turtletom100
-
Posts
424 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Prizes
MSUK-Forum - RC Model News and Community
Articles
Events
Posts posted by turtletom100
-
-
19 minutes ago, Noj said:
Linky no work....
Ahhhhhh yes I see that being an issue. Sorry guys.
Let's try this: imgur.com/gVGE8R8
-
Hi guys
I haven't been on here in a while and even really in the world of rc for the past 6 months.
I got this as a project months ago but it still sits in its dreary way. Can anyone help as to what the model is please?
I have tried putting the photo on here but it was too large and when i try using the link i get a white box with no image so here is the link:
-
Lean hsn richen it up a quarter of a turn
Will give this another attempt tommorow cheers.
-
So the other day I made a thread about a needle turned out to be the low speed needle and I had being adjusting the mid speed needle it have reset that back to factory (flush then in a half turn) and reset everything else to factory.
Got her idling nicely but I jist can't seem to find the right settings full throttle causes either bogging or dying but if eased into it is ok. Now I have read different people say it lsn and others say hsn. Other thing I notice is when accelerating don't get the gear changes (using 3 speed transmission)
I have tried to get a video best I could in the dark also as you can see the exhaust isn't standard (currently using twin exit fitted to rear of car) and could have some effect on the noise
Savage xl:
-
You can get an app called I think it ulysee speed test on your phone and velcro the phone to chassis or use cable ties and do a cross so long ways then sideways holding the phone to the top plate
-
Your lsn is always on the carb barrel as it allows a little pin to regulate how much fuel comes through into the carb and block
in between low and mid range throttle until the hsn takes over and it all fully opens up
Yea but no matter what I do with lsn, idle, throttle trim I just can't get her started but it's obviously because I have ****** around with that other screw but is there not a setting for it like a factory setting or a way to set it? What is it called I don't mind looking into it. I can tune an engine but now I ****** around its making it near impossible
-
oh no tell me you didnt thats what allows fuel into the carb i never ever touch this screw as it takes to much of a hassle to realign lol
Great....... fantastic....... brilliant...... lol yea that's being turned in and out a few times lol thought it was as James said above the lsn so flushed it but then had a look around and found the lsn was the one in other side.
so is there no factory on this and what is this called lol
-
The screw on the end of the carb is the low speed needle, usually improving acceleration at low to mid speed.
Pushing on the purple bit will indeed change the carb gap as that's the carb itself....
Switch your radios on and make sure there's a 1-2mm gap in the carb. Reset all the needles to factory and then go from there. Don't try to tune your engine until its fully up to temp. Tune the high speed first, then low speed and finally adjust your idle.
Cheers for the reply bit I don't think that is the lsn. That is what a confused me tremendously.
The lsn is on the other side just beneath the hsn needges and then to the side of thst is the idle screw.
I will get a photo later of the other side if it helps. And if only was as straight forward as flush needle settings to revert to factory it doesn't seem to work. Sometimes when accelerating/braking the carb doesn't revert bask to the idle setting if thst mare sense
-
Can anyone help please. I want to know what this scree is and does on the savage xl carb.
I can't seem to get the engine running properly have tried tweaking the idle screw but notice that sometimes it don't seem to do much and if you push against this bit (the purple springy lookikg bit) it moves the carb gap
-
Lol could do with some sort of padding around the edges to help breakages and take the impact. Don't schools still use the blue safety matts? Use them where possible.
-
1
-
-
as aboved
warm soapy water, give the filtering medium a good wash.
Air filter Oil, this is used to help clog up the filter, yes i know it sounds wrong but the oil helps the dust stick to the foam,
this keeps it from being digested by the engine and causing problems.
by a spare filter, when your cleaning and washing-drying one filter, you can install the second spare and still run the engine fine.
once the original is air dry you can install it and then clean the spare ( the spare will need less washing )
as a rule of thumb change the filter every spring-summer and then again every winter.
summer running lots of dust gets about so filtering clogs up much more easy.
in the winter you use your machine less but again the weather is more damp, so any dust
will be damp/wet and gunky.
when a filter is dirty and drys out there is chance it can release some dust into the engine, so always best to replace the cheap foam now and again.
