Gtiracer
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Posts posted by Gtiracer
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3 hours ago, Wltoys 12402-a said:
Yes m8 indeed do so I just got a vantage brushless and put sway bars on it and a stronger servo and what a difference it makes 😁😁
I've done exactly the same on mine, the difference was amazing. Strange thing is I've also got a new wing that I've cut out, need to spray and put on. It's not the same wing as yours though. I'll get some pics up soon
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1 hour ago, Jack Reacher said:
no not yet, not sure how long i plan on running this car, i keep telling myself no more money going it then i make a tweak and get a little more out of it
Thanks, I'm sure you've probably said in an earlier post but what motor esc and spur/pinion do you use please?
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7 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:
3S lipo but going 4S when foam tyres arrive
Have you modified your diffs or had any diff problems yet?
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15 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:
New pb with the Vantage 53.99 mph, up from 48.99 mph
Is that on 3s or 4s? Nice run btw
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4 hours ago, Ant.p said:
I’m curious... do you mind me asking why you would want to do this?
The shock towers at the rear are taller, so would make the back lower if you replaced with a ‘front’ shock? You could lower the ride height of the car by raising the threaded collar above the springs if this is what you’re trying to achieve?
After doing a fair bit of research looking into replacing my carnage shocks, I learnt that the stock shocks were actually good enough quality, but just not setup correctly for the added stresses given from the increased performance as a result of the more powerful motor etc. I found that the original shocks were massively improved by replacing the factory shock oil with a heavier weight. Stock is 30wt and I used 50wt when modifying the carnage.
It was mainly because I had been looking at uprated gmade shocks and could find some in the length that I needed for them front, but not the rears, so wondered if they could be put the same, but I hadn't thought of the shock tower being higher, I thought for some reason the back wheels would be extended lower, essentially putting the front in a nose down kind of fashion. But what you said makes a lot more sense.
I shall try adding some different shock fluid and see how it goes. Do I need any kind of sealant after taking them apart and putting them back together to keep the fluid retained?
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Anyone tried putting same length shocks on the back of the vantage as to what's on the front? Or does the longer ones at the back help keep the nose down a bit more for handling?
Are any of the shocks on banggood worth a go?
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Have you tried asking in the ftx vantage/carnage thread. Plenty of guys in there who could give you pointers on the carnage.
I own a vantage which cost under 200 to buy the RTR and is very similar to the carnage underneath. But not been able to help myself from buying a few upgrades.
I found that out of the box these are pretty quick and capable cars, but they do have their limitations so it's all about what you're expecting from them reallyafter my second run I bent a suspension strut and I've lost a few screws which have worked their way loose. Also the grub screw from the centre driveshaft came loose giving me only 2wd. I've since loctited it in.
All in all I do enjoy my car, but they do have their weak spots. I also think I would e preferred a car with stronger diffs to reliably run 3s as that seems to be a major sticking point with these ones but it is plenty o fun on 2s too though.
In hindsight I probably would've bought something a little more expensive and gone for reliability, but any model will break if bashed enough
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I would be up for meeting at the Thetford place if someobody else or a few others were going. I'll set this thread up to notify me of any changes and try to join in if someone wants to go.
Where do you guys park if not at the entrance?
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8 hours ago, Redback said:
vantage, outlaw, banzai, carnage all use the same diffs and you shouldnt have issues with them on 3s if fitted and shimmed right.
i run 4s through these diffs and havent had any issuesI too would be interested to see how you have them setup. Do you mean you put shims behind the cogs to push them closer together and allow less play in movement?
Pictures would be much appreciated if you happen to have any from when you did it? 4s would be crazy, what motor and esc do you have that can handle that?
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Does anyone know if any of the vantage clones have stronger diffs that are interchangeable with the vantage? I wanna take it to 3s but I hear some many things about the diffs being the weak point
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4 hours ago, Jack Reacher said:
I need to put a different shell on my Vantage, with the 120amp hobbywing i am struggling to get the shell on now, any idea`s what to use to give a little more room
I've always wondered if the Strada xb shell would fit? Or maybe a phat bodies shell if they make a 1/10 one? Other than that I don't know
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15 minutes ago, Redback said:
The esc shouldnt wear out, a better / new motor will be night a day for response if its slugish
You can also try cleaning the motor with some bearing blaster over the brushes and computator, I would avoid spraying lubricants into the motor it will attrack more dust and wear out faster.
Assuming your talking about the stock brushed esc, you can try a more powerful esc like a quicrun 1080 or 1060.
The next step up would be brushless and lipo batteries you might expect 50%+ better power / response and runtime from that combo due to the power increase.Thanks, but I'm the stock brushless setup though?
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As per question really, from the factory, which cars can handle the most power being put through them without a fuss and handle accordingly well too without having to spend loads upgrading the chassis to cope with the extra power.
Quite a few at the local club run the associated cars b64's & b74's I think but would be great to hear your opinions and experience
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Is the stock esc worth replacing/upgrading before it breaks, would I notice much difference in the way the car responds or generally just replace once worn out?
