lennylogknob
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Posts posted by lennylogknob
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23 hours ago, Jonmurgie said:
From eBay but as I say they are empty apart from 1 so you’ll likely need to buy some oil too!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234068297743
Piston pushed up, dry as a bone in there…
I bought some and they were the same.
Worst thing was that when I put some oil in two of them leaked it out.
Waste of cash for me, hopefully you'll get lucky. -
On 23/04/2022 at 09:47, Microspeed said:
Get on Amazon and search for 16889, looks like someone missed a 1 off the price, it’s up for £36 + p&p. I’ve already got three, one stock, one brushless, one in bits, so can’t really justify more, so maybe you guys can grab a bargain?
It does say brushless and the pics back it up.no idea how it works if it is a typo but I doubt Amazon would care much…….
Thanks for the tip.
Ordered one and allegedly it's on the way, so let's see what turns up (if anything).It looks like they're now 'unavailable'.
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19 minutes ago, walkbythesea said:
One of the best bits you’ll ever buy
Agreed.
Well worth the investment.
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I think you're looking at the wrong end. That's the end you'll have to cut off to fit it.
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I think it's all brilliant.
I never expected to enjoy fixing it more than driving it but at least that means I don't worry about smashing it nowadays.
I can't begin to imagine how many broken front suspension arms I've had (but thankfully none since I put the aluminium ones on).
I reckon I could change an arm in less than five minutes now after all the practise I've had!
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On 28/12/2020 at 12:02, Steve_01 said:
I think from the pictures below I would need to use the 4 screws as indicated. I also think that from the exploded picture these are FTX6536. - Flat head screws 3*10. Now for the stupid question - I'm guessing I'd need to replace these screws with something a little longer - 3*12? And the next stupid question - is it important that these are FTX? I'm guessing a screw is a screw, but since I need to order these I'd prefer to know I'm getting the right thing, rather than trial and error.
Thanks in advance
Hi Steve,
The honest answer is I don't know!
I fitted that bumper this way a couple of years ago and don't remember it causing me any hassle so I presume I fitted it with the original screws.
If you're going to fit it to the front of a plastic chassis then you're going to have to cut it down to go around those raised sections too but that should be easy enough.
A screw is a screw and mine has a collection of various M3 screws from various sources nowadays as it's been apart many, many times. I've found the FTX screws to be a bit rubbish and the hex easily rounds off so I'd rather replace them all with something else if I had the choice. (If you do manage to round one off then it's possible to tap a appropriately sized torx/spline into the hole to get the screw out.)
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4 hours ago, wateroftyne said:
Appreciate the honesty. That's how it's looking to my untrained eye, too. I'm slightly stressed at the thought of the work involved, but how hard can it be? 😬
Is there any mileage in going for an aluminium chassis? I'm just wondering if the break at the front of the chassis is a bit of a weak spot.?
Thanks for your help.
Changing the chassis isn't actually such a bad job.
Just get the whole thing upside down and steady then remove all the screws at once, remove the chassis and fit the new one.
If that sound too scary then cut the front 5mm or so (the broken bit in front of the front gearbox) off your current chassis and get hold of one of these...
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-chassis-front-part-vantage/rc-car-products/365785...cut this down to fit then fix it in place using the four screws that hold the front gearbox to the chassis.
This will leave the bottom fixing for the bumper a couple of mm lower but there's enough flex in the bumper for it to fit.
The other bonus of this is that if the same thing happens again then it'll only cost a couple of quid to fix.
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5 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:
My son had had his Carnage 2.0 for three days, and has already found the only lamppost within two miles. Basically the front bumper has snapped off. I'm a bit worried as the chassis seems to have been damaged where it's broken away.
Just wondering what my options are...?
Possibly use a Vantage front chassis section like I used on the rear in the pics above?
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8 hours ago, Iain .R said:
Hi what or where did you get that T bone bumper .as I would love to have one on mine .
I got really lucky with it.
The postage from T-Bone in the States is usually a fortune but they had an offer on where the gave free postage and hadn't excluded the UK.
I ordered the bumper and they delivered it (but they changed the offer the day after I made my order so it must have been a cock-up at their end).I've also managed to fit the original front bumper to the rear of mine using the front chassis section of an FTX Vantage...
