Joeloliver
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Posts posted by Joeloliver
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It was the plastic case on the Hump pack that caught on fire. Charged at the correct amps. Bought from eBay so could have been dodgy supplier.
I used a starter box after running in a lot to get it started so that may have contributed to the broken conrod. I am not sure as I am still new to the hobby.
HPI customer service have been brilliant, outstanding in fact.. Still love the truggy. But I keep hearing stories about hyper 7 an people having them for years without issues. Maybe I have just been unlucky. I am still unsure if i should sell the truggy and try a hyper. My son has an Firestorm but electric seems less manly. I love the noise and smoke of Nitro. Happy to trade up to a Losi XXL if there are plenty of parts and more reliable.
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Thanks people seem happy with Hyper 7's and Losi but I can't see many parts for Losi's
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Is it normal for a nitro truggy to require lots of new parts so soon? I ran the engine in to.
So far I have needed - 2 pullstarts, bearing , clutch shoes, complete new engine (broke conrod), 2 hump packs (one set on fire), about 4 glow plugs. ect...
I have only used 5 litres of fuel in it. HPI have been really good to me and replaced a lot of the parts under warranty.
Is this typical nitro ownership? or should I sell up and but another nitro car.
It's not even been bashed! Just used on football fields.
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That's a great reply. Many thanks I'll look at something else. I am always needing parts for my truggy so I probably look at the Hypers..
or wait until the Ultra LX3 comes out.
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I am thinking of getting a Hong Nor X3 Sabre RTR Nitro Buggy. But I have looked on the internet and I can't see anywhere that sells parts for it. There is not much on ebay either.
They get a good reviews but does anyone know where I can buy parts for it? With it being Nitro it will no doubt it will require lots of spares.
Thanks.
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I'll try and see if I can get it under warranty.
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Gonna say if that piston is not at TDC ( top dead center ) then it is more likely
the conrod has a problem or more so a gudgeon pin thats shattered out.
DO NOT try to move the engine by hand, any metal fragments can damage you internal bore - and crankshaft+brearings.
remove the head , then undo the rear pullstarter and pop it off.
you should see inside the crankshaft with a little pin and a rod fitted to it.
top of that rod is a piston and a pin. and thats the area you need to look at.
you may find the pin holding the conrod in place may have worn/snapped
or jammed up and thats why the piston fails to turn the crank and vice a versa.
it can happen to any engine new or old.
Thanks . Your right, the pin that connects the piston and the connecting rod has snapped and metal bits were stuck in the engine preventing it moving.
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The flywheel does not move and the piston is not at the top. I will take the head and backplate off soon.
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Thanks. Ill have a good look when I get chance early next week..Engine had approx one gallon through it.
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Will do. I like this hobby but its not cheap and my truggy always breaks. Maybe I should have bought a hyper 7 after all.
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My trophy truggy engine piston has stuck. Pull start jammed. Is this fixable?
Thanks.
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Thanks.
Is there any thing else I will need to install apart from a 3 pin flywheel.
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Hi please can anyone recommend a aluminium 3-shoe clutch for trophy truggy 4.6 to replace the stock set up?
I have looked at the trophy truggy owners club site discussion, but the links don't work anymore.
Thanks
Regards
Olly.
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Thanks. I'll try all above the above at the weekend.
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Help. My firestorm does not move. The motor turns the new spur gear and the drive train ok. The wheels spin fine when the car is not placed on a surface. Once on a road there is not enough power to move the car. Drive train spins though. What do I need to check / replace ?
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Running 25% nitro so i'll change the clutch when the old one has worn out. Thanks.
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Hi
What's the most cost effective way to speed my Trophy Truggy up?
I have been looking at Jammin JP4 pipes on you tube and they to be quite effective.
Thanks.
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Hi
What's the most cost effective way to speed my Truggy up?
I have been looking at Jammin JP4 pipes on you tube and they to be quite effective.
Thanks.
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It's all working well now. I think the glow plug was faultly and the needles too rich. The RC shop supposedly had replaced the glowplug along with an aluminium clutch. It appears not..
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I'll try the traxxas 500ml one see if that's ok.
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Is there a good quality fuel bottle out there? My HPI one lasted about 2 months before I managed to rip the top off it by screwing it too hard. It was also leaking quite badly too. At the moment I am using a tomato sauce bottle, which is working ok and it cost nothing.
Thanks..
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Result, it's now working well apart from a small issue. The car moves forward slowly when idling. But if I decrease the idle the car cuts out. The idle gap looks ok..
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Decided to return all needles to factory settings. I'll go and buy some more glow plugs too and try again.
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Okay, so, I had enough of the Nitro. been in nitro for a few years and finaly had enough. so, brushless it was. doing this conversion with the battery and charger was cheaper than buying the model without any batterys or charger. and is fun. so worth doing. I havent got any pictures of the procces, but i do have what i am left with.
First, strip out all the nitro. clean and get ready to mount new stuff up. remeove the center diff (now would be a good time to shim if required), remove all the old brake stuff, then add the trophy truggy flux mount #101674, this will need washers underneth to level it out. I have loads of screws ect so i had no issue with finding any mechined screws, you cant use the stock so you may have to go to your hobbyshop or your nearyest B and Q, and use loketite) But you will ahve to cut your vero place down so you have the cleance for the mount. just use a hacksaw and a file will be good enough.
Then it was a case of mounting the batery tray ( i use dthe hpi one, but you can uise what you like.) there isnt much room between the spur and battery box, but it will clear. very close though. I just strilled 3 new holes, and used bolts, wahsers and a nut. no poroblem. it isnt going to move. again, use some loketite. (if you dont want any screws poking from the bottom you can contersink some bolt heads and have the nut facing the battery, but it will be differecult to cut the bolts down like i had to do so it doesnt puncture the battery.) i used one exciting nitro mount hole.
Mount the motor, add the pinion (Locktite) and mount your esc at the back, i used servo take. it doenst moove a mm. i mounted my reciver up top. velcro and a zip tie, again, solid and wont move. And yu now have a trophy truggy flux which cost less than the model new!
Im using a 2000kv Xerun hobbywing motor and the Quicrun 150amp ESC. i also hav ethe hex conversion done. just so the truck can handle the power. I will post pictures shortly.
Approximately how much does it cost to convert it. I am wondering if it's more cost effective to sell the Nitro and just buy the Flux.
Thanks.
Recommendations for a steering servo on Trophy Truggy
in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Posted · Edited by Joeloliver
Hi,
I want to take my SF20 steering servo out of my Trophy Truggy and put it in my son's Firestorm. Whats the best waterproof steering servo for the truggy for around