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Posts posted by HSKzz
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18 minutes ago, Gavster29 said:
Is that the standard set off an st? They look big enough, reason I ask is the Hyper 7 one is too small as I have the standard skinny ones, the new shocks are off the st
Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk
Av got a full set of mint Hyper ST pro shocks, might be able to use one off them? Or you could buy the whole set?
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This is it running, although it wont have that engine lol
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What would be a good price for a quite well conditioned Hyper PBS?
Diffs serviced, new bearings all round (Only wheel hub ones fitted), 6KG throttle servo (No steering), no engine but exhaust pipe is included, okayish wheels and tires (Two sets, two wheels of each set are okay, the others fairly bald) 27mhz radio set, no shell. Basically a roller with a few extras...Thanks
Matthew
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38 minutes ago, dazp1976 said:
There's what looks like M1.0 + M2.0 at the bottom of the size list here:
M1.0 ent cheap tho!!!!
M2 here but again those small sizes ent cheap:
I favour the grinding idea, Also some grub screws don't have much of a surface contact area the way they are made like these below.
The indentation of the contact area means there is hardly any surface contact causing it to slip. I found this the case with pinions until I got longer screws and ground the ends down so they were near perfectly flat, made a huge difference and no more slippage. Worth a look.
Jesus you weren't kidding £5 for 10 of the little buggers lol. Thanks for finding them haha. I think I'll get the rod before them to make sure I have the right size
26 minutes ago, ExLimeyBasher said:I use the Cen Racing steel collars GS272 and replace the 3mm grub screw with a short socket head cap screw so the hex is bigger, those 3mm grub screws strip the hex easily. I am only a basher so not worried about the extra weight. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CEN-GS272-Rod-Stopper-4-for-their-GSR-5-0-GST-7-7-Nemesis-7-7-Monster-Trucks-/231389536808
Yeah that seems like a good idea, i'll have a look into them a bit more.
I think I am probably going to go down the threaded rod route as It would make adjustment easier if I ever needed to. Plus I think they would hold up over time a bit better.
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1 minute ago, dazp1976 said:
Could try wrapping some very small elastic bands tight round the blue bits and the bar.
What I would do is (if your eyes are better than mine) is... Once you work out where you want it to fit take it back off and grind a small flat spot on the bar with a dremmel. When you put it back on with threadlock on the set screw the flat spot should stop it sliding off.
Worth a try if it's c**p anyway.
Yeah I was about to do the whole grinding a flat spot in it. I couldn't be bothered to get the compressor out for the die grinder haha, so I ended up just bending the ends of the rods up right where the blue bits where so they couldn't back off. They just keep catching on things tho :/
I might just buy some M1 and M2 threaded rod and see what I can do lol, trouble is I can't seem to find nuts that are small enough
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5 minutes ago, m1tch_87 said:
I am in Hertfordshire, I will try and sort a few things out myself though, I will try and reset the carb to factory again and work from there, will also ensure that the tank is airtight.
I'm about half hour away from you, dunno if there is anyone closer?
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I'm about half hour away from you, dunno if there is anyone closer?
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I have recently purchased this linkage set for my buggy http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-pro-throttle-brake-linkage-set-black/rc-car-products/30633
All I can say is that it's pretty much made out of cheese grade parts lol. Within 10 mins of my car running on a flat grassy field (Not even going fast as still breaking it in) I had problems with the clamp things (Blue things in the picture) coming lose. One to the point that I had lost the whole rod set on the bottom brake set. The others just coming lose so the throttle and brake that was remaining would only be pulled about 2mm.
Rather than buying it again hoping for something to be different. I was thinking of just making something out of lock washers and threaded rod. Just to keep everything in place and no chance of it moving.
Has anyone done this before? (i'm guessing so lol) If so what did you use? M1 threaded rod? M2? Etc...
Thanks
Matthew
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Right got a new engine coming tomorrow with any luck... As well as some 20% fuel and a new throttle linkage set! Should be able to go for a bash at the weekend... After the long task of breaking the engine in xD
This sound like a good procedure?
Start it up and let it idle for 10-15 mins, top up fuel tank. Then onto 1/4 throttle up and down passes, 2nd and 3rd thank doing 1/2 throttle up and down. Then 4th and 5th tanks just going from idle up to full throttle gradually?
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57 minutes ago, Anthoop said:
It is ok...but 99 quid....mmm...if it has the clutch/flywheel/carb/exhaust and you need all that then go for it....but do you need all that? What are you replacing?
