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Posts posted by neil.b
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You will like the EB48.4, Its a great car and very competitive out of the box.
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1 minute ago, capri-boy said:
Good to hear Neil. The reports I read about them was that they we're nowhere near as punchy as the 90c suggests - however some believe HK have changed suppliers / manufacturing or something and that the early Graphene's never suffered from it, and hence why they've started flogging them off cheap.
I'm not sure about the later batches but mine are probably the most punchy batteries I have used to date, and that's compared to quite a few other high end race packs. I did once have one of the cells in one of the packs go down to less than 2v during a race though.
Luckily I manged to revive it and charge it back up, the iffy cell still takes 7500mah (same as the other 3) when charging, which is a bonus. I have also done quite a few 18-20 minute finals using the batteries since then as well so it appears no lasting damage was done.
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I have had a pair of 7.5 2s hardcase graphenes since they came out. They are immensely powerful (even compared to other top race packs) and have retained their capacity well after quite a few cycles. But there is a but, mine regularly go out of balance, like WAY out of balance. After a couple of cycles the cells can be as much as .5v out of whack. So be sure to check and balance them regularly and you should be fine.
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Raced it.
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Finished building/painting it.
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Have you adjusted the steering trim on the radio? This will allow you to adjust the center point for the steering when moving the horn is too much. Once you have set the correct center point using the trim then you need to check that you end point adjustments are correct, this is so that you get full steering left and right but not so much that it strains/damages the servo,.
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Move your steering trim to the left, assuming everything else is equal both sides.
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Just roll it through a muddy puddle for effect.
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Its a Tekno EB48.3.
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Painted my new body shell.
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You can normally get a few choice aluminium/carbon parts but as Si Coe said but most buggy's don't need many if any upgrades.
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The difference between any SCT and an 8th electric buggy is huge on the track, the buggy's absolutely trounce the trucks in speed, handling and jumping. This also translates to bashing if you like your RC to handle well. SCT's are better in other areas though such as if you like your RC's to look more scale.
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8th electric buggy's are much better in my opinion, but then again, opinions are like arse holes in the fact that everybody has one.
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1 hour ago, Bigjimknickers said:
Nice savage Neil, can I ask what else you have to complete the Alza setup? Ie, what battery trays, how the esc sits & what the extra pieces are in the chassis?
Thanks dude, The upper plate at the rear is a custom made one that came with the tvp's that I bought used. The extra Alza parts in the chassis are:
Servo plate http://shop.alza-racing.com/en/standard-flux/4-servo-plate-standard.html ,
Skid plate http://shop.alza-racing.com/en/xl-flux/17-skidplate-xl.html ,
A few of these http://shop.alza-racing.com/en/savage-nitro/23-chassis-brace.html ,
The Shocks in the picture are rear shocks from a DEX8 but that picture was taken a few months ago and things have changed since.
The shock towers are from Innovative-RC, the battery trays are from a Team Durango DEX8 as is the receiver box. The center diff is made up from Team Durango DEX8 internals and casing with steel cross shafts and using a 50t steel spur gear from an Arrma typhon.
The quality of the Alza parts it outstanding as is the Innovative-RC stuff. I could have bought a new truck but this is a lot more special due to the time and effort it has taken to build it and make it all work.
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I recently converted my 14 year old savage 25 roller to brushless using the Alza TVP's/CD conversion. The stuff is not the cheapest but the satisfaction of making something of my trusty old savage that would have probably otherwise ended up in the bin makes it totally worth it in my opinion.
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Here are a few pictures of my recently acquired Tekno EB48.3.
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m3/m4 normally refers to the the thread size, not the hex size.
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I switched from the mt4-s to the m12s and I deffinately noticed an improvement in responsiveness and feel. The 4s is still a very good radio though.
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Its not a savage 35, there is no such thing. I suspect the savage you had before was a savage 21. 35 refers to the fact that the engine is a 3.5cc (cubic cm) or .21ci (cubic inch). The savage 25 is newer/better than a savage 21.
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Sripping it down today after yesterdays race.
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I just use a 17mm spanner on the hex and make sure the grub screw is nice and tight. Not had one come loose yet.
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I won
Do the SL pins not have a groove machined into them?
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I got it on Friday, built it yesterday(until 2am :-/) and raced it today.
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NDOR (Notts and Derby off road club)
in Racers Talk
Posted
Thanks for taking the time to film and upload. Very much appreciated. ?