oscart2005
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Posts posted by oscart2005
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Hi, wondering if there was any way of stopping the body posts snapping off the Carnage or reducing how much they do break?
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Hi, does anyone have any recommendations on 1:10th buggy wheels for the vantage as a did one small jump with it and all my spokes snapped, any recommendations for some pre-mounted sets?
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Just now, Ant.p said:
Mine are fantastic, but I’m worried to recommend them as I have been having no end of trouble with my front diff since fitting them. I now wonder if they are too large and heavy; adding too much additional strain to the drivetrain. Im not even getting through a single battery without taking teeth off the diff gears. My carnage is currently running rear wheel drive as a result, as I simply can’t be bothered to strip it all down again for 30 mins of bashing.
I have the vantage so the front ones are lighter so I think it should be a bit better?
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1 minute ago, Ant.p said:
Found some cheaper, so just edited the link. I’m not sure you can buy just 2 at a time?
I'll look around, are there any suggestions for wheels and tyres for buggies?
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1 minute ago, Iain .R said:
Iv got them on all 4 my cars as they are way better that the waste of space plastic ones . they slightest bit thicker so it moves the wheel away from the car just a wee bit and they nice tight fit so less chance the wheel turning in them.
2 minutes ago, Ant.p said:sorry for the ridiculously long link. They are the ones I got. Quite cheap and did the trick!
you don’t need to upgrade to alloy hub and knuckle but I chose to just because they look nice.
the original wheels aren’t great anyway, so replacing them is a good thing.
Okay cheers for the help👍
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Just now, Ant.p said:
sorry for the ridiculously long link. They are the ones I got. Quite cheap and did the trick!
you don’t need to upgrade to alloy hub and knuckle but I chose to just because they look nice.
the original wheels aren’t great anyway, so replacing them is a good thing.
Are the fastrax ones any good because I already have a rear set so I'll only need a front set?
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6 minutes ago, Ant.p said:
Blimey, looks like your wheels have been in contact with the knuckle arms and hubs. Have you changed from the stock wheels?
there are alloy 12mm hex nuts on eBay (amongst other places) which are slightly thicker than the original plastic ones, adding space between the wheels and hubs/knuckle arms. I purchased these after replacing my wheels with aftermarket as I could clearly see there was going to be a problem if I didn’t do anything - the wheels hardly turned so I had to do something!
I was only on the stock wheels, would it be worth getting the alloy hex's that ftx sell and the alloy knuckles because I have a feeling there was just a lot of heat that melted all the plastic bits around it?
I was doing a lot of drifting on a very dusty bit so that might have caused a lot of heat build up.
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Hi, I’ve been out with the vantage today and have somehow melted the wheel nut and hex into the wheel, the wheel fell off and it turned out the nut had melted through the wheel, I can’t seem to get the other one off either, it also seems to have started to happen to the front. I’ll attach some pictures, has anyone else had this happen?
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6 hours ago, Ant.p said:
Glad the thicker oil helped. I did it to mine on some good advice from the guys at Modelsport and it made all the difference for me.
The springs are more for the ride height than the dampening. Maybe try raising the collar a bit, so the spring doesn’t cause the car to bounce with aggressive rebound.
Yeah I did try it before but it seemed to sit really low at the front when I wound them up a bit
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2 hours ago, Ant.p said:
I’m curious... do you mind me asking why you would want to do this?
The shock towers at the rear are taller, so would make the back lower if you replaced with a ‘front’ shock? You could lower the ride height of the car by raising the threaded collar above the springs if this is what you’re trying to achieve?
After doing a fair bit of research looking into replacing my carnage shocks, I learnt that the stock shocks were actually good enough quality, but just not setup correctly for the added stresses given from the increased performance as a result of the more powerful motor etc. I found that the original shocks were massively improved by replacing the factory shock oil with a heavier weight. Stock is 30wt and I used 50wt when modifying the carnage.
14 hours ago, Gtiracer said:Anyone tried putting same length shocks on the back of the vantage as to what's on the front? Or does the longer ones at the back help keep the nose down a bit more for handling?
Are any of the shocks on banggood worth a go?
I also did thicker oil in the shocks and it definitely does help but the front does seem to bounce around a lot more on the vantage if the springs are wound all the way down, definitely a lot better though👍
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1 minute ago, capri-boy said:
May run 6s, with an appropriate KV motor, without issues. Personally I prefer running 4s and higher KV. Run times suffer but there's less torque issues than a 6s lower kv system - I find it more forgiving on the drivetrain, and getting lipos to fit is less problematic! Each to their own.
Okay cheers👍
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10 hours ago, Stormbringer said:
they are fairly robust buggy's
7 hours ago, collective itch said:They are great bashers, and great value
Okay thank you, can they take 6s power without problems or are there parts that need to be beefed up?