It's to drop in my hyper 7, I defiantly need the flywheel, clutch etc as well as the pull start too. I do already have two exhausts but one is very old, the other I have no idea what condition it's in as it came with the car. Also comes with engine mounts too, although i'm unsure as to whether they will fit the hyper chassis :/
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3 minutes ago, Anthoop said:
A friend of mine had one many years ago and asked me to tune it.....he was new and he knew me..... I thought it was ok, easy to tune and adequate performance... just a Force engine.
Ahh right okay, did it feel like it was a good built quality? I've never really heard much about Ansmann.
I've seen one on ebay brand new, with clutch, bell gear, exhaust ect ect not even had the warning stickers taken off. It's a £99, is that a good price? Or should I try for less really?
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What do people think about the Ansmann Racing AR-21 engine?
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I know they're not supposed to spin like really easy. It's not even like it's a little bit tight at the top. You can move it about 1/4 turn before I physically can't turn it any more. You would have to see it to know why I am so ****** with it.
I've received something that I wasn't aware of what I was buying. I shouldn't have to sit there for hours on end of my time trying to fix a problem that I wasn't aware I was buying.
What if I had stripped it down and found out the piston/liner needed replacing for a new one? I would have thought they would be more than £25. Then I've spent £50+ on the engine by then I could have bought a brand new SH engine...
Sorry if that sounds a bit angry lol
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10 hours ago, NG15 said:
You bought a used nitro engine for 25 quid and expected it to work lol. From my experience with nitro engine just but them new u less it's off someone who knows what their doing. There too finerky and if they haven't be looked after are just going to be a PITA
I never said that I expected it to work in 100% perfect order. Its just the fact that the advert says "turns over freely" and it is as stiff as anything. Just a really bad advert and I didnt feel like I bought what I saw
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So I took delivery of that engine for £25... Well all I can say is I have asked the seller for a return address...
In the advert it says "turns over freely" well now when I tried to turn it over by hand I felt like I was about to snap something, it turned a little bit but I bet it was very close to seizing up last time it was ran.
Mentioned nothing about the carb being rust welded together causing it to be seized.
Nothing about a massive chunk out of the fuel tank etc. It goes on.
Fair enough the seller did offer me a refund and said they didn't know much about nitros. Some times it's just common sense...
Rant over... Lol
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20 minutes ago, BK67 said:
I bough an hobao ss .28 last year ran it in properly but could'nt tune it tried everything sealed it but still wouldnt tune in the end it just would just rev its head off,i gave up in the end
my son has a kyosho ke .21 engine runs superb easy to start and idle's perfectly and he loves it
Yeah that's what everyone says about them pretty much, especially when people go to buy a new Hyper 7 with the Force .28 because it's the same price most places as the .21 thinking that it must be better as it's bigger lol.
We've got the little Kyosho .12 engine in one and they are bullet proof!! Step dad wants to find a cheap enough .15 one to drop in there lol
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3 minutes ago, BK67 said:
Looks good but ive had a bad experience with a .28 emgine so i'll only be sticking to .21 from now on
Yeah I have heard various things about the Force .28 engine, it's hard to get it to hold a reliable tune or it's prone to getting air leaks :/
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44 minutes ago, Burridge said:
Is it me or are snap on getting abit **** now? Hearing more and more bad things about their stuff :|
Yeah ive heaed loads of things about their ratchets being really crap. We've got loads of things from them that are a good 10 year plus old and still going strong. So it goes to show
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Ahh yeah we have one if them and I've slipped it on some wheel nuts before and with all my strength punched the floor and broke a knuckle Hope it gets better soon must suck lol
The bolts that go through the chassis into the engine mount. I think they're something like M4x8 although not too sure
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24 minutes ago, mickturnip said:
Whats your budget for engine
I forgot about this post... I already have an engine sorry haha.22 minutes ago, sunny said:I have etronix set same as flysky rebranded £16 posted
I'll PM you in a sec
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Ahh ****... How did you manage to do that? I know how you feel I haven't had a working nitro since last summer. Itching to get back on top of it this year lol
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Haha I know they are supposed to be easy... I get confused with them... Which is weird considering that I have always played with console controllers for like 15 years which is similar and yet I can't do it in real life... xD Can't wait to start my other job week after next then I might save up for a Hyper SS Truggy
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Yeah I hear what you're saying but I should have enough to cover it. Plus it's the stick control layout and for the life of me I cannot use it as well as the wheel and trigger. I'll probably give it to my step dad as it's slightly better than the one he has at the moment. It's also the whole it takes 8AA batteries and I only have 8 good ones... 4 of which are in the car lol
HN X2 E Brushless Motor Mount
in Wanted
Posted
Has any one got a decent motor mount to fit a Hong Nor X2?
Thanks