joe of loath
-
Posts
7,012 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Prizes
MSUK-Forum - RC Model News and Community
Articles
Events
Posts posted by joe of loath
-
-
-
As much as I hate to do this....
Solid club racer. Owned since new, lots of upgrades. Just needs new tyres, a radio and battery.
It's a TA05 (version 1), with 3racing carbon chassis, Tamiya alloy steering rack, Tamiya front universal joints, and carbon front hubs. Shell is a Dodge Stratus, electronics are a Bluebird high speed servo and EZrun/Speedpassion 120A ESC with Speedpassion 10.5t sensored motor.
The Good:
Not terribly well used, probably had a dozen club meetings on it? Moved on to more expensive things before I ever got particularly good at racing.
While the car's only been raced outside, the chassis was only raced outside once after fitting.
Built like a tank. Anyone who's owned one of these will vouch for how sturdy they are.
Goes like s**t off a shovel. Even with the obnoxiously large pinion gear (outlined below) I'd still break traction when pulling away, even with nicely warmed Sorex 28 race tyres.
The Bad:
Bit dusty, needs a good spray down with a can of compressed air.
Obnoxiously large pinion gear (27t). I raced at Kemble airfield so geared for that massive long straightaway.
A few glue marks on the chassis from transponder/weight mounting.
Paint job's a bit messy. (Someone told me to use sharpie to outline the stripes. It ran).
Soldering's also a bit messy. I was 15 with a cheap iron and did the best I could.
The Ugly:
Couple of stripped screws. Will come out, but will need replacing.Pictures:
As you can probably see, I've listed it as honestly as possible. I'm a little (very) out of touch, so (politely) let me know if I'm way off the mark here, but I was thinking
-
Just FYI, if you're planning on using that 28-105 for low light stuff with that body without a flash, you're going to run into some big trouble with noise. My body has similar noise performance, and I shoot with an f2.5 lens as a minimum when shooting available light. Hence why I prefer to use a flash. Also, I'd recommend against a filter - they give weird flare when you shoot into the light.
Some of mine:
And this one I took on film:
-
1
-
-
Assuming she's in the UK, 192.com is good. I've traced a few people using just their name and approximate location.
-
-
I'm guessing it would be about
-
Upgraded my (currently shelf queen) TA05 to carbon years ago and just found the plastic chassis. Overall good condition, some minor marks on the bottom but otherwise OK.
-
Hey all, long time no see!
A couple of years back I had a lipo explode in my E-firestorm, and never got round to fixing it. Damage is mostly to the battery tray and the servo area (as I booted it as hard as I could into a pile of wet leaves the moment I saw smoke). Looks like it'll need a new chassis, servo saver and some miscellaneous steering gubbins. It's also pretty rusty as it was put away wet a few times, but all the bearings spin well (I put new bearings in the hubs just before it exploded) and the gearbox is in good nick. Rear tyres are shot, as are the rims. Front are fine. No shell, as the lipo burned a hole right through it.
I know these things are indestructible, so it's probably not as bad as it looks
As you can see it's not worth much, so
-
Been ages since I've been around here O.o
I have here for sale a Vapextech 7 cell 3700mah ni-mh battery, bought in error by a friend.
Brand new, never used. Comes with a mini-tamiya plug, but I can solder on a deans connector if required.
-
I think that's an ARB.
-
That's actually not a terrible price, I can't see one in similar condition going for much less on ebay.
-
The motor will only draw as much current as it needs, the battery can have as high a discharge rating as you like, and as long as the voltage isn't too high, they'll run.
-
Might as well shop around for a cheap roller if you need that. I got a nearly RTR, reasonably hopped up mini (just missing a receiver) for
-
On my forum we hold elections.
Good luck, and prepare yourself for the haters.
-
In my time sending and receiving post, I've had one package go missing.
Am I the only one?
(Although I am annoyed at the customs handling charge, although I got the guy behind the desk in the parcelforce office to admit it was probably a scam, which I was most pleased at).
-
If you're getting something newer you'll need new batteries anyway, so get some batteries first
-
Run them in series. Series adds the voltage of the packs, parallel adds the capacity of the packs. So, series goes faster, parallel runs for longer.
-
Adaptors are silly, you end up with extra resistance, extra bits floating around in the car, and usually they use cheap/wire, since they're designed for charging.
The wires are usually 12awg. Go to maplin, buy 2 meters of 12awg, figure of eight speaker cable, and you've got more wire than you'll ever need for about a fiver.
-
Nope, other way round.
-
But they are identical, right? Just the black one came with spacers
-
Nope, soldering is required to change connectors.
-
It's worth just doing the single servo mod TBH. Uses loads less power, and is lighter. Less to go wrong, too
-
1
-
-
Is it worth draining the tank before pushing it there, and draining it before pushing it back? Or too much hassle? Because then a copper would look pretty silly, arresting you for pushing a bike with an empty tank.
-
Three D's
It's annoying, as I worked my arse off for the last modules, and got exactly the same marks as I did when I didn't give a crap back in AS in both Maths and Physics. In Music tech I got an A this year, but an E last year as I had a crap teacher, and it averaged out about 2 marks off a C
Oh well, I still got into uni. BSc Electronic & Electrical engineering at Plymouth, hoping to move up to the BEng at the end of the first year.
Nearly ready to race TA05 with upgrades
in For RC Sales
Posted