Spunkymunky88
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Posts posted by Spunkymunky88
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On 03/02/2024 at 18:08, locky said:
Can ypu explain what slipping looks or sounds like? Did you have the diffs apart to change anything? Does it do the same when accelerating with wheels off ground, ie. no load.
I will try running it on my stand with no wheels on see what thats like it sounds like its a gear slipping somewhere under acceleration
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I have a corally jambo that I have had for about 2 years back end of last year i replaced all my drive cups to the spring steel options as i did that i changed all the dog bones since that happend there has been slipping during acceleration
The meshing is perfect checked the centre diff also had it at a couple of local modelshops and they cant identify where the problem is but i cant get the car to perform like its meant to because its slipping when you put the power down anyone got any ideas what it could be
I am running it on 6s
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19 hours ago, Alex97 said:
Velcro won't ever be enough due to the small size. What cars are you mounting it in?
Mt 10 and corally jambo also considering getting some form of street basher
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hi guys
recently i bought a sky rc performance analyser and tried it in 2 of my cars velcro strapped down to the batterys but its fallen out both times does anyone else use these and whats the best way you have found to mount it to multiple cars
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£75 to anyone
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Kyosho inferno mp 7.5 conversion for brushless roller comes with servo
£90 posted
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Thought I would update my progress on my corally jambo now complete every single drive shaft and now been changed and all out drives front rear and centre all now spring steel upgraded
Hopefully with these upgrades
When I play on 6s it doesn't rip the shafts and cups to pieces
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Thought I would share my progress in my corally jambo I have slowly but surely replacing all the drive shafts and cups and servicing all my diffs whilst at it just front left to do when i next get paid
So far I have replaced
4 drive shafts and 6 standard drive cups with 4 new drive shafts and 6 spring steel upgrade drive cups
I have always been scared of opening diffs but I decided to make the jump and attempt to do it my self and i'm glad I did
Not long to go now
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I am in the middle of building a nitro conversion of a kyosho inferno mp 7.5
I have realised there isn't enough space for my esc and battery tray in a normal fashion laid flat but it would hold a 3s on its side is there a reason being why no one makes a battery tray to hold one on its side?
or is there one I have not come across?
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The motor in my jambo has one on it
Thats what its all coming out of
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8 minutes ago, Bajadre said:
on a buggy prob around 14-16 i would think brother, larger for more topend like 17-19 i use on my truggy 👍
What about pitch?
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What about pitch?
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I feel like I am asking a dumb question here but I have googled and cant find info
so here goes
I am looking at buying a kyosho inferno 7.5 roller thats been converted from nitro to brushless
I am taking the electrics I all ready own from another car that i think its pointless repairing to put in to it
question is how do i work out what size pinion i need
I know my motor is a 5mm bore
But here's what I dont know
Number of teeth?
Pitch?
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It was prepainted but i had to cut it down and add stickers and strenghen it too pretty pleased with how it turned out
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link below has anyone tried these lipo batterys looking for some to run in my 6s jambo mostly
whats eveyone reccoment on the cheap side
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Pictured is my corally jambo i took it out tonight to a fairly flat field I dont bash it i just like to push its speed really i run it on 6s its as stock i snapped a drive shaft tonight when it stopped i realised both drive cups are like this i could understand if i was bashing it but i havent
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I have a corally jambo when I run it on 6s it seems to get a tad too hot in my opinion i have a sky rc fan on the can
Also seen this any one used this and know what fan fits in it?
C-00180-224
I gather from a listing elsewhere you have to drill into the chassis to fit it too
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i have a overlander 3s lipo and one of the cells is reading 0.00 is there any safe way to bring this to life chargers i own are sky rc t200 and a basic minstrel fast charger
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Not the best it could be but i finished it 😂
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The post holes are far from straight but the wheels dont catch so thats great im now putting dry wall on how much of this tape do i put on ?
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First time ever mounting a body shell trimmed all the excess off now need to cut a gap for wheelie bar and pierce holes with reemer for posts bit scared tbh 😂
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On 14/03/2023 at 10:16, totlxtc said:
If you are going to use mesh tape use the strong adhesive orange dry wall tape. Do not try to use the non adhesive stuff and the white weaker stuff is ok, but I find some shells it does not adhere very well to (Arrma silver coated was a nightmare).
Also make sure you use Shoe Goo original. Not Shoe Goo 2. OH and get some nitrile gloves as it gets everywhere and is hell to get off of your hands...its like the world most obnoxious sticky stuff. I spent an hour and half with soap, water, acetone, meths, white spirit...just hell.
On my race buggies I keep it simple with Killerbody aluminium tape.Oh bugger i have shoe goo 2 whats the diference
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Still got these offers accepted
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Whats the cheapest accurate way to mesaure how fast your rc car
Is cheap telemetary a thing
Corally jambo
in General - Electric
Posted
Update on this opened up the rear diff today and there looks to be shards of metal between the crown gear and bevel gear so heres where it must be slipping
For reference when i replace these in this bevel to crown is it supposed to be lubricated if so what with