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What greases do people use on their diffs? I've got some basic grease in the garage but it's really thick and I don't want to clog up the gears too much?
I'm also under the impression that silicone/high temp grease is best for the conditions that the RC car is going under. I don't think the stuff in my garage is silicone based
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2 hours ago, Hugoagogo said:
No mate the ARTR they sell only comes brushless, but at £90 it comes in less than the brushed Vantage.
If anyone had their heart set on fitting a specific combo from the off, they do a rolling chassis for £60 which would be the cheapest route.
I'm no expert but it ran well in my yesterday so I'm not planning on doing anything to it (I do have sway bars on back order).
That's crazy good value
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1 hour ago, Iain .R said:
Well today I went out with my carnage . And I remembered as swap the wires around holy crap batman !!!!!!!!!!! Ok ok I know the carnage is not a rocket but when it goes it GOES . It's even better pulling off on grass now still 1 to 2 sec delay but on road or gravel !!! flocka sporren !! It wheelspins and flips over or wheels off ... iv been running it the wrong ruddy way I did the colour match on the wires tho ????
But wow is shifts now . And the brake if I go half flat out the brake it does a bonnet stand or flips over but bounces on the front and back torro bumpers lol and if it land on wheels just keep going ha ha ha iv got a wee nutter on wheels .
What motor/esc/ pinion/spur combo do you run please?
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17 minutes ago, Ant.p said:
If the thread has gone, there is little you can do other than replace. The parts you need (assuming this is at the slipper clutch end) are:
fast123 m3 grub screw:
https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72016/
FTX 6273 slipper drive cup:
https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/115244/
I would suggest adding locktite or similar to stop the grub coming lose. It’s very easy to round off the heads in the grub screws, so make sure you have a good fitting hex tool.
Hi, thanks for the reply, it's just the head Inside the grub screw that's rounded off, I've got it out though but I won't be putting it back in, I've bought some high tensile ones the same size that I'll put in with some blue thread lock. Rather annoying that it's come loose and I've only used the car a total of 3 times however
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14 minutes ago, Ant.p said:
Is the central drive shaft spinning? If it is, then it’s likely your front diff. I had this problem not so long ago when I had a few teeth snap off in the diff drive gear. Because I drove it too long like this, it also damaged the diff spur. End result was no front wheel drive
I've investigated a bit further. And although the rod wasn't spinning, the part of the shaft with thread where it joins to the rod was spinning, it looks like a grub screw that I can't do up tight enough.
Can I pack something inside the grub screw that will really grip down on it?, I tried to tighten them and they just round off immediately
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1 hour ago, oscart2005 said:
Hi, I’m new to using lipo batteries and every time I run them when I get home I storage charge them on my charger, do I need to do this every time I use them as it takes ages or can I leave time discharged until my next use?
For me if I had completely drained the battery until the esc cuts it off, then yes I would, unless I knew I was going to run it the next day. But for me everytime I've taken it out I haven't even used all of the battery juice up so I know there should be enough in there for the next time. Unless it's winter season to put it away in which case I would anyhow.
On another note, when I pick my vantage up in the air, only the rear 2 wheels are spinning, anybody know which part is likely to have come disconnected please?
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Thanks guys. Top advice as ever
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6 minutes ago, oscart2005 said:
Yeah, I now run a 47t spur and a 13t pinion, gives it a bit more top speed and still accelerates really fast.
Where do you get steel pinions of varying sizes and how are you supposed to know which cog size variations work together please?
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1 minute ago, oscart2005 said:
Hi, I run the hobbywing Max10 combo with the 4000Kv motor on 2s, ran it on 3s earlier with no faults, and its definitely fast enough and its a lot of fun. It is nice to have the temperature cut off just so that I don't have to check to see if the motor is to hot, would definitely recommend doing the upgrade, it feels a lot more solid and feels like it is better build quality than the stock system. If you do end up upgrading then you'll definitely need to do spur and pinion gear upgrades if you haven't already.👍
Thanks for the info,
I have the hardened spur and pinion but am yet to put them in, did you change from the standard cog sizes with your hobbywing?
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6 hours ago, Redback said:
I have a max 10 3300kv and the same etronix 2950kv motor as you.
The issues i found with the stock etronix electrics, is the esc is only 45amp with a lower peak vs the hobbywing esc, the motors are ok but the hobbywing motors are better with a sealed can vs the open shaft endcap on the etronix.
Also with the motor the hobbywing motor is a little bit bigger even if its 520mm length its still bigger than the "540" motor from the etronix that is really a 515mm length motor.
It will be a slight improvment on performance but not night and day vs a brushed upgrade. A decent lipo will make a big diffrence on brushless vs nimh as it will deliver the constant power needed for the higher power drain.
Thanks, great to have a comparison. So maybe a future upgrade if it fails as opposed to a 'do it now' type upgrade then? Maybe I'll bump up to 3s on my etronix setup when I fancy a bit more speed for general hooning around and replace when it wears out.
Are ESC fires common?
FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread
in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Posted
I use Zees, they seem alright but only used my car for about 8 runs if that so far