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21 hours ago, Iain .R said:
Do you have a alloy chassis as well or plastic .
I changed to aluminium after snapping a couple of plastic ones.
It's true that the suspension holders are the first weak link in the Carnage set up and the more aluminium parts you throw at the problem the further along the line you chase the weak link. But having said that, the level of abuse it can put up with gets higher with each addition.
Mine's quite a tough thing now and I've bounced it off all manner of things recently with no problems at all.
I managed to get a T-Bone front bumper for it too and that's amazing. I can hit something solid at full chat and it just springs off in the opposite direction!Perhaps I should learn to drive properly and save myself a fortune but where's the fun in that?
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I'm a proper fan of the aluminium suspension holders and arms on the front (no need for the rears).
I used to snap the plastic ones very regularly (as I'm a rubbish driver) but I've had no hassle with the aluminium ones and it's been over a year since I fitted them.-
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Me & my boy got through bodyshells galore in the early days.
I once spent a week of spare time painting up a clear Bugsta shell for him and it didn't last two minutes. It was like it was made out of Pringles.His current Bugsta shell has lasted a couple of years as I taped the whole inside up with a couple of layers of Gorilla Tape before fitting it. It's really quite tough.
(I replaced mine with a Pro-Line shell which has also done a couple of years but cost a lot more than a roll of Gorilla Tape)
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That is absolutely excellent. Thanks.
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21 hours ago, Nickarla said:
I’m sure it works well but for me it’s just too ugly.
There's no denying that!.
'Function' rather than 'form' I think.My problem is that I'm a bit of a terrible driver and there's not a lot of chassis left for me to attach the standard bumper to (and it's not that long ago that I replaced the chassis).
I see that the T-bone bumper fits to the front gearbox screws. I reckon that I'll snap the chassis again following my first smash!
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I've just ordered a T-Bone Racing front bumper for mine.
There's an offer on their website at the moment saying that you can get free postage if you register.
I didn't expect it to work for the UK but it seems to have done. It was the $22 postage that had put me off previously - the bumper itself is only about six quid!
https://tboneracing.net/products/20000-tbr-basher-front-bumper-ftx-carnage-truggy
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Count me in for some if you manage it.
I've just rebuilt my front diff for the umpteenth time but I know it'll not be the last time.
On the plus side I can now do it blindfolded. -
Addwhite that looks absolutely superb.
Do the Firestorm wheels fit straight on? -
8 hours ago, Nickarla said:
Daveyboi those look good but what people are really needing for their FTXs are the gearbox gears, (crown and pinion).
He's absolutely right. I destroyed another front one yesterday.
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7 hours ago, Nickarla said:
At £15 for crown and pinion I would jump at the chance. For £38 it would be too much.
I'd agree with that. I'd want to do the car (front and rear) for about £30 - £40.
If it worked out at £30 per car then I'd do the boy's Bugsta too (although his is brushed and has never had this problem). -
You can count me in too.
I'd take four if they were available (two Bugstas in our house).
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In my experience these...
...seem to be made of cheese.
I bet I've replaced half a dozen of them over the last couple of years.
I've also replaced a couple of stripped plastic spurs which is why I changed to a metal one.
I haven't noticed breaking the diff drive spurs any more regularly since changing to a metal spur. I find that they lose teeth regardless. The front one in particular.
I suppose it happens when I smash one of the front wheels into something solid at full pelt (as usual). If that's the case then I'd think that a plastic spur gear is probably too far down the drive-train to take the impact and sacrifice itself for the greater good.
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Or buy a metal one and never have to replace it again?...
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It's a bit battered now but it's had a hard life.
I've Gorilla taped the inside which has certainly helped but there's a huge difference in quality and thickness between the Pro-line and the original shell.
Worst smash was absolutely flat out into a concrete fence post. Broke the front bumper, most of the front suspension, and snapped the chassis but the shell escaped with a 10mm crack.
It's spent so much time sliding along the road upside down that it's worn the back corners through though!
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I would've been nice to find another Beetle shell to fit but I couldn't find one that was anywhere near the right dimensions.
I must've got through half a dozen Bugsta shells in 3 or 4 months. I think they're made of prawn crackers.
FTX Tracer / HBX 16890?
in Micro & Mini
Posted
...in fact I bought the same ones from the same seller. That's my 1 star review on the Ebay ad!