crazyfrog
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Posts posted by crazyfrog
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That’s not a wltoys
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It will be there’s loads of brands that use rebranded flysky they get some hate but I love them so cheap they even make a receiver with a gyro which really helps to keep a car straight.
Really important the gt3b uses a cheap linear regulator which basically acts as a resistor by burning off voltage as heat, you can replace that very standard part with a D.C./D.C. converter that half’s power draw from 100ma to 50ma it doesn’t sound like much but my transmitter batteries basically last forever now. If you decide to go for it check my post below and remember to get the dd412sa without legs it’s far quicker to solder in.
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What battery tray was used for this please?
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On 09/07/2021 at 21:15, bishbashbosh said:
Clickbait
No unless you're dyslexic
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Ok so I’ve noticed a few times on old nitros when I’ve been breaking aluminium Chassis bolts I get a spark. Has anyone had actual flames from this on the workbench?
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Maverick is a budget brand really they’ve rebadged HSP and all sorts. HPI don’t really release cars anymore so it’s interesting to see the designs under maverick.
My advice for the 1/10 scale monster truck is the parts are weedy and will break easy and handle badly. A 1/8 buggy will do everything better
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Just now, walkbythesea said:
Blimey, I didn’t know ANYONE had ever succeeded in finishing a magazine kit build of any sort, you did say nearly complete…. 😂
With the cost of the magazines I always figured these things must end up costing about £5k for a very average model though…. 🤷♂️
Yeah it’s incomplete it’s obviously missing bodyshell, radio system, servos, tools and nitro fuel but there might be some smaller parts I’ve not identified but there’s a lot here and certainly some interested or with a decent local shop could complete.
it’s made by thunder tiger I think 1/10 scale.
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I don’t know if anyone’s interested for nostalgia or wondering anyone ever built that Magazine kit from 2004 but I just bought a near complete one from someone locally. I do have it on eBay at the time of writing but I thought some enthusiasts would be interested in the photos.
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On 01/01/2021 at 16:05, GMballistic said:
I use a Weller mains powered 40w and it's more than good enough to do everything I've thrown at it from XT90's to 8mm bullets & 8Awg wire.
Some bad advice and severe lack of knowledge on this thread.
So modern irons have the advantage of temperature control and having the heating element much closer to the tip. An old fashioned 40w iron requires more heating time and do a really bad job of getting heat into both surfaces so solder can stick often needing excessive heat to work.
For a cheap iron go for the Amazon stuff with a temperature dial they outperform old fashioned irons with a heater element closer to the tip, for decent go for KSGER T12 with a few tips on aliexpress the element is built into the tip and temp controller. Similar to the t12 and more multipurpose is Banggood ts100 it’s toy size but can be run off most power sources. Pinecil basically same as ts100.
For better branded irons Hako make those and supposedly a value brand but just ignore.For solder leaded is better it flows better with stronger joints but the fumes are really bad, non leaded is significantly better in that regard but both work much better with rosin flux and that has horrific fumes.
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6 hours ago, Fideres said:
Hi all, just wondering if the Kyosho Inferno 7.5 can interchange parts with any other models? to help keep it running. Thanks.
What parts? Mp7.5 is the most cloned model ever with most buggies being based off it which doesn’t mean parts are compatible. Generally I’d say no and to just 3D print plastics in nylon.
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£359 is a bit all in. I prefer buggies over truggies as the narrower wheelbase is so much more controlled and less clumsy.
if you’re just getting back into the hobby try a wltoys 144001 brushed it’s much smaller but costs nothing in comparison and very zippy.
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Slight detour I wanted a spare flysky controller and have 8 Ikea ladda(same as eneloop) batteries spare. As the 8 cell flysky transmitters all have 78m05 linear regulators I decided to replace with a DD4012SH buck converter which are 76-90% efficient with a lower dropout voltage vs 40% efficient.
These are pin compatible so I snipped the old regulator legs at the top of the thin part and slid the DD4012SH onto the old legs. And yes I did use flux
Controller now uses much less power so the batteries last ages though the low power alarm still comes on at the same point.
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Just now, Fideres said:
Hi thanks for the info crazyfrog it's nice to know that about the HPI Trophy's although I ended up getting an Ansmann Virus 2.0 nitro for a good deal in the end, I like the looks of it and have read good things so I thought ill give it ago, it's a project to me as it could do with scrubbing up and some new parts, I like fixer uppers and I'm still learning nitro so this was ideal for me.
Ansmann virus Discontinued several years ago, not much difference in those but they’re both based on kyosho mp7.5 with force engines
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1 minute ago, Fred barlow said:
Oh yeah going full metal without introducing sacrificial failure points would just be asking for trouble.
The car I'm working on now the wishbones are injection moulded re-enforced nylon at the front are 1/4” thick and the rears are about 1/2" and they break quite easy which makes me question if nylon+ filament would do,
Yeah don't get me wrong I'm planning on getting a 3d printer (iv got an idea list as long as my arm I want to do with one) but I want to play with this alloy filament that's been developed it sounds like a good step forward
Believe me you don’t have the attention span to work on exotic filaments dealing with printer issues takes hours.
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1 minute ago, johnboybelfast said:
A warning for posting the same thing twice??? It's a mistake IV never heard the like of it bro ...and people can do as they wish with there engines there's plenty of professional racers that post videos on YouTube of breaking down brand new reds engines etc there's no no rules around this so chill brother
Lol your attitudes so bad just bc you can’t use a forum.
I haven’t stated he can’t do it just that you’re not supposed to and the reason why.
You obviously don’t understand the difference between an old worn engine and a new one or you wouldn’t have brought up YouTube videos without a source or link.
