moorehen

Thanks AJ much appreciated.

I've just bought a Traxxas Bandit which comes with a DC only charger - I'd like to use my Absima CB-1S charger but it doesn't have the right connector for the Traxxas ID battery. I'm wondering if this would work? as the charger has a tamiya connection. Can anyone point me in the right direction or advise what options there are in using the DC charger without having to charge in my car? Help much appreciated, bough this for my sons birthday which is next week so need to get something sorted asap!

Got Tamiya connectors at the moment, charger can do both lipo and nimh. Don't want to spend more than

Cool idea, what does the alarm plug into?

Time has come to upgrade the motor for my Tamiya TT02 1/10 touring car. Thing is I can't decide how to go about this. From what I have read the TBLE-02s esc that came with the kit can't do lipo as it doesn't have the cut off function. So my only option is to get a new motor and esc in order to go lipo OR I get a more powerful motor to run with my NiMH batteries. I can't do soldering so I'm looking for an easy upgrade that isn't expensive - I don't want huge power, just enough to make a difference to the stock silvercan motor - not for racing, just for fun. I've looked at Hobbyking etc but it gets so damn confusing with all the different connectors e.g. some say Deans type, other say bullet type and some say T plug - aaarrgggh! Can anyone please suggest a decent budget motor and esc combo that comes pre wired and point in the direction of a decent lipo battery to go with it. Really appreciate any help.

Thanks for the reply - ally prop and cups are on order along with a set of oil shocks. Having looked at the web for more info on this I have come to the same conclusion that a fresh brushless combo is the way to go - I'll enjoy it for what it is for now and maybe look at lipo then move on to looking at a new combo. Anyone got any suggestions for a decent combo set up under

No, haven't got into soldering yet. If I go for the motor you mentioned would it be a case of plug and play or do I have to consider any other changes to run it?

Having just built my first RC car for about 15 years I'm looking to upgrade my stock Tamiya motor in my TT02 kit and want to go brushless as the esc is the TBLE-02s and can handle both brushed or brushless. The car has been built as a touring car, got a few upgrades such as the high speed gear set and have removed all plastic bushings and replaced with bearings. I'd like to get into racing at some point but for now am just using it for a bit of fun. From looking around on the web the conclusion I've come to is that I need a 13.5t brushless sensored motor - I don't have a big budget so was looking at the eTronix Phaser 1:10 Sensored Motor - 13.5T / 2590kv which I can get for about

Hi - I got a TT02 kit for Xmas and am on the stage where the electronics are being installed. My question is: Which leads from the ESC (TBLE-02s) connect to the motor (Tamiya torque tuned s540). The ESC has three leads apart from the power leads, orange, yellow and blue. The motor has a green lead and a yellow lead. I'm guessing the yellow will go to yellow but what about the green lead from the motor? Thanks

Cool, thanks for the help.

Ok will do - but will it work without modification just whilst i'm getting up and running?

Ok so something like a Turing 5000mAh 2s 40c hard case would be ok? Also will I need to change the connector on this to work with a Tamiya esc?

Ok thanks Jordan so would you say these would work together and do the job? http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__26672__Turnigy_5000mAh_3S_20C_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__49452__IMAX_B6_AC_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_with_UK_plug_UK_Warehouse_.html

Just about to get back into RC cars and will be ordering a Tamiya TT02 Eneos Sustina. I will be joining my local club as well with a view to getting into racing but in the main will be using the car for a bit of fun. I was going to go with a NIMH set up but I slowly coming round to the idea that this might be throwing money away if I get into racing and need the extra runtime etc from a Lipo set up. I've started looking at options but have now got very confused about what I need to get going. Can anyone please suggest a good reliable brand of lipo and suggest what batter I would need? Also a cheap but reliable charger? Anything else I need e.g. balancer? Really appreciate any advice - thanks.

I had the sam eissue with my Caster Racing zx-1r, turned out to be an airleak from the pull start assembly. Fixed by replacing with a rear cover and switching to a starter box. Good luck with finding the problem, I know how it feels, I nearly tore my hair out!!

Thanks, I'll give that a go.

Been having problems running my Caster Racing zx-1r, high revs and wheels spinning with no throttle. Took the engine off last week and saw one of the clutch shoes was broken so replaced this and put everything back together this morning, fired it up and bingo everything was ok except when I took the glo starter out it stalled, no problem I thoughy, can be easily fixed. However, after a couple of stalls and restarts the old problem came back, high revs and wheels spinning aaaaarrrrrggghhh this is doing my head in. The carb is set at idle as per the pic below and it won't go in any further. Please cany anyone suggest anything else....... I've just about given up.

Thanks revo, you agree with creamsodauk then? i.e. the clutch is not the problem?

I'm having problems with my Caster zx-1r (screaming high revs when started up) and all fingers are pointing to a clutch problem so took the engine out tonight and not really knowing what I'm looking for found this: Clearly there is a crack but does this mean it's the root of my problem and all I need is new clutch? Do I need to take it right off and inspect it for more damage or is the pic conclusive enough? Thanks in advance.

Thanks, I did wonder if this might do it but didn't want to force it just in case.

Haven't used my zx1-r since December as it appeared I needed a new clutch and as winter was well and truly set in I figured I'd start again when the weather improved. So summer is nearly here and thought I'd fire up the Caster and as expected the same thing happened as the last time I started it up, massive revs and wheels spinning. Checked carb gap etc and all looked ok so I guess it's gotta be the clutch as no major changes have been made to the needles. So now I get to the question, how does the linkage come away from the carb as per the image below: (There is another pic in my gallery if the one below doesn't help). Also how difficult is it to fit a new clutch? Do I need any special tools etc? As I've only put 15 tanks or so though the engine I'm suprised the clutch has gone so quickly, any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Ok I think I'll back the hsn back to the stock setting then see what happens as I've not touched the idle screw as yet. At least if I put the needles back to stock it should tell me if it's the clutch or not.

Ahh ok , apolgies for my noobness!!! I thought I'd need to replace the whole thing. Does this seem weird though that the clutch needs replacing this soon?

Ok, sounds pretty plausible to me. I'll see if I can lay my hands on a new clutch bell and hope that cures things. Only thing is this car has only done about 15 tanks of fuel, surely it should have lasted longer that??