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Hi, I'm looking to buy a rolling chassis just for general bashing and just enjoying driving, are the hyper VSE's good for jumping and just messing around with or should I be looking elsewhere?
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51 minutes ago, Ant.p said:
Stock is 30wt I believe. I did all 4, but this was on my carnage, not a vantage.
I think I’ll get something in the middle or 30, cheers 👍
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11 minutes ago, Ant.p said:
I was told by Modelsport that there is no notable performance improvement with the FTX alloy shocks. Just a bit of bling!
I replaced the oil in my stock shocks with 50wt and it made the world of difference to the handling of the car.
Not so great on really rough ground at speed (wheels off the ground a little more) but generally a big improvement that copes better with the higher speeds and quicker acceleration from the upgraded motor and esc.
Is 50wt a thicker oil then stock ? And is it worth doing all 4 shocks or just doing what I need to do
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Hi, just blew up a front shock on my vantage, think I’d already bent the shaft on it, are the aluminium shocks worth it or should I just replace with plastic, also what oil is recommended for the front of these?
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9 hours ago, Redback said:
only if you drive once a month, if you have the car out every other day or so you should be ok keeping them topped up, anything over a week storage charge them 🙂
Okay cheers👍
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21 minutes ago, Ant.p said:
I’ve read through lots of forums on this. Some have done what you suggested, some have left them fully charged.
My advice, to keep the risks to an absolute minimum, is to to keep lipos (if not using within the following 24 hours) at storage voltage. If left charged or used for any period of time there is a greater chance of the battery puffing and/or fire.it does take an age to put them through a storage cycle, especially if you have more batteries than chargers, but the risk and potential damage to property is not worth taking. If you can leave the batteries in a fire bag, and if possible in an outbuilding (protected from frost) away from any combustibles, that is best.
I believe if the batteries are properly maintained the risk of fire is quite unlikely, but for me I would rather err on the side of caution.
Okay cheers 👍
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Hi, I’m new to using lipo batteries and every time I run them when I get home I storage charge them on my charger, do I need to do this every time I use them as it takes ages or can I leave time discharged until my next use?
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2 minutes ago, Gtiracer said:
Where do you get steel pinions of varying sizes and how are you supposed to know which cog size variations work together please?
I have the RW Racing ones from Modelsport and they seem to work well. If you go back to page 268 @Jenshas some calculations for gearing and there was a chat about how to choose the right gears there so I'd give that a read. If you mean like DP or MOD then from my experience I've bought 32DP spur and pinion and they work really well.
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2 minutes ago, Gtiracer said:
Thanks for the info,
I have the hardened spur and pinion but am yet to put them in, did you change from the standard cog sizes with your hobbywing?
Yeah, I now run a 47t spur and a 13t pinion, gives it a bit more top speed and still accelerates really fast.
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19 hours ago, Gtiracer said:
Can someone please tell me why the hobbyking motors are better than the standard brushless already included with my vantage?. For example, if I was to compare my etronix 2950kv Vs a hobbyking max10 3300kv combo, both on 3s, apart from the kv, what makes the hobbyking better, because by my extremely limited knowledge, a lower kv means more torque, meaning more acceleration correct? And a higher kv means a faster top speed? So can someone Lend me some Insight as to why the hobbyking is an actual improvement over the etronix please?
I am not doing speed runs, I just take it out for fun off road, acceleration is my fun factor, not top speed, although, obviously the overall top speed plays a part as I don't want it dead slow,
Hi, I run the hobbywing Max10 combo with the 4000Kv motor on 2s, ran it on 3s earlier with no faults, and its definitely fast enough and its a lot of fun. It is nice to have the temperature cut off just so that I don't have to check to see if the motor is to hot, would definitely recommend doing the upgrade, it feels a lot more solid and feels like it is better build quality than the stock system. If you do end up upgrading then you'll definitely need to do spur and pinion gear upgrades if you haven't already.👍
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4 minutes ago, Jens said:
Got it now. There were too many posts in between and of course my dinner.
Choose the pinion for 2S.
Once in a while on 3S should be ok with 2S pinion. It will just go faster.
If you change to 3S completely, change the pinion.
I don't believe that ESC/motor/pinion/spur will have a big problem.
Just the other drivetrain parts will have a bit more stress 9/10 times.
Okay cheers for the help👍
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Just now, Jens said:
I'm lost. I cannot relate your question.
Trying to choose gearing using your calculations from early, I want to run the car on 2s 9/10 times so should I base my calculations on the 2s voltage or should I go in the middle of the 2 and 3s calculations for a middle ground gear?
FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread
in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Posted
Okay cheers👍