Anthoop
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Posts posted by Anthoop
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4 minutes ago, Ian w said:
Sorry now you have completely lost me I don`t see the difference between 2 cyliders connected by a crankshaft or a toothed belt apart from the crankshaft being a bit more solid. So if an engine that uses a shared crankshaft can produce more RPM why can`t an engine connected by a toothed belt do the same?. The manic engine runs as a multi cylinder engine not 2 seperate engines.
The Manic is two .18 engines tied together by a belt...nothing solid...tie two cylinders by a single crank then you produce more power simply because the tolerances are lower...let alone the friction...
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4 minutes ago, Ian w said:
Yeah but by doing that you are back to the problems of tunning each engine and hoping to get the same tune so you may as well stick to 2 totaly seperate engines and hope you are getting the same tune. The only mistake that Scumacher made was not having a shared crankshaft. After all a few years ago before fuel injection and multi choke carbs most 1/1 cars only had one carb and one exhaust.
I would rather use a proper tool then hope to get timing right
If you share the crank then both cylinders (combined) can produce more rpm ( thus power) but sharing a crank is not easy...especially given the size/rpm of a RC car glow engine.
1:1 cars and fuel injection/single choke carbs are very different...they are four strokes...slow and lazy but can be more efficient....here we deal with two strokes...totally inefficient but nearly twice as powerful in comparrison.
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Oh and there are ways to get the engines timed together without the need to buy suff but it is a bit involved...
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1 hour ago, Ian w said:
Yeah I managed to pick one up quite cheap from the bay a while ago. The biggest problen it has a fairly small fuel tank and it drinks a lot of fuel and the tyres expand at full revs.
What Rory said up there is correct...all you get is more torque...Schumacher missed a few tricks ( but also avoided problems) by combining the exhaust and carburettor....if each engine had a carb/exhaust then the total unit would be more powerful......but still under geared.
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3 hours ago, METALHEAD said:
Well, the last electric I had ran on NiCad batteries, it was a Tamiya kit I had in about 1996? ish? So it likely has come on, noise wise I do love the noise factor and quite frankly the neighbors can kiss my skid plate when they've been mowing their gardens at 10pm. Budget is probably somewhere £200-450 ish, will need to be RTR or an all in bundle as I currently have nothing, no remote or anything but then again I always prefered stick remotes over the steering wheel type that people use so may have to source separately.
I like the look of Monsters and Truggys/STs but then I "think in my head" that a Buggy will be faster, am I right? Also is a Truggy and an ST the same thing?
I do not think there is any RTR that comes with sticks these days...pffft...( I use sticks btw)...
You really have to decide which power plant YOU want....positives and negatives for both, nothing clear cut...some think they can manage an engine and some think they need electric....only you can decide....plenty of video on Youtube.
A buggy of the same scale will always turn faster than a truggy...if they have the same power unit then the buggy will accelerate faster.....the truggy will handle rougher ground better.
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If you are painting/wrapping it and only need to fix broken/damaged areas then look up Q Bond.....very good for plastic/fibreglas/metal bonding/filling....
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On 27/05/2016 at 16:20, firestorm01 said:
I did this with my .21 hyper when it was new. Shame they don't put anything in the manual about needle settings and tuning, no wonder so many nitro first timers get all uptight from not being able to start or even run a nitro engine!!
I agree that most manuals do not really offer much help for the inexperienced...but...(and there can be many buts).....I have had and ran many Hyper engines, I like them as they are cheap and easy...I know settings/plugs/fuel that always work for me for a new engine...and I always tell anyone....but these are the settings that work for me...there was a time when CML included a few sheets of general guidance but sadly they felt the need to cut costs ( mmm printing a piece of A4...).
Overall there is not a great deal of help from any manufacturer on the "ins and outs" of an engine...but there was a time when people in general were expected to figure things out on their own....it is a hobby...
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On 23/05/2016 at 15:30, mond said:
It does hold water. London is a great place for multinational employers to find talented bilingual people. We employ 100+ with 80 being foreign for thier language skills and all paying into the British state. That will go on Brexit because of the lack of freedom of movement but also duties being reintroduced. We leave the EU, we leave the single market. That neo Nazi Farage can say all he wants but both France and Germany have said if we leave the EU we leave the single market.
Every exporter will be affected as foreign sales will increase in price as duties will be applied meaning to maintain the pre Brexit price they'd need to be produced cheaper. The same applies to imports.
