JonnyUK
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Posts posted by JonnyUK
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The alloy chassis has two raised studs to keep the battery in place?
On a vantage I made those studs taller to stop the battery touching the centre shaft.
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4 hours ago, Asus27 said:
I know that dude I mean the image above 4ser one.
Yeah going to look for a manual online 👍🏻
Pretty sure it is regarding the cell count check. 'R' would be number of cells detected by the charger. 'S' for the number of cells you have chosen to charge.
Kind of a safety check, if the balance lead was faulty/damaged then the charger would think it was a 3 cell lipo etc. The charger asks you to confirm what it thinks you are charging.
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Always charge using balance charge. Fast charge won't be good for the lipo cells.
You might save a bit of time fast charging but at the cost of replacing batteries.
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I have the new Dumbo, not used it much yet until the summer but seems ok and has good features.
Be aware though that the 10 channel receiver is actually 9 usable channels.
The battery power is provided by plugging it into one of the channels hence 9 channels.
You can power it using one of the aircraft plugs so depends how you are going to use it.
I did have this out with Dumborc but they wouldn't accept that technically it isn't a ten channel receiver as advertised.
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Run it on 2s or be less aggressive with the acceleration.
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Skyrc also does the T200. Mains 240 and if you knock up a cable it'll also plug onto a 12v car battery.
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It's probably because of your new account and then heading straight to the buying/selling pages.
Facebook has programs scanning for things like that because it looks suspicious etc.
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You need to put a price on the post or it will likely get removed.
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I think speed runners are better if you live in the US. Wider roads and a hell of a lot more empty places.
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1 hour ago, Lone-wolf said:
wonder who will know where this was taken
Been there quite a few times for a walk. That is a hell of an incline you have to walk down. Once did it the other way in summer and up the winding narrow walled path and up the trolley run, won't be doing that again.
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A faulty spark plug won't spark when under compression. Had it a few times on motorbikes, cars etc. That's why most garage mechanics will first fit a set of spark plugs when fixing a non runner.
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Is there not a TV/radio/computer repair shop in the area?
Wouldn't cost much for them to solder the plugs on.
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Never liked chrome plastic wheels on RCs.
Main problem with Redcats and other makes is getting parts in the UK, ends up being a major headache.
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Our van gets dirtier going to Aldi lol 😁
Hose/jet wash underneath while it's still wet, thick mud is like concrete to get off once solid.
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I bought a Felony for getting into the speed runs scene, spent quite a bit upgrading parts etc, then realised there are no places suitable within 80 miles of my house. So sold it.
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The old Shell Oil Refinery on Anglesey.
I wanted to go for a look round years ago when some buildings were still there, sadly all gone today when we went for a nosey.
Took some photos of what is left of the pipework.
And yes, I did open the small valve in the middle and yes it started hissing! 🙄
The above shows the base of one of the eleven 'tanks'. Can just make out the curve of it in grey, huge things.
Bit of research online shows that some of the pipes led underground to the coast at Amlwch Port, a few miles away, where they would unload the large oil tankers using a floating pumping station.
After this was processed it was pumped down some other pipes which go all the way to Ellesmere Port, which is about 60 miles away. I believe the pipes are still present underground.
The land is currently for sale (203 acres), there were plans to build a prison 😕 originally but that changed to building a Centre Parcs 🤢
Now it's highly likely that it will be purchased by the government to build housing for the construction workers of the nearby nuclear power station, which is going to be rebuilt on the previous nuclear power station (Wylfa).
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What batteries are they?
Also what charger do you have?
You should really get a charger with balance charge and storage charge modes.
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1 hour ago, Yorkshireman said:
As stated above you can get lipo voltage checkers on ebay/amazon for just a few quid and they work well. A word of warning though, don't leave you lipos fully charged for more than a day or so....otherwise they will become stressed and balloon, which will ruin them.
☝️Ditto.
Best practice is to only charge the lipos on the morning of the day that you are going to use them. Once back home, put them all through the charger on the storage mode setting.
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Just don't leave it on too long or it'll blacken the aluminium.
A lot of people use it for cleaning full sized car gearboxes when they are removed, can blacken them also.
Not sure if it would be a good enough finish if you wanted the black aluminium look.
