whitecitadel

Ok, found some suitable wire in the old RC box, it’s “ultimate” so must be good, stuck XT60 on as I find them easier than deans and ran it on the bench. Mesh is noisy with pinion and spur, think like others there are high spots so I backed it out fractionally and it seems better. Just bench testing so ignore cable spaghetti, eagle eyed readers will spot my latest problem that the receiver does not fit inside the box 🙄 The antenna have a rubber fitting and even though the receiver box is a bit deformed it’s not going easily fit once that’s sorted. Luckily I bought another 6 channel receiver with the transmitter so will see if it fits. Am I right that I should set some limits on the steering servo to avoid the most extreme angles on the drive shafts?

Hey that's my world record... 😉 Stupid job and family getting in the way of RC fun... still not soldered my motor up or sprayed the shell!

Soldering no issues, need to join the esc cables to new cables then solder those to the motor. I have some XT60 connectors and maybe some deans in the old rc box so will probably fit a connector between ESC and wires on the motor rather than join cables.

The latest in the world longest and slowest DC1 build is… the ESC motor leads don’t reach the motor. I should have thought about this and ordered some more cable, I think I have some suitable cable somewhere will have to go digging tomorrow else it’s yet another thing to order 🙄

Thanks, got that. I was not happy with the print above, too much "squish" in the first layer so I did more messing with the printer and re-printed again (won't clog thread wither further 3d printing nonsnse, but fitted BL Touch that had been in a box next to the printer for 6 months and went "all in" on making the thing work again). Asembled the shocks last night... and discovered the centre hole was too tight to fit the shock shaft 🤦‍♂️ Just filled the flat away one side on the kit piston and lined that up with the circlip instead and moved on with life for now. This is one of life's existential questions - what to put on scale number plates 😁 What lights did you get? (I got some simple LED ones from ModelSport that stormbringer used)

Thanks for vote of confidence stormbringer but to quote Stewy Griffin “VICTORY IS MINE” Took nozzle and feed tube out to clean gunk, YouTube says you blowtorch nozzle to melt out crud… which sounds fine but there were two spare nozzles next to me when I had found the box of tools/spares for the printer so cheated and put new clean nozzle in. Normal service is resumed. (brim was probably not needed but part of earlier desperation) One day might eventually have this crawler put together 🤣 Thanks to MrPeaski for the file. Just need to find some 1000 grit to fine tune the fit in the garage and shocks away

Very kind offer, but this has now descended into a battle to the death between me and the printer.... there can be only one...

That is assuming my relationship with the 3d printer ever recovers and I can print them! Had a go at lunch for 30 minutes, put in a different filament that has been reliable in the past and changed all print settings to ones suggested by MrPeaski and got further but still failed, there has to be science to it so will try a spare nozzle tonight if I can get 5 mins as its something to do with the way its extruding it seems. Ordered ESC from MS at lunch as well, so provided I get the shocks together it should be able to move by the weekend - just need to start on paint for the body as well.

Yeah I know, I tried to save £10 by ordering from afar (plus it also meant it was not on the big bill for the kit and most of stuff from MS the misses might see!) and it was a false economy. Will order from MS today, just trying to remember if there was anything else I need while I am paying postage... Yeah I wondered if too open! What weight comes in the kit... is it "mystery weight A" I wonder... it was just a first attempt - I might try @MrPeaski file as well as that seems more proven, and there is always file the flats on the kits pistons as well...

Thanks @MrPeaski for sharing, it didn’t take long to measure last night and just make a disc with hole in tinkercad and cut some bits out: unlike the rest of the internet I never had an issue with bed adhesion but today it just didn’t want to stick. Thought the junk white filament was using for the kids may have absorbed some moisture so opened a new yellow roll someone gave me but same issue. Refuse to resort to voodoo like glue stick as never had to before so just washed up the glass print bed with the dishes from dinner and will try again tomorrow 😉 even the purge line was not sticking so something up, have slowed the print speed down but will also try your settings as never printed anything this small on its own but it’s not sticking which is not print speed from past experience as default always stuck before. Frustrated ESC not left China still… might cancel and pay extra for UK source - although part of me says I will still be faffing with body painting for another week and have plenty of time for ESC to arrive. Keen to see it move now. Jack Reacher you got a really good deal on yours!

I know! Too tight, too loose! Paranoia took over and I 3D printed some 0.6mm shims this morning and opened the front axle from drove side, but when removing my plastic recycling shims and checking they measure 0.25mm… checked several times not sure what I did yesterday?! Carefully checked no play again and put it all back together and will leave it all alone now. Was definitely too tight and binding without any remedial solution. Printer always super reliable but now I want to just print some new shock pistons can’t seem to get anything at all to stick to the bed.

Yes wondering if I need something thinner, but it was really bound up and notchy… built axles up now will see if I can find a thinner plastic shim and might still replace it to be sure I have a tight mesh.

