 matches my driving.style more. Built it this week and gave it a 20 minute run today at local asphalt track. Chassis has light scratching as a result. Does not come with electrics. Does come with all remaining plastics, screws, springs etc. And also a BMW 2002 shell in blue and white. £100 collected from me22gp or 110 posted. I will sell along with the team Orion 4600 45c lipo for £140

It depends completely on how competetive and prepared you want to be. I used to do nitro buggy and was winning A finals and about to do nationals before i had no option but to stop for personal reasons. This is what i took to each race day. Main car with electrics and main engine choice for the day. Spare car fully built and setup same as main car no electrics or engine. 2 spare cars broken down for parts. A spare cloned transponder. 2 fresh (new) sets or tyres mounted on rims. Starter box with 12v battery Spare 12v battery Spare shell Setup station and other setup stuff Spring sets Plenty of different shock oils Spare receiver battery (lipo) Spare receiver Spare engine Different engine to differwnt track conditions Spare pipes. The list goes on.

heres a strange one for you im having trouble resolving. In my mardave i have the following: 2600mah 20C LiPo mTroniks Storm X ESC (from modelsport) HPI 20T Saturn motor Spektrum SR3000 HRS Receiver All seems to run ok, but when i steer anything near to track speed steering, the receiver cuts out. I've come to the conclusing that this must either be an issue with the BEC lead power from ESC to receiver, or the ESC doesnt like the HRS Spektrum. Personally i think its the BEC, but how to i get round this issue. The ESC is all pre soldered and closed, so i cant even add a power cap can i? Slightly miffed with this one now. Any ideas?

i never broke a spektrum servo.. savox i did 4 or 5.... make what you will

the T3R is a T3 just with cheaper bits. so anything on the T3 will fit the T3R

Xray T3R its the budget version of the T3 '11. I have both the T3r and the T3 '11 and they are in fact much the same. Ive built both in the last 2 weeks. The biggest difference is obviously the carbon fibre has been replace with composite. But this seems to be decent stuff. The rear diff is different, in that it has plastic out drives, and a simple ball thrust race, but works the same, and will fit in the T3 '11. All the metal parts are the same, just in silver not orange. The only difference i wasnt happy with was the drive shafts. These are plain alu silver dogbones, and are weak, so you will want to upgrade these to the T3 52mm alu and steal drive shafts. It doesnt come with the posts between chassis and top desk for flex settings, but then they have been removed on the T3 '11 anyway. All in all it is a pretty good car for

found the ace wasnt that responsive

from personal experience i wouldnt touch savox for 1/8th off road. i used to race off road, and was winning a finals so sometimes not even putting it on its roof once in a race, and i went through 4 or 5 savox servos on steering. Spektrum servos were the best i used. Feel lovely, nice response and strong

longer chassis and bigger tyres dont add up to better handling. it will be worse might be more stable under power in a corner, but it wont react as well to your steering

hobbywing xtrme stock from xtreme-rc about

Losi 8ight 2.0 EU Novarossi Plus 4 C Spektrum servos Losi Lipo packs Losi 8ight 2.0 EU Novarossi 3 port Spektrum servos Losi Lipo packs AE B44 Novak GTB Robitronix 4600mah 35c Lipos Spektrum Servo Xray T3 Hobbywing Xtreme Stock LRP 5900 mah 50C Lipo Savox Servo Mardave v12 Novak GTB ESC & 540 silver can Robytronix 4600 mah 35c Lipos

The first major thing you need to consider before you start racing is what is your budget. Many people overlook this, and either cant afford to keep it up when they get good, or wonder why they are not doing well. The H7 TQ as a starter is ok. I would say take this to your local track and request to be put in the lowest class for a few races. Its a good strong buggy so you'll have to try hard to break it. The reality of racing nitro RC though, is that money is needed. You will notice that the top guys both on a local level and upwards will be running one of the 3 top brands, Xray, Losi or AE. Some will now start to run teh team Durango. When buying these, all you get is a rolling chassis, so you then have to provide your own electrics and engine. These rolling chassis cost anything from £250 to £500. Electrics are much a muchness, and you should look to spend about £60-£80 on a fast strong steering servo, and about 40-60 on a fast throttle servo. A lipo saddle pack is a must personally, as if you bump up you dont want the hassle of having to change the hump pack in a hurry. these are about £25. You then of course need a lipo charger. Engines are a wider subject, and you can do well with a much cheaper engine, depending on where you are racing and the conditions. to give you an idea, i used to do 1/8 offroad. I ran a Losi 8ight 2.0, and then the EU when it came out. I had 3 cars, one race built, one race built but without the electrics and engine, and one broken down for spares. I was consistantly in the top 3 in teh A Finals at Kent, and was racing at regional and national races. I was also fully sponsored - still am. My engines - i had a Novarossi 3 port which only cost £160 for the engine, manifold, and pipe. I used this at Fairlop raceway where it had enough punch and speed as the track is very tight and twisty, it needed the low end power a 3 port has. At Kent and most regionals and nationals i ran a Novarossi Plus4 C. this is a new kettle of fish, and the engine, manifold and pipe is the best part of £500. But it shows. Has more low end power, more torque and more top end. Its a beast. This is just the basics, and if you really get into it you are looking at setup stations, 6 different types of greese, spares, oils, etc etc etc etc etc. All in all i had over £6k of kit, and was racing/practicing 4 times a week. Along with that i also ran 1/10 electric off road for extra practice. its addictive, and you really need to decide how much you want to spend. Thats not to say you can be good without spending loads, but you do get to a point where your equipment starts holding you back. One more example of this is the transmitter. I used to run the speky dx3. a good controller, but i switched to sticks, a personal preference. But as i got better i wanted and needed on the fly adjustments, so i now have the Futaba 3VCS, which allows me to adjust the servo centre point, and brake pressure amoungst other things in the middle of a race. So 15 minutes into a race when brakes started to fade i could ramp up the pressure. Or if i took a knock i could put the tracking true again so it ran straight.

i can do it with the servo, ESC, motor and a saddle pack for

Hi Guys Selling my B44 as i am concentrating my time and money on nitro. B44 Buggy, run down faversham and once outside. Only thing to note is the plastic bumper at the front i have lost. But i have seen it around. If i cant find it then i will take off the cost of a new one One set of well run in schumacher full spikes on rims One set of barely scrubbed in full spikes on rims One set of the original Holeshots One spare set of front arms Two spare sets of rear arms One spare front bulkhead One spare shock cap One spare diff crown gear Front spring set Original plastic parts and tools from build. Brand new shell, never run, painted in blue and pearl white.

Reduced to

cash price reduced to