Cheers Tamiyacowboy :-) your a very helpful guy!
So using nitro fuel to clean with is a no and when you say soapy water do you mean using washing up liquid (fairy) or washing liquid (ariel/daz) may be bit of a dumb question just rather use the correct one lol.
And I will have 2 to switch and swap but will take your advice aswell and order some new foam ready for next year.
I understand the oil now so it is used to grab the fine particles then but don't smother it in oil or the carb won't be bake to breathe.
Cheers again guys
-
I ordered a hyper Ss electric roller and others bits. I never received any msuk stickers - pants53HRA pls have you got any up for grabs - I have some pennies for a sheet or two. ThanksSent from my RM-885_eu_euro1_290 using Tapatalk
You can order them via that link above pal. 53HRA might not have any left. If you don't get a reply you can go there and order them.
-
Foam air filters-
Strictly speaking you should renew the foam part (foams available for many different filters)...but I have washed them before.
I use warm soapy water and then give it a good rinse with water...leave to dry.
Air filter oil-
A lot depends on how dusty the conditions you run in are and whether there are two separate foams.
If there are two foams then just oil the inner by putting it in a small bag with a few drops of oil then squidge it around.
If only one filter then you can just put a little oil on your finger and run it around the inside of the foam.
The oil is used to help the filter catch smaller particles but as it is sticky it will also clog quickly if on the outside in dusty conditions...again all depends where you run and what filter.
After run oil-
Remove glow plug and air filter and add a few drops of oil...refit plug/filter and turn engine over a few times.
Always be sure to clean surrounding areas of plug/filter before removal to ensure no dirt gets in...and clear engine of fuel before adding oil.
Plenty of different ways and plenty more threads about these subjects.
Cheers for the explanation. :-) I did find other threads hut some say use nitro to clean others say water others say a degreaser others say buy k&n air filter cleaner others say just change it so I wanted to know how people on here do it. I will have to have a look at the filter see if there's 2 or if it's just the one.
:-) cheers guys
-
I know some will say buy a new filter but when I now own 2 filters (and one cardboard one that looks crud though looks like a wanna be k&n) I would rather spend the
-
So after getting the firestorm running again I have decided to give her a good clean and cleaned everything up as best I can. Now it running I want to look after it properly unlike the previous owner.
In the manual it says to wash the filters and re apply air filter oil. :-s (I would a thought this would just cog it up but I am a beginner)
Any way I have bought myself some hpi air filter oil (and also hpi after run oil)
Is it just a case of take top of filter off slide foam up rinse with (I read online soapy water, nitro fuel, just warm water. Not sure what one is best) then allow to dry and apply oil? If so where does oil go as surely it can't be a case of soaking the foam?
With regards to after run oil how do I go around using this stuff just put some in the carb after running or take glow plug out and drop directly on to piston?
Cheers guys
-
if you have here idling good and she is not pulling when placed on floor thats all good.
shoes take a while to wear, but if they are still black it means they are gripping and not slipping. its a good thing.
harder springs mean the engine now needs to rotate at a higher speed to throw the shoes out.
this is NORMAL and you will get used to it.
the gapping looks fine, its not excessive and your unable to see much if not anything of the shoes.
this to is a good thing.
NOW. what you need to do is put the machine through some testing, ie NOT BASHING IT !!!
run her up and down the street/ dirt track / grass verge etc etc, get everything settled down.
dont be to agressive, no mad full throttle doughnuts etc etc, give her a week of mild use.
after the week is up, have a good check, look at those shoes through the bell vents, they should have started to shine up a bit as the surfaces
wear and bed in. after each run check the temps does that clutch housing burn the fingers when touched. is it still nice and tight and has it settled.
so check that gap between clutch bell and the flywheel, have a scan at those shoe faces.
if all is well, start to ramp up the bashing, dont go mental, just put engine and drive train through so beef, so a few small jumps,
some flat out open throttle runs and some on and off the throttle stabbing. re-check and if all well your good to go.
