Trans4Mation

For what it's worth making it rtr you could buy a cheap rtr tamiya or a cheap Nikko off a local carboot for

Your lucky there not that dear on feeBay for your model less than 100 notes gets you the ecu halo ring chip responder just need someone local to program it. If you have a local rac guy in your area ask him if could set it up out of work time . Beats paying garage labour prices .

Sounds like ecu then my bro Inlaws corsa c kept draining the battery every few days changed alternator etc went in to Vaux in London to find out was ecu & @ 1400 quid to replace he traded it in with a charged battery lol

Also know for ecu faults when hot & there not cheap, also check earth on fuel pump

1st thing I'd check is crank sensor then temp sensor then egr. All these are faults on that model . Coil packs can be faulty to when hot an fuel pumps ,

You can get alloy tube from b&q an drill two holes one in each end slide over post on truck then drop body pin through then fit other part of body mount in the other end an again use a body pin. Bit like new type tent poles if you get my drift.

I'd say it's a clone looks abit like the ta04 but ta04 never had belt cover & never used the front arm set up like your there's used track rods . It looks like kyosho ish to me by the msc / resistor an the look of the plastic , front shocks look to be from a tamiya . Google imige old rc car I'm sure one will pop up. I've never seen one before in 35+ yrs in this hobby. Good luck getting it running. Take the msc out an see if you can see an name on it or if a k on the chassis anywhere. I know kyosho an the cheap brand bymco used that type of msc . Hobby co back in the day cloned few tamiya chassis styles but they used different grade plastic too an added one thing to make them look different .

Watch Using tamiya spray you will find the blue looks patchy & you will use about 4 cans + I only use halfords an one or two cans an no patchy ness . You can even clear coat after a week if wanted but try to get the best finish out the paint so saves buying clear coat. Try warming the cans in water to get better flow.

Flat bed use b&q alloy box section etc. if you want a low loader get a bruder on eBay there easy to extend with alloy section in the centre an outer side an use plasticard in the floor area I've built few over the years . As for 5th wheel pin there's a guy that makes them there about

you will need to remove one side of the rails to fit the 3 speed . So don't go to mad building. & read where it says to glue bearing in the box or use little thread lock if memory correct from last one I built. Red a blue go well on there's mixed . Look nice with rails sprayed up too an rear arches etc colour coded . Google imige the truck . Keep the pics coming.

Wrangler cc01 scale build been sat there since May awaiting my time to finish. Lowrider pumpkin slammed on bigger rims with original ford tailgate not the blank rerelease one that had to go. Awaiting paint so again awaiting my time off work . Low rider vw samba project awaiting me fitting esc . M03 mini track car awaiting a thrashing once new boots fitted . Tamiya Mann truck awaiting build still. Tamiya / wedico tipper awaiting me welding up a new hydro tank old one leaks like a tramps shoes. Many others boxed away or scatterd in the garage / workshop / shed Mk 3 escort cabbie been sat in the garage for 12,yrs if not longer awaiting a spray job Then my little bro can take it away. Fiesta mk5 to turn into a van for mrs to abuse for horse field dutys .

No probs happy to help, if you have a 3.5 why not try electric ? Car next bl hyper gt or other brands touring drift if not had one before ?

Protech has not been around for sometime even back in the day it wasn't a good seller, it don't sound cheap either even if it was new in box I'd walk away just my opinion , better off with a second hand hyper 7 or hpi etc

Lol nope , take your time there a nice build, good luck on the paint this time of year this will be the longest part of the build . I've got builds sat waiting time off to paint but only had 3 days off this year so could be a new year paint fest at this rate .

Look forwards to the build bud, bargin only guy who sold them that cheap in the uk was Jason from 7seasidehomes on eBay I brought loads from him over the yrs but not seen him about of late . Where you get it from? I've had a nib Mann truck under the bed over well over a yr will get it built one yr lol.

They did about 4 or 5 different types the older 15's had shorter blocks an heads think it was from the t15 fitted in mt2' etc they used taller block & head hence piston & liner taller. Google hpi 15 engine you will see think one before the t15 was an f15 unsure on the older ones they had square heads on the very early one.

An remember don't pack them full of grease it won't do it any good just run some round the inner diff gears & round the crown wheel & pinion , it's not as if it's a truggy or buggy or mt where it needs filling . You can put a fine smear round the inner bearings to keep them running smooth

I just use normal 1.1 car grease high temp dark grey colour had a tin for yrs . You can buy small tubes of multi purpose from motor factors for few quid that will last yrs too

Pull it apart it sounds like crown wheel & pinion are grating . If it has slight burrs on the crown wheel file them pointed again. When you sit all the diff in the housing make sure the pinion is sitting nice against crown wheel if not use a fine washer on the pinion shaft to mesh it so it all ur s nice it's a mod I used back in the days of mt2's never blown an rs4 one in any I've had. Just make sure all greased up when rebuild . I dont think it will be the little ones inside the crown wheel diff but check them too if it is them it could be from lack of grease from factory .

Get it done for some sideways fun. I'm sure There super cibies oscars on that harrier . Keep pics coming . Least your getting rid of that butcher'd loom less hassle free driving when your on the rd .

https://www.facebook.com/MOJOOutdoorsTV/photos/a.166982872594.131393.158931732594/10152119978872595/?type=1. But I like Unsmoked back no fat on lol

Marmite & cen you like them or you don't, parts are not the best to find not on eBay anyway there a lot dearer to compared to other better brands. I take it you seen the only one on eBay that looks cheap? . If it was me I'd go for better brands like hyper hong nor X-ray etc. just my 2 cent .

Hi & welcome aboard . Does the club not hire different cars? If so try afew out then see what one you like the handling / looks / better to work on etc. an see if racing is what you want rather than buying loads of top kit to find out you like bashing more? Go along for afew weeks get to know folk an talk to them more an get a better idea plus they maybe have a spare to sell or maybe upgrading to newer spec/ . We all on her can say buy this car get this radio etc but it's down to you an budget . Have a good read of the racing/ touring threads get reading & good luck .

The 3 ladders or two are ok to use on out wards opening hatch . better when like your cause you can use a hook on a pole to pull ladder to slide to 1st ladder section or just have a rope to pull to get it if you get the idea? Just look at size of ladder is width the ladder length too a lot use the 3 section so you can sit ladder at required lean . The 1st two sections will lock into each slider the 3rd will not so can adjust how you want it to sit if not much area on floor etc.