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2 hours ago, Mr Johnty said:
Does your wife realise that there is more chance of mobile phones, laptop batteries bursting into flames?
I know RC lipos need to be looked after and not mistreated, but be careful with them and they'll be fine.
Store them in a specially made storage box called 'Batsafe' and should the worse happen, the fire is contained. The only thing to exit through the filter in the lid would be hot white smoke. About £40 for the medium sized one and it holds at least 6 2s lipos.
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Last weekend up a 'hill'. Llandudno's Great Orme (207m) in the distance.
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28 minutes ago, wolfie1 said:
What i did for mine for charging the large hump pack was cut a very small slot in the lid and have the charging connector outside the box and charge it that way so i dont have to take the lid off all the time
👍 Yes I've seen in photos and youtube videos that most do that with the battery pack. I'll be using a couple of lipos when out, seems easier to not have to unscrew the lid each time I change the battery or charge them. The bigger gain is more room in the box for all of the wiring and electronics. Crammed wiring just means breakages in my mind. I might add some switchable lights in the future so will need room in there for the relay thingies.
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Can't finalise the wiring yet because I do need two new servos, one is ok but the other goes haywire when let go of the steering wheel. Don't want to risk burning anything out. Will have to wait until have the funds. So just been sorting a few other things.
Moved two of the plastic cross braces on the 'cage' so that it misses the larger air filter.
Then made the relocated battery tray out of some aluminium. I already have two 1300mAh 2s lipos which I use for the UDR's fans and lights. Made the tray a little larger in case I need to fit a larger battery. Its bolted to the steering brace so zero chance of movement.
And this is the receiver box from the other day, more room inside for the receiver, wiring, remote kill switch etc plus don't have the hassle of removing the top to change/remove the battery. Deans connector on outside plus a spare switch I had and two leds for power on and the Dynamite engine kill active or not.
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Hmm...
How much fun is it trying to sort something out with a manufacturer based in Japan/China, I reply during the day, they reply during the night, and repeat 😑
Anyways, they directed me to a video, in Chinese/Japanese, and it does show them wiring up the X10F receiver. They advised me that I'd done it wrong hence the video.
Looking at this photo of the receiver:
There are the ten channel sockets, external LED socket, PPM socket (something to do with flying autopilot), and B+ B- which I assumed was for battery + and -
It appears not, the B+ B- is for the battery voltage monitoring return to the transmitter.
No instructions in the box to explain any of this by the way.
This is a still from their official video:
The arrow shows where they power the receiver, in a channel socket, any of the ten sockets actually.
So the ten channel receiver is a nine channel receiver, ten channel transmitter, nine usable channels on the receiver.
I'm waiting to hear back from the 'official' Dumborc retailer but it would appear to me that they forgot to include a proper way of plugging a battery into the receiver when they designed it.
Figured I'm stuck with it now because they'll just claim I wired it up wrong etc, I will keep messaging though for a while and see where it gets to.
So I took the box apart out of curiosity and during testing with the probes I slipped and blew a tiny track. Managed to replace the track by soldering on a tiny wire.
Plugged in the battery how they show and it does work now, so that's good.
Looking at the board though I spot another potential problem. I specifically ordered the non gyro receiver because gyros cause problems with the remote kill switch failsafes.
The 'G' is the receiver with built in gyro, the casing is X10F not X10FG.
So either they use the same circuit boards but don't fit the gyro or its the same receiver but with a different sticker on the outside.
I have been trying to read the numbers on the chips and google them to see if any are a gyro chip, I'm presuming it would be a chip??
Not had any luck so it may of may not work with the remote kill switch.
I did get on with sorting the wiring and added the feed for the voltage return, switch, and soldering other cables etc. Then realised it won't fit in the box on the rc properly so Sunday I'm going to bin what I did and start over again. Think I'm going to go with having the lipo outside of the box so it'll give me more room to work with. Cramped wiring and vibrations are only going to lead to broken wires or fires. There are a couple of places I should be able to fit another box for the lipo.
Kraton centre diff - missing shims?
in General - Electric
Posted · Edited by JonnyUK
The shims on the outer bearing should be there to stop the bearing moving outwards (if this applies to that particular housing design). Sometimes these aren't fitted if it causes binding.
The other shims inside the diff should be there as they stop the rubber oring from being damaged by the rotating pin etc.