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3 hours ago, Fred barlow said:
@crazyfrog yeah 3d printing is a great bit of kit but personally I much prefer to do bits that are under high loads out of metals (it helps I work in engineering) the electric conversions I'm doing now are 1970s cars which need re-engineering, I think we'd all love a cmm or 3d scanner it would make so much easier but remember Concorde was designed with a pencil and sliderule
Meh cars benefit more from being lightweight but there are a few parts that need to be metal eg the motor Mount and steering knuckles. Specifically the lower suspension arms and front hub carriers would make sense to be metal but in a crash situation I’d rather those parts to be softer plastic so they don’t take out half the car.
I have to admit I don’t want to use standard PLA which is why I’ll be doing final prints in nylon(possibly carbon reinforced). -
13 minutes ago, bishbashbosh said:
Nicely printed parts! I bet having your own 3d printer is ace for this hobby.
Well I've had a wheel off - looks like a bush and no bearing with plenty of play. Bearings would definitely help here but that's an upgrade should I get it running.
Also straightened a bent exhaust and fixed the order of the spring spacers as 2 were wrong. Rest of the car doesn't look badly built although engine was full of water!
Next up need a fuel tank, fuel and starter and I can see if it runs.
In theory. Modelling the parts for the brushless conversion I’m tackling requires a ton of measuring. I really wish I had a digitiser arm or something as it’s taking ages with calipers.
Yeah thought so it makes a really big difference on dialled cars say new electric ones but for old nitros it’s just going to eliminate play.
I’ve been ordering from this aliexpress seller for a while and made sure to buy 2rs Abec 5 and everything’s been solid on bikes and RC parts. Obviously that’s the common size for 1/8 cars you will have to measure your bushings and hubs.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vZ4SRt -
27 minutes ago, Fred barlow said:
The gx15 / gx12 was the standard engine for the 1/10 kyosho on road cars of that period so you could be lucky and find some new bits, there is a designation for the chassis it's self which would make parts easier to find (I can't remember it though)
We are in an era where parts can be printed so not as big a deal as it was 5 years ago.Below I’ve printed a prototype diff holder for a hpi trophy truggy and decided to add some chassis reinforcement while I’m making custom parts.
I have just changed my 3D printers hot end so the prototype parts are very rough only 40 degrees Celsius too hot.
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6 hours ago, froggy8 said:
its fine, i have took it all apart and cleaned it then put it back together again with no problems.
the only thing i did was put engine sealant on the carb and backplate.
Thats the thing you’re not meant to use sealant that’s what o rings are for and they do a better job. Sealant can break down over time and get into spinning parts of the engine.
More so you’ve got a caked engine it’s more than likely you’ve had a leak.
5 minutes ago, johnboybelfast said:IV been doing this for 20 years now never had to replace an o ring once luckily... And I believe it's a necessary part of maintenance after putting a fue gal of fuel through the block plus it's good to understand how things work and know how to replace engine internals 😁👌
You’ve not been using the internet as long double posting some forum moderators would give you a warning for that.
Nitro engines can usually still run with bad seals but they get difficult to keep running and users just assume nitros are like that or just state it’s fine for them.
Most the time simply taking the carb off and putting it back it’s fine but when we’re talking about a full tear down on an old engine were every metal gasket and o ring is compromised it’s worth replacing the o rings and bearings for that matter.
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You’re not meant to take engines apart this far unless you’re buying new gaskets and o rings, HPI don’t supply engine o rings but use hard to get a hold of cheaply Japanese industrial standard (JIS) on the car itself so if you find the sizes please let the community know here.
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I wouldn’t know pal but I’d guess that car would be around 2000 as old smartechs look like they used that design.
for a fuel tank anything that will fit is fine but that’s easier said than done as you might be best making an adapter plate then you can fit something new.
It’s probably worth taking a wheel off and checking if you have bearings or copper bushings. If you have copper bushings I’d replace them for Abec 5 bearings(I can give you a cheap international link) they will last longer and likely get rid of a lot of play in the turning parts. -
A starter box is your easy universal way of starting a nitro car.
For pullstarts you want original manufacturer or Kevlar cord and make sure you flush your carb with some solvent before doing anything.
For rotostarts HSP uses same bolt pattern as a lot of engines including force engines and they post the dimensions on ads. eBay is fine for local but if you’re after cheap aliexpress is the actual source for these where can buy more directly from manufacturers where they have original listings with schematics vs copy/paste on eBay.
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On 18/06/2021 at 23:33, Nitroholic said:
For a first 1/8 buggy..... you won;t go far wrong with a Hobao Hyper 7.
You can buy Hobao cars cheap but the parts have traditionally been a bit more expensive than competitors and available in less stores due to the vintage.
I’d really recommend a used hpi trophy buggy or hot bodies lightning(same thing). It was originally cloned from an old kyosho as Carson king of dirt but has been rebranded a few times with near zero part changes on the nitro.The biggest change I’ve noticed has been the bodyshell/mudguard shape it was changed under hot bodies to resemble the kyosho mp7.5 less which it was cloned from. Everything fits the same chassis from Carson to hot bodes to hpi racing.
PS I started on a smartech and even when the parts were new they had multiple revisions and parts had to be ordered from China/Australia. The only way to continue running one now would be a parts car off eBay or 3D printing everything in nylon. For the engine you just need an air compressor and o rings to fix seals to be fai -
Help?
in General RC
Dont be fooled by the wing and buggy wheels 1/10 scale nitros are extremely fast and will fall apart if you start taking them off road.
Wheel nut bolts coming loose on RC car
in General - Electric
Posted
Absolutely not that can damage the threads.