If you vote out, prepare to take it in the pocket and potentially lose your job if you work in any business that imports or exports goods and services. Next time you're doing your weekly food shop, look at the country of manufacture- that will go up too. That's not scaremongering, that's the fact of the situation . We have an export deficit which makes it even worse.
The best English speakers ( both typed and vocal in my opinion) are from the Netherlands.....(I play games )...the worst are from the UK.
Seems like you have a strong opinion about Nigel Farage though...wow..
I only buy UK produce...and my job has no involvement with import/export....wahey I win no matter whiich way the vote goes then?....too many voters not knowing facts....happy voting on your opinion....
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Every new engine/car I had from the Hyper 21/28 had the LSN too lean....I set the LSN so the head of the screw is proud of the surround by 0.5mm...the idle gap at 1mm....and HSN at least 3.5 ( HSN setting not a great concern as only using low rpm on new engine).
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On 23/05/2016 at 14:53, Tamiyacowboy said:
the port you refer to is the intake port, by means of venturi the fuel is pulled into this port and as the crank rotates its ejected into the rear of the crank and compressed via the piston movement, as the down stroke happens the port closes off and the fuel charge is forced into the combustion chamber above the piston, on the up stroke a new charge is drawn into port and the cycles starts over again - suck - squeeze - bang - blow
I am nit picking ( yawn, what a surprise).
Nothing is " pulled in".......air is pushed into the carburettor and due to the venturi air speed increases drawing fuel from the jet.....the air is pushed in because the piston movement creates below atmospheric pressure in the crankcase....and so when the crank window opens, air is forced in via the pressure differential ( and if I am really picky I should say that the air expands into the area....but hey).
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1 hour ago, SlayerLayer said:
I'm voting to stay in.
Most of the import export is with the eu the eu, their the closes traders we have nearest to us, china sells world wide so it will continue to do so.
The car industry will suffer a lot in the uk companies like bwm skoda Mercedes etc.
They will cut a lot of jobs down and theres more and more companies that will suffer.
Companies with headquarters in London, the majority will leave and move elsewhere.
Im sure Scotland will start a referendum to leave the uk as the majority to stay in the eu is overwhelming so the uk will be no more.
I think we might be alright for the first 2 years but in 5 to 10 years after we leave then we will see the big affects and how worse off we will be.
Very little of that ( and your following post), holds water.
How and why would the car industry that is not owned by the UK be any different?
Lol...why would any company back out of London....tax?
I dunno but I think the Scots had a referendum.......
(hence me not voting).
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19 hours ago, behappy2755 said:
And if you take the carb off and look down the hole, you can see the crankshaft, which opens up on the upward stroke. Then it closes and the piston goes down, and the pressure escapes around that opening on the crankshaft (which is facing down at this moment) and around the wall which holds it, up into the carb hole.
When the engine is running the crank will have oil around it....this forms a seal....if the crank bearings are worn or there is excessive wear to the crank/casing and the engine does not run/tune correctly then you have an issue. Usually when a front crank bearing is worn out then plenty of fluid will leak from behind the flywheel ( but note there are also other reasons for leaks behind flywheel such as rich mixture/low rpm), when a rear crank bearing is worn out then glow plugs will blow ( again there are many other reasons why a plug may blow).
If the backplate is leaking around the shaft then it is the bushing in the backplate and/or the shaft....the shaft is steel and usually will last longer than the bush.
Most static checks for how an engine is sealed quite frankly are a waste of time....if it does not move...then put a tadge of RTV on it....if it moves then check that it does not have excessive freeplay and O rings/bushes are good to go.
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I will not vote. I do not know enough to select the correct option.....and neither am I interested enough to research it.
Too many people will vote just based on....the paper they read....the news channel they watch/listen to....the politician they like/appeals....thier life experience...thier friends...the list could be endless.
Of course I have an opinion but why would my opinion be right....especially when I have already said I do not know enough....( oh yes...voting...lol...who can lead the lemmings).
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On 07/05/2016 at 00:23, Anthoop said:
Far Harbour looks great, really looking forward to it....May 19th...bring it on.
Oh...just remembered...tomorrow...wahey.
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12 hours ago, Rory said:
A few years ago the nitro section of this forum used to be so busy, youd post up a topic and get lots of replies within minutes, now its eerily quiet. I have a feeling the youngsters getting into RC are going straight to brushless electrics and its going to be the older generation who use nitro.
