Stilli

Thanks Mattr and Jony, sounds like a good method.

Can you elaborate on this method please, do you totally immerse them and what sort of container do you use? I thought acetone had quite a strong smell.

Servo centered and installed, upper decks done now, can't do any more tonight .... too tired.

Yep, sorted FHSS mode.

Think I've sussed it. The receiver I have is the R603GF, got a used one as the R2104GF wasn't in stock at the time. This one won't work with the RX Mode set to S-FHSS so I will have to change that setting on the TX. Not too sure what the benefits of S-FHSS are but I will probably get the R2104GF and replace mine if I think it warrants it.

Stripped and rebuilt the diffs as I had only compressed the spring once with the pliers and then setup as per your rec's. In the process managed to lose on of the plastic washers (with the lugs on) that goes in after the screw, it just pinged off as I tried to remove it and hasn't been seen since .... lol. Moved the servo over to the right, just having a problem syncing my receiver at the moment so haven't been able to centre it yet, will have another go tonight.

Ok thanks, will look at that in a minute.

I have it fitted to the left but can change it, thanks for the tip.

Shorty with rear mounted motor, sideways servo.

Ok thank you, slowly but surely. Haven't had a lot of time just recently so doing each stage whenever I can fit it in, as this is the first RC car kit I've built it's probably taking a lot longer than it should but I am happy to be learning stuff as I go. I have the servo installed but without the horn fitted as I have not centered it yet, going to do that now then I can couple up the linkages and carry on with the build. I assume I can do that with just the receiver, servo and batteries connected to the esc. Just have to solder up a couple of leads for the Lipos and charge them first.

Received my replacement Servo Saver shafts today and was surprised to find that it was the longer one that was correct not the short one. So, on with the build.

I use a small Gas Torch for soldering heavy guage wire and bullet connectors: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbt1-butane-gas-torch-kit?da=1&TC=SRC-gas%20torch

Thanks Charles, just what I wanted.

How tight should the Diffs be, how do I know when they are set right?

Yep, the correct sized shaft measures 29.09mm and the longer one measures 30.96mm overall length out of the car. I guess I could trim it.

Thanks guys, a selection of pinions required then I guess.

I would be interested to know what size pinion you used on your final build. The standard pinion is 19t giving a ratio of 10.26 with the 78t spur according to the manual, from Elliott Boots setup sheet I see that he used a 23t pinion giving a 8.48 ratio (in combination with his Tekin 6.5T motor). I am using the Orion VST2 6.5T motor in my car and the recommended ratio for that motor is 11.0 for a 4wd off-road buggy and to get close to that ratio I would have to gear down to 18t or even 17t. If I tried a 23t I am worried that the motor might run too hot as the difference is considerable giving a ratio of 8.48. Some guidance would be appreciated before I spend a fortune on a selection of pinions

Hi Charles, I have just completed stage 15 of the build and as I fitted the steering links I noticed that one of the servo saver shafts (part LA362) that fixes to the chassis is approx 1.5mm longer than the other. There is no reference to this in the manual and I wonder if you experienced the same and if it matters. So when screwing down the linkage with the screws into the top of the shafts one is flush and the other protrudes above the linkage by approx 1.5mm. Update: Have spoken to my supplier who informs me that the stock parts he has are both the same length and is arranging for Kyosho to forward replacement parts direct to me.

There are plenty of suppliers/model shops all over the UK and almost all of them do mail order and provide great service, I have used several.

Hi Jakes, Welcome to the forum, which Farnborough are you referring to, Hamshire or Kent? Overseas suppliers are pretty much commons sources for parts nowadays but you have to weigh up the pros and cons. I always try to buy locally if I can get what I want for a reasonable price, you can usually buy cheaper abroad but that is not always the fault of local suppliers who also have import duties, vat etc to contend with. Just beware that if you buy from eBay or the like that you pay using PayPal which will give you a degree of financial protection. Support your local suppliers whenever it is viable to do so, there are several advantages. You get your stuff pretty much next day, it's easy to return it if there is a problem or you ordered the wrong thing and you get helpful advice too. Good luck.

Carrier always charge a handling fee (on top of the delivery charge) for collecting Excise duty. If the value of goods is below

Haven't been there yet myself but by all accounts it's very good and as a newbie myself it's great that it's open every day so I can go in the week and practice without causing havac with the weekenders. I think you may have to have BRCA membership to use the track so check before you go, it's for insurance purposes and it's only

This can't be far from you and the track is open 7 days a week. http://www.hertsnitromodelclub.co.uk/ Westmill Farm A602 Ware Hertfordshire SG12 0ES

Thanks Brit, I was more concerned because there is no play at all in the back but the fronts are quite loose and I would say there is about 0.5mm play.

Thanks Charles, I will use some shims.