[XMAXX owners thread!]

So I have an issue and not sure what exactly might be the problem.  It turns really well to the left but really struggles turning right.  I did check that the trim is in the middle before anyone suggests that 😛  I had a look online and saw a suggestion that it might be the servo saver being too loose so I tightened it up, tried it, tightened it up again but it is still having the same issue and I have no clue how much I am supposed to tighten it up and I don't want to put undue stress on the ****ty servo it comes with.

 

Any advice?  I did fiddle with the trim and turned it all the way to the right but it really had little effect at all?

[XMAXX owners thread!]

1 hour ago, Kpowell911 said:

Might be the pinion coming loose. Ive had to re threadlock all of mine. 

Yeah I am hoping that might be the case, just haven't had chance to look yet 😉

Edit: yep it is just loose, will fix it later

[XMAXX owners thread!]

On 14/05/2023 at 04:13, SYST3M_OVERIDE said:

Buy a better servo (not the 2085X. It's a $100 POS), replace the servo saver spring with part# 7746X and be ready to buy new tires as it eats the stockers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Most importantly though...have fun.

Yeah I was looking at tyres coz I watched many videos and see people with badlands and trenchers but they seem really heavy, saw one video where guy switched and showed the difference in handling and it was quite severe.  Tyres are holding up fine at the moment but I have only been running it on grass near my house, I have been a bit careful when it leaves the ground as I read that that is a big cause of tyres blowing when you get all the power into one wheel.  I don't have any issues with the servo at the mo but I know it will burn out at some point.

I haven't checked yet but not sure if my spur gear has gone though as I lost drive yesterday and had the high whine of the motor not connecting,  I know it is a weak point as well, thought it would last longer than 40 mins though 😄 

 

Still happy I managed to do my first bit of soldering to get the new ESC in even if I put the wrong connectors on first 😄  I definitely did a better job on my second go anyway, was meant to be 🙂

[XMAXX owners thread!]

My Xmaxx arrived today \o/

I have bought a Max 6 ESC and am gonna replace that before I use it (good advice from Kpowell there 😉)  I went for some DXF softcase batteries in the end: https://dxf-hobby.store/en-gb/collections/softcase-4s/products/ukdxf-4s-lipo-battery-14-8v-10000mah-100c-200c-deans-t-xt90-ec5-for-rc-1-8-1-10-car-truck-tank-models-xxmax-8s-arrama?variant=42697256140963 I am hoping to get about 45 mins out of these.   Also got some drivecup sleeves.  Planning to sort it out this weekend as a few more bits from postie to arrive yet.

Planning to go gentle with it in the beginning, no skate parks till I get used to it.  Any tips for a new owner?

[XMAXX owners thread!]

30 minutes ago, Tadas said:

 

Will these fit in the stock slots or are you planning to do some chopping? 🙂   

hah that will be a big fat no to both 😄

 

Well back to googling

Edit: Think I will just go with the 6500's RC Review used them and seem to be decent.  If they don't last long enough I will just buy a second set 😉

[XMAXX owners thread!]

Hey dudes,

 

I will be joining this club in a few months and I am just looking into batteries.  I had quick search in this thread and the other threads on here first though 😉

 

I am wondering what mah values you guys run, I was planning on getting a couple of 9000+ batteries as I tend to go for walks with my dog when I go out and I was hoping this would get me to about 45 mins run time?

 

I read that changing the ESC will increase runtime but I was planning to start stock initially.

 

https://dxf-hobby.store/en-gb/collections/hardcase-4s-1/products/cndxf-high-voltage-4s-9200-mah-15-2-v-130c-batteria-lipo-ad-alta-capacita-hardcase-con-xt90-spina-per-1-8-scala-rc-auto-multi-rotore-rc-aeroplano-rc-elicottero-rc-barca

 

These are the ones I am considering at the moment.  Thought I would check in with this thread first though 😉

 

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

So the one thing that bugs me more than anything else is how quick I trash bodyshells 😞  My first one I did the scrim tape and shoe goo thing but it made no real difference to the longevity of the shell.  I actually trashed that one in less that 30 days.  Super noob at the skate park and the thing I was best at was landing it on the roof (my literal first jump I did landed on the wheelie bar and smashed that clean off 😄)  I have since got better but the the shells just don't last and they aren't exactly cheap either at 50 quid a pop.  The weak point is always the back two holes where you put the clips in.  So I did try glueing in a couple of washers to spread the shock more evenly but ultimately the back holes just give up.

 

I haven't reinforced the shells after the first and they lasted longer but mostly from me being more conservative with the driving.  Anyone got any tricks they have tried that actually work.  I am gonna try some foam, but not sure that will make much difference, especially as I need to put it somewhere that won't get in the way or melt  😄

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

So I ignored all your advice and went with this in the end: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B098QJGHY9/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item 😄

 

I put it in but the servo arm they provided was a tiny bit too big so I tried with the one I had, which got stripped relatively quickly.  So I dremelled the chassis out a smidgen and put the arm I got with the servo and working like a charm.

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

7 hours ago, Kpowell911 said:

Whats your budget?

Don't want to go mad, £40 should be enough right, can go higher if needs be?

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

Hi All,

 

Looks like I burnt out my servo and need to replace, been doing a bit of reading but not entirely sure what servo I should be gunning for, can anyone recommend one?  From what I read a 15kg one will do but I am more wondering if anyone has a brand preference.  I was gonna go for one from banggood but I think impatience might get the better of me and will order one from bezos 😄 but none of the ones on amazon look particularly great?

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

Well my noviceness is showing, I had the jumpers in the receiver the wrong way around.  The support guy identified the issue from a second video I made for him, flipped them round, bound the controller and then I managed to switch back to LiPo mode.  Happy days 😄

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

1 hour ago, Kpowell911 said:

With the throttle trim in the middle on your Transmitter.
 

