C3PO

Brilliant thread and very informative. Thanks for sharing...

What's the secret of fixing heat shrinks to the soldered joins on wires? My wires end up getting so hot with the iron the shrinks shrink even at the far end of the wire, away from the soldering itself. Having to use insulation tape instead at the moment.

Yes, this is a superb forum and incredibly helpful.

Thanks Garry -- that's exactly the method I used. All I need now is a track to run it on

Just sorted it through the digital menu -- thanks guys.

Cannot see any switch I have the HiTEc Flash 4 Pro Car transmitter...

Thanks ... no the shell was pre-painted More pictures below, but I have a little problem: the stick on the controller when pushed right makes the car go left ... is there an eas way of correcting this without removing the servo and turning it around? Pix: And a little video of it in action (the fan is pretty loud)

Okay ... little update: got the car built finally with motor, ESC etc... I visited my personal mechanic (my dad) and he sorted all the soldering as I'm pretty awful. Here she is tonight, will post better pix tomorrow:

Thanks -- very interesting.

@ losidan: Haven't had a chance to race the car yet ... because I haven't had a chance to build it properly. But as soon as that happens I'll report back. I can tell from just handling the car that it feels a thousand times more precise. The SST has a fair bit of wear laterally -- by which I mean that when you move it from side to side there seems to be a fair bit of play in the wheel bearings so the car "rocks" while stationary. That's hardly surprising considering the abuse this stupendous car park basher has had to deal with! @ B-Master: Thanks for the tip ... I'm certainly looking forward to some superb car handling and performance from this set up -- but critically within my capabilities! @ anyone: One thing I'm particularly interested in is aerodynamics (well, what die-hard Formula One fan isn't?!). I'm really interested to know the comparative differences between downforce on RL touring cars which probably just about top 150mph compared to these scale models which do the equivalent of up to 400mph or more in certain circumstances. Is the level of downforce generated proportional to the relatively proportionate speed (I never studied computational fluid dynamics). Is the body shell as stiff as the panels on cars (my guess is yes).

The specs for the ESC are: Over 2.5T 600A output 4-8 cells NiMH 3 cells Lipo Edit: sorry -- you meant the previous ESC! I've posted the specs for the new one, thanks, see what you mean now.

Thanks ... I'll probably go for this one (85Amp): http://www.great-outdoors-leisure.co.uk/index1.html

Hi All, Next step on the road to racing at weekends is buying a car / leisure battery. I popped into Halfords today and saw their range from

Little update: bought a new brushless 10.5 motor and new ESC yesterday ... will try to fit later today.

Took the SST out to a local car park this afternoon for a blast as the Cyclone is not ready to use yet (on a proper track of course!). Used the 4200 pack for the first time ... which was fully charged. Odd thing happened though ... got about 3 mins full speed use out of it and then the car rapidly slowed down -- as if the pack was out of charge -- and then the motor would not budge again. It was hot to the touch as I picked up the car. Swapped another fully charged battery into the slot and again the motor would not budge. I wonder if it is to do with the transmitter battery getting to 9.8 Volts (its max is 11.2 when fully charged)? The NiCad inside the transmitter is the same one I had ten years ago, although it has had very little use.

Cheers guys.

Thanks all ... yes, that I think is spur dust around the motor mount, presumably the motor pinion was too close into the teeth of the gear and I suppose a new one will be needed at some point. Will try and redrill a new position for the antenna.

Found one flaw: the positioning of the antenna means that the antenna wire from the receiver gets perilously close to the drive belt because the antenna comes out of the car in the middle of the chassis. Not sure how to avoid the wire getting chewed up...

Hi, this motor came with a set I bought second hand and it is in need of new brushes. After removing the insides, these four washers also popped out. Am I right in thinking that two should fit on each end of the motor arm -- on the left and right? Thanks for any advice.

Hi All, Today I took delivery of the Andy Moore Cyclone Edition (bought off ebay) and it's a superb piece of kit. It is in what I'd call very good to excellent condition having been run just a few times on indoor tracks. Comparing it with my Schumacher SST, well that's a bit silly as everything is improved and feels much tighter. The package came with the car, servo, receiver, new HB body shell, 2x 3700 cells, niMH/Lipo charger, ESC ... only thing not there is the motor, but I have a little collection of these already . Here she is: One question: can anyone identify the model of LRP ESC I have, need to know specs for motors etc.. I bought this set of motors earlier this week too: They comprise: One Team Orion SV2 Formula BB 10x1 One Team Orion V2 revolution 12x1 in need of brushes One Team Orion V2 Element 19x1 One Reedy Krypton 12x1 brand new only run in One Reedy Quad Mag 19x4 One Team Almighty Jimmy Maddison Edition 19x1 very powerful motor

I do have an old set of 3000NiMH cell pack which will not charge ... what is the procedure to safely dispose of this item?

Thanks guys -- I'm using a Pro-Peak Varipulse AC/DC Delta Peak Fast Charger ... and charge at a maximum rate of 3A. Cannot find the batch numbers on the battery stick pack as the cells are encased in plastic. EDIT: D'OH: the code appears to be AEAES

I recently bought a stick pack of 6 Intellect 4200 NiMHs (in 3 x 2 configuration) but have read with some concern the IB4200 cells exploding like grenades. My cells say "Intellect SC-4200" -- are these different to the "problem" ones. Do I have anything to worry about?

This is weird: after taking everything off the car, in the last hour I tried the motor connected to the ESC, battery and receiver and all is fine now! Motor is going really well ... maybe it was a loose connection or something. Anyway, there is a new issue (dammit): I now seem to have developed torque steer under harsh acceleration. The belts were removed yesterday and perhaps there is additional friction on one of them which is cause one belt not to get up to speed as fast as the other one ... or could it be some other reason? The car pulls to the left from the go ... not massively but significantly. The motor pinnion is very snug against the main gear wheel.

Thanks -- HPi ... are Deans the right things for motors directly ... I already used those for the battery to the ESC at the moment... Cheers TBRS4 ... might need a new ESC maybe...