NITROS need CARE, you need to check the working mechanical areas ever so often to catch problems before they happen,
a rusty clutch spring shows its going to give up sooner than later, a very shiney shoe and the machine pulling early on low throttle is a sign shoes are
worn and could do with replacing same as springs. another one is your giving throttle, but the car dont move, either the spring/s have broken or the shoes are worn to deep.
electric cars are more easy to care for motor wise, they just a throw in and forget, but nitro's need a little love and care, do this and they last a long time.
Once again thank you very much and I apologise for all the aggro throughout this but hopefully got it sorted now.
I have run one rank of fuel through her may have given her the odd bit of power (which after reading what you have put I am kinda regretting) hopefully I will take her out either tommorow or the weekend weather dependant and do as you say just up and down a few times and check the temperature of the bell. I am assuming it shouldn't be unbearable as this would mean the shows are rubbing to much.
I have ordered a firestorm roller as well so hoping to drop the other engine in and test that out nightmare really after the hassle I had but as they say "practice makes perfect" :-) lol
Once again Tamiyacowboy you have being a star thankyou very much. :-)
-
Also I noticed when I took the firestoem out where I have used the 1.1mm springs I have to pull the throttle a bit more to get movement but I am assuming this is just thicker springs causing this.
-
I can see the engine will idle and that the clutch is disengaged at idle from the video...basically the engine runs and the wheels are not turning...
If the wheels are not turning then neither is the clutchbell...but the flywheel is turning...if the turning thing comes into contact with the non turning thing then there will be a sound.
With the engine running at idle when it is making the noise, try moving the bell around...what happens?
Are the top edge of the shoes actually contacting the edge of the (vented) bell randomly....the video of you wobbling the pinion seems to say that the bearings/shimming (in/out) seem to be workable...but remember that as things heat up they expand so at least allow a snick of clearance.
PS...think I have thought more about clutch problems in the past few days than I have ever actually had...there are plenty of things that can go wrong but they are easily fixed/diagnosed....usually.
Firstly sorry about the questions lol your help throughout had being appreciated.
With regards to the noise from the bell when she is running I will make a video tommorow. :-)
With the shoes if you look through the gaps/vents the shoes don't even show signs of wear yet (no silver markings/scratches) so I am tempted to say that they are not scraping the bell.
I'm no genius that's for sure when it comes down to this I've only being in the rc world for 3 months and jumped in the deep end with converting a brushed to brushless then buying a non runner and getting her running I have also just paid 46.50 for another firestorm roller (no engine, shell, rx or tx) but have got the stock flywheel, clutch shoes/spring, flywheel nut, bearing, clutch bell and air filter. All she needs is a engine, shell, tx and rx, and the right dog bone or cvd (not too sure why they called) I have the old engine that I got for the flywheel and got a spare shell here so hoping it will be quite a cheap fix. :-) (I k ow gone off subject a bit here lol)
-
PM me your address turtletom,i've got loads of sets sitting around mate. When they first came out i went mad and bought about 15 sheets
Generally you do get a free sheet when a car is purchased though
Thankyou very much you are an absolute star. :-)
-
I have never had any stickers included with any orders whether it was a small order or a large one.
Ahhhhh well looks like I am spending the
-
Wow surprised that delivery is still
-
So my brother has bought a savage xl used and it has a msuk sticker on the shell. I am looking to spray and dip a new shell myself in the next couple months for both cars.
I have got optifuel stickers for the nitro and also got some monster stickers coming thanks to another member on here but was wondering where do I purchase the msuk ones from or do you get given some when you go to a gold member?
-
Only other question I do have with regards to this is as Deafty pointed out above the spur teeth are not central with the clutch bell teeth (they make full contact but at the back of the clutch bell teeth)
So do I just stick a couple washers behind the spur/slipper pad at the back?
This isn't causing issues but it might further down the line so would rather prevent that from happening lol
-
Well after comparing my gap between the bell and flywheel to a savage I would say that is fine I have took her out run a tank through and she is running fine got power, lovely idle with the controller setting in the middle starts 2nd/3rd pull, looking through the vents on the bell don't appear to be wearing the shoes down can still see black not silver. I think that will be alright if Tamiyacowboy could just let us know what he 5 hints 5o 5 he gap and movement in the bell it would be appreciated
What is this old Tamiya please
in General RC
Posted
Fantastic, thankyou. (And the link worked) :-D