Turn the Transmitter on with the ESC off.

 

Hold the small set button on the ESC

Turn on the ESC Power so it beeps constantly.

 

PRESS the set button again. In the video above you HELD the set button again, what happens if you press it.

So the transmitter is set up with 100% Throttle/Steering and both trims set to be in the middle (neutral) the rest is what I did in the video.
If I just press the set it just turns off the beeping and the LED.

 

It won't bind the controller at all, I have tried that and followed the instructions in the manual, I don't think it will do this until I can get the ESC back into LiPo mode but I am at a loss how you are supposed to do that as as you can see nothing happens.  If I could just get that LED back to green I would be a happy man 😞

 

Edit: I have e-mailed Reedy Product Support and linked the video, will see what they say

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

On 18/02/2023 at 23:30, Ross9999992 said:

@ridfrenzy Holding the button while turning the esc on is often a step towards recalibrating the throttle/brake endpoints so you may well have reset that. Things to try in this instance in order...

 

Check battery isn't below LVC (storage charge is fine)

Rebind tx/rx (just to be safe) - instructions should be in the manual

Set throttle trim to centre - again the manual if confused

Recalibrate endpoints - guess where to find out how to do this 🙂 

Turn esc off and then on again to ensure calibration is saved

Check the led for lipo/nimh - if you need to change it follow the instructions in your ss - hold the button for 6+ seconds to change it - green = lipo, red = nimh

 

That's usually the way to fix these kinds of gremlins...failing that if you still can't get things going then try to get a video of you showing the battery voltage and trying to change the lipo/nimh setting.

Hi Dude,

I tried all of the above so I have done a video like you asked, maybe I am doing something wrong, totally lost at this point, rather try to get it working than buy a new ESC but not looking good at this point. 🙂

 

I have tried three separate batteries but I have more I can try (the one in the video below is a 3S but does the exact same as a 2S), I also checked them on the charger and they look fine. 

 

 

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

On 02/02/2023 at 14:56, ridfrenzy said:

So I pressed the button next to the power switch as I didn't know what it did and now wish I hadn't 😄  I think it resets the transmitter but I have no idea how to set it back and my google fu is not working.  I found a video on youtube on how to do it for an MT8 but that definitely doesn't work or I am doing it wrong, not sure.

 

Anyone know a link with clear (and idiot proof) instructions on fixing this?  Or can explain with monosyllabic words for me to understand? 😄

 

I have found that holding the button on the switch and turning the power on makes the ESC beep and have a blinking red light, it is a static red light if I just turn it on.  I can't see anything in the manual about setting this? 

So I am still stuck on this, I can't get any signal from the remote to the car.  I think I have accidentally set the ESC to NiMH mode.  The LED is red on the ESC and the manual does state that it should be green if it is in LiPo mode.  I have followed the instructions which states to just turn on the controller and the ESC and hold the set button in for 4 seconds but this doesn't do anything 😞  I have tried holding the set button in when I turn it on and just turn it on normally and hold for 4 seconds but nothing seems to work.
 

I am wondering if I am supposed to have a NiMH battery to plug in to the ESC to be able to switch it?  Seems a bit daft that I would but I don't own any to try so thought I would ask for suggestions here first?

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

Thanks man, you are a star.  Would be nice if this was in the main manual 😄

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

So I pressed the button next to the power switch as I didn't know what it did and now wish I hadn't 😄  I think it resets the transmitter but I have no idea how to set it back and my google fu is not working.  I found a video on youtube on how to do it for an MT8 but that definitely doesn't work or I am doing it wrong, not sure.

 

Anyone know a link with clear (and idiot proof) instructions on fixing this?  Or can explain with monosyllabic words for me to understand? 😄

 

I have found that holding the button on the switch and turning the power on makes the ESC beep and have a blinking red light, it is a static red light if I just turn it on.  I can't see anything in the manual about setting this? 

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

10 hours ago, SWF said:

Best solution we found was to seal the holes in the rims with gaffe tape and vent the tyres. Water now gets flung out when running, or drains when stationary.

 

Hope everything is OK, I once fell in the canal when out running, had a bit of an upset tum for a few days!

What do you mean by "Vent", I saw some messages in previous post about putting holes in the tyre but I am liable to do more harm than good I reckon doing that?

No video, but plenty of witnesses and much chortling to be had 😛  I didn't get more than knee deep so no harm done, other than to my pride 😄

[Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.]

Soooooo if I accidentally drove my MT10 in the canal (may have also fallen in retrieving it 😄 ) and maybe got a teensy weensy bit of water in the tyres, is there any way to salvage them?  I have just squeezed them and left them to dry in warmest dryest room horizontally.  Any tips would be welcome?

 

It did get fully submerged and still worked fine so seems like water doesn't stop this beast either so far but my front wheels were a bit flappy afterwards 😄

[WL Toys Owners Thread]

39 minutes ago, Darren Frosty said:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004283463755.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis!GBP!￡1.18!￡1.18!!!!!%400b0a0ac216588228993765573ecdef!12000028623137128!sh&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.productList_2002961276890.pic_0

 

is that what you need?

That looks like it, thanks a lot dude 😄

[WL Toys Owners Thread]

I have a 124016 and have a bit of an issue that I am struggling to resolve.  I have bent one of the front pins that connect the swing arm to the chassis but the part isn't the same as the manual, it seems to be a screw with a pin that has a bolt the other side and I cannot find the part to replace it anywhere?  I bought a complete upgrade kit and even in that I don't seem to have anything that would replace this bit.

 

Does anyone have any advice that may help me?