Kids will be kids....short lived.
I started with electric....mmm...raced a bit with 1/12...then I was old enough to use an engine....never will I want an electric car again....bring on the tinkering.
(bit odd that some people think that an engine using glow plugs is different to one using spark plugs...in that they are both two stroke engines...just one has a better potential power to weight ratio).
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37 minutes ago, The Hound said:
thanks Zig,
trouble is cant get door trim off without opening door.
looks like a hack job and get a new door trim.
It sounds like the actual mechanism on the N/S/F door is kerplunked....you can isolate the electrics by disconnecting the battery....you can remove the inner door trim without totally ruining it.....awkward, yes, impossible,no.
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On 11/05/2016 at 16:43, Rory said:
So i took apart some of my little TS4N for a good clean, and put it back together. Go to start it and fuel wont prime... not covering exhaust or physically blowing up tube. It wouldn't reach the carb.
Spray loads of carb cleaner down there and manage to get it to prime as normal.
It will only run for a couple of seconds then dies from lack of fuel - what I need to know is should the carb be flush with the body of the engine? I had it off, and when I put it back on it was very stiff to push back ... I pushed it down as hard as I could and even used grips to squeeze it .... but the O-ring at the top of the carb neck sits over the intake for the engine.... its not totally flush.
Should I feel the O ring pop inside the intake as I push the carb home? I think I have in the past with other cars. Checked google images for pics to see if the O ring is visible but cant really tell.
Never use force or mole/pipe grips/pliers with these little engines...they are delicate.
When installing something like a carb. with O rings then a bit of lube will be helpful.....never try to press rubber stuff into metal dry.....personally I always use RTV on anything...but you could always use some silicone grease...or spittle...WD40.....virtually anything rather than dry...
Oh and many carb. necks are clamped in place by collets....ensure they are removed before trying to forcefully add/remove.
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M3...at least 10mm length.
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On 08/05/2016 at 15:39, Ziggy122 said:
Did used to watch Squirrell TV, but meh too long...
Too much incorrect information in my eyes.....with so many videos/topics you will always go wrong somewhere....
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On 08/05/2016 at 01:08, turok007 said:
My FAV's are a couple of retro game ones also
povpool
jay lenos garage
just started watching this one bosnianbill
i have one RC fave but it's for planes. I have been into cars for so long that not much excites me now so i don't really watch anything about them. lol
i also have about 300 music videos saved. Im in to everything from classical to slipknot
I have never noticed the J.Leno garage thing before so thanks for that.
I knew of course about his collection just did not realise he did a run down....nice.
I also updated my post a bit....really nice to see a brief idea of what the Youtuber offers and maybe why you watch them on a regular basis.
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Who do you like/watch on a regular basis? ( Please put a little description of what they do and why you like them).
I mainly watch gamers....
Robbaz....gamer.....very funny guy...King of Sweden.
Quickybaby...WOT player....much information for playing World of Tanks.
Neebs gaming...gamers.....my favourite bunch of Americans....found these guys when playing BF3, their Battlefield Friends series is great....
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On 05/05/2016 at 16:25, khevolution said:
Started a new game recently and after looking on youtube for good starter builds i came across this thought some of you might enjoy
PS who else is excited for the Far Harbour DLC thats about to come out this month?
Far Harbour looks great, really looking forward to it....May 19th...bring it on.
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12 hours ago, autobutcher said:
The new Battlefield 1 looks amazing, some biplane action at last!
Yes....how broken will it be at launch is the question.....I would like to buy/play it but EA/Dice have kicked my teeth in too many times....I am waiting until after launch just like I did with BF4 ( thankfully), only ended up playing BF4 on a free EA Access weekend...glad I did not buy it ...bigger fool me for buying the Star Wars turd through not noticing Dice/EA plastered all over it....
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Hi there...in my mind the first thing is to get reliable battery power on the car.....look for a 6v battery pack...then upgrade servos..
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Two cylinder nitro engine......
in General - Nitro
Posted
You still do not get it though......with a belt/chain/gear there is a certain degree of error...with a crank there is a certain degree of error...tolerance...the crank will/should always have less tolerance the rest.
If you really want to think about multiple cylinder two stroke engines then look at how development happened in the motor bike racing world.