mrfodds

As above, make sure all your batteries are charged including your starter box and portable 12v if you use one. There's no need to loctite all screws, just the servo saver posts, drive shaft grub screws and maybe the engine mount screws (don't use loads though). Do a quick check of your steering lock and throttle and adjust end points if necessary and a fresh set of clutch bearings. If the club has an air compressor, use it to clean your car after each qualifying run paying particular attention to wheel bearings. Hopefully you won't encounter any running issues and you'll have the best day ever!!

SOLD

Probably for the best, especially with on-road tyres. All the methods above are great for saving the rims but not necessarily, the tyre. Acetone can be useful if the tyre sits above the solution but while you can get away with it with some compounds, softer compounds tend to suffer. I have not had a single tyre that was useful after the oven method, the heat just killed the tyre. Can't say for boiling.

Another price drop

Mods, please lock. Both chargers sold

Bump

Bump, still for sale

Just keep leaning the top end 2 minutes at a time until you no longer see a performance improvement. Once you've reached that point, back it off (richen it) by 2 minutes and you should be set. Chances are that your bottom end might need slight adjustment once the top end has been set. For future reference, the top end should always be set first. Don't get too hung up on temps, some engines run hotter than others. You should be able to tell just on sound alone whether an engine is tuned correctly. Once properly tuned the engine should pick up quickly from a standing start (no bogging), have good top end and return to idle straight away once off throttle.

Price drop to

Good entry race engine, it has a very linear power band so pretty easy to control. Decent but not overly impressive fuel efficiency. Takes a turbo glow plug, OS P3 are generally considered the best but Alpha do their own range too.

1 sold, 1 left

I have 2 of these for sale. Very good chargers, but I need something with a bit more power now. These will charge to a maximum of 6A. 12v and 240v cables included and a whole host of charging leads.

Hi folks, I am selling a full race / bash package as I move over to racing 1/8th electric. All you will need to complete this package are servos for throttle and steering and your own radio gear - everything else you could possibly need is included here. XRAY XB9 '12 Novarossi P5XLT engine and pipe Starter box and Pit buddy Engine Heater Decent spares package Battery charger Gallon of Ammo fuel Nitro tools THE CAR As listed, it's an XB9 '12 car. It has been raced for 2 seasons and as such does show some wear. However, in general the car is in good condition. I've cleaned it down and replaced a front diff outdrive that had excessive wear. I replaced it with an XB808 outdrive and will supply a spare as well. I recently replaced the drive pins on all drive shafts so there's no flat spots on any of those. There's some used arms as spares and 1 new front arm, composite air filter cover (for wet weather), every roll bar you will ever need for front and rear and new rear hubs in packet. There's also a spare chassis with sideguards. There are 2 shells, but to be honest, both have seen better days. They are perfectly usable though. The car will be supplied with both a switch and a 1600ma/h receiver battery. The suspension inserts for adjusting kick up, toe in, anti squat are included. THE ENGINE 4 gallons old and recently replaced the rear bearing. Cracking engine, has never let me down. All boxes supplied with venturis for tuning options. Pipe is the 9901 super strong novarossi pipe. Clean with no dents. OTHER STUFF Starter box will be supplied with 2 x 2500ma/h stick packs that have served me well. It's an SMD V2 and is set up for the car. Not much to say on the pit buddy, it holds the starter box in place, has 4 holes reamed for additional tool storage and will be supplied with a hudy fuel bottle.The engine heater is an IB Prostart one with NDOR design stitched on. It really is the ultimate accessory for winter racing as it makes firing up the engine so much easier. I can supply a sealed battery as well to power both this and the battery charger.The charger is a Fusion Ethos LX 41B Pro charger. Not the greatest charger in the world but more than adequate for charging the starter box stick packs and the car receiver battery.Tools - There's a piston stop, flywheel holder for installing clutch nut, glow start, clutch tool, various nut drivers (not photographed).I've chucked a little box together that includes are load of brand new clutch springs, screws, shims, engine bits.4litres of Ammo 30% race fuelI'll throw in 2 sets of bashing tyres as well!PRICE I'm looking for

Nope, if the flywheel is too small then no amount of filing is gonna help. You're just gonna damage your chassis. Do you know how big your current flywheel is?

Was the first place I took my Tamiya Mad Bull! Some of the jumps could be doable with a properly powered car. It's good fun as a bashing site if there aren't any bikers around.