Thanks, I had to do the same in the end, even with very low torque on the diff cover bolts it was really tight and notchy and would have been load on motor and drivetrain. The bearing carriers had a moulding spur, placing this on pinion side helps but it was still way to tight. in the end I used 1.6-1.7mm plastic shims (on my eBay callipers) as that was the thickness of the most suitable plastic in the recycling bin. Feels smooth now, but not loose, and inserting solid driveshafts for rear I can feel no play so mesh seems ok. If its not perfect once run in I will go to plan b of taking some 1000 grit to the inside of the diff cover where it touches the bearing carriers. It’s acceptable right up until you tighten all the bolts fully.

Thanks, saw that on this thread and a review on EuroRC where they cut/filed another flat on the opposite side to factory one, going to give that a try. Need to solve my tight/binding diffs first 🙄 banggood have still not shipped my 1080 esc either… which is the last missing piece, impressed with injora though ordered last Thursday on their website direct and on my doorstep today a week later!

Not much love for the shocks! Not assembled mine yet, do the dual rate springs help? Might file down the piston like others did when assembling.

@MrPeaski sounds like the same thing I am seeing, so you put shim under bearing carrier to space crown out from the pinion (move diff outward in axle)? I also took it apart and 180 the carrier which helped but not enough. Strange thing is the diff looks central when viewed down the axle.

Assembled the axles tonight, once the diff covers are on the diff feels very “stiff and binding” more than I am happy with. Took it apart again and checked correctly assembled but still the same once re-assembled. Looking through the axle the centre of the crown is dead centre of axle so all looks correct - anyone else have this and did the pinion/crown “bed in” to be smoother with running?

I am parking the lights for now as I am losing track of what I ordered for which bit ... a bit.. will sort the lights later in detail, suspect I will end up with a lot of wires so will need to work it out on paper then cut the looms down and solder it to be neat🙂

Thanks, I had your winch ESC bookmarked already, I like the idea of running off the battery direct for the winch (or lightbar), but for a few quid I took a punt on one of these that run from the receiver to try: https://www.injora.com/products/winch-ch3-control-line-panel-for-1-10-rc-crawler When I get the winch I will multimeter it to see how much current it draws and decide if I want to use it or add more wiring for battery powered ESC option. I got 6channel radio on sale so not going the "garage door remote" route. Does the ESC you used give you speed control on the winch as well instead of just back/forward? Not found a decent lighting controller yet, not sure I want indicators but I like the idea of stop/reverse lights. Job for later, for now will just connect the headlights/rear lights to the ESC with supplied wiring as a starting point.

Ok, things progressing, was held up by motor, I saw the comments about setting the mesh and wanted to do it before fitting gearbox to the chassis - but actually it went ok in the end. Getting the gearbox holes to line up with chassis rail took some fiddling but got there in the end. Once all perfectly set and mounted I realised I did not burn in the motor first 🙄 Had a few of the link arm ends that were tight and needed some working to move freely. The shift servo of course does not fit the HoBao arm (I should have known this from everclears build thread) so need to mod that to finish that step still. Side trays were hassle to align, worried about stripping threaded hole in the chassis, in the end the side with the shift servo I took a small file to the rear most hole to just get clearance. Suspect the plastic parts have warped a bit in transit. No ESC yet (should ship tomorrow from China) so that's a problem, but RC has arrived and still need to build axle's and finish the shocks etc so no rush. Also need to paint the body... was worried about mixing CoreRC and Tamiya (Tamiya black was stock out everywhere) so managed to track down 2 cans of Tamiya black now so I don't have to mix brands. I can neither confirm nor deny that I may have also ordered a winch from China earlier today...

Hoping not to strip any gears! I kept coming back to the Holmes chart to the point of analysis paralysis, so just ordered the 15t and will see how it goes. Seemed 550 was better than 540 if you have the space like the DC1, so I ruled out the 540 options if only to make a decision quicker!

Special “CA” threadlock then! Will rip it all open tomorrow and realise I was fooled by chinglish instructions…

My view after a lot of recent research is that it’s a bit Betamax to the VHS TRX4. I was not prepared to spend TRX4 money and this seems really good value for what you get, and use for fun. More experts than me but the shocks seem to be the weak bit as noted above, you can see on youtube a lot of the videos it looks bouncy, if you read this thread others have made mods to make them better. Aftermarket parts are also limited, Traxxas has a huge range and 3rd party and they are all easily obtained …. For a price. Plenty of parts from Hobao, but things like the steering kit to put the servo on the axle are unobtainable here, not on eBay, options are eurorc (no vat option under £135) or HoBao US with $$ shipping and import.

Saw that ever clear and you had the 27t 3 slot, fancied trying the 5 slot for the “smooth” everyone talks about… my only other 550 experience was a early 90’s Tamika stock so everything is smooth by that yardstick 😄

Not opened it yet! That’s a really valid point if it’s threadlock in the bottle… equally the section suggests it’s the bring your own tools not what’s included bit. Just tipped out the packets from the box last night and read the instructions cover to cover. Put it all back in the box apart from the tyre foams… they were jammed sideways into the tyre and really deformed?! Left them out to re-shape before needed. Should probably not apply logic to the instructions but see what’s in the box - I get your point! If it is threadlock, won’t do much in those plastic link arm ends. In my defence, I had another project all over the garage bench, finished that up today and cleared up so ready to start this now.