turtletom100

Are these not different though? They look different

As you can see aswell there are filings of metal around where the spur bell would go normally so it has definitely had some scraping going on. I will clean this all up best I can as I go.

I know these are probably dumb questions but I would rather get the job done properly this time. When I switched the integy shoes to the rc answer ones I literally copied the setup the way it was when I bought it from some guy. So it is all new to me still. Still learning :-)

Cheers well least that's a few people noes I haven't got to spend lol. Just a quick run round with some emery cloth be alright? And would you recommend wipimg any oil or anything just inside? Also a few have said the nut may be wrong way do they mean that this flanged/recess bit should be on the underneath so the springs tuck into that?

The bell has also got a few scrapes around the side but they not deep so again maybe just run a bit of emery cloth around the inside? Or do you think I need a new bell? And cheers I will try that tonight and yes thst was my plan just drill head and use pliers to undo the thread but your way seems less violent. Lol so will give a go turning engine. If there's another room to allow me to do this it will only need to crack it off.

Also they look worse I think because they have "mushroomed" if that is the right word. That is why I say I need to file the burr I will attempt to 4 are the engine out so I can get these off the flywheel and ill file the sides and take another picture. I have also got the I tey ones I took out because I wanted to make sure that clutch wasn't going to be any issue (seems like I possibly done the opposite lol)

Wow I didn't realise this would be such a complex change lol I 5 hough it was take others out replace with them and job done lol. Well I will have to have a look when I get the shoes out. And I think the last image makes it look worse because I was trying to look Dow on them. I just not sure whether I should buy another set of shoes or not aswell. And the inside of the bell looks like this So with the engine 5 are 5 he other 3 screws out and actually try turning the engine not the screw is that right?

Cheers for replying Anthoop :-) What do you mean by little washers I don't remember fitting little washers to the pins. But I will have to double check. I think the groove is around the top of the nut at the moment. When I took the bell of there was some was some residue (I wouldn't say swarf but it had formed like a grey paste) in your opinion do the shoes look like they will be fine I am going to take them out and file the burr down. But just can't get the engine out at the moment as one of the engine mount screws has a rounded head so I am going to order some more screws then I will bore the screw out. Unless I can pull it off with the engine still in the car. And so basically if I use thicker springs it will help stop the clutch engaging but chances are is that the nut is either the wrong way or the wrong nut. I am waiting for a photo off the correct way these should be as I have only done them the once but didn't have the tool so done it using screwdriver the tool is now ordered and so are the thicker springs so can do it properly. Just need a pboto or something to use a guide

I just always take the zeros of and place a decimal place In the middle lol. 5400mah - 5.4a 5000mah - 5.0a 3500mah - 3.5a So on and so on. Whether this is correct or bot but I haven't had any issues. :-)

Okie we will see what he comes back with. Cheers for your reply. Either way I think I'll be better using 1.1mm springs so it needs a little bit more throttle but will this affect the acceleration/top speed?

What do you mean they are mounted a hit high up? I thought there was only one position? :-s Sorry I am a hit of a noob especially to this lol I have ordered some more 1.1 springs which are thicker than the 0.9mm springs gs in there currently which means that they are going to stick out more don't it? Do the shoes look like they need replacing though?

Ok no worries thankyou very much,

The inside of the bell had got a few marks and could do with a slight clean I will get a picture later. So if they are not sitter properly what is the correct way. And I'm not sure about the nut. Wow I didn't think there was this many things to go wrong with replacing clutch shoes lol

The engine is the stock hpi firestorm 10t g3.0 engine and I have had to fit a new flywheel to allow the triple shoes but that is what I read work for the firestorm really well. Or I can use a savage 3 shoe setup, or integy do a 3 shoe setup. And the old ones were integy and I don't know if they are rruined. I have never really seen a ruined set I changed clutch shoes one of the first things I done when got car and the person I bought it from had installed the integy ones I will get a photo later and upload of other ones

Have you got an image or something as I thought these were dome correctly. Please

Maybe no more nails :-p

Here is a video I done but as I can't get the engine out I done it while still attached on car but I would imagine it would be the same outcome if I was holding the engine aswell. http://youtu.be/x69fVAWWG0k Here we go some pics and video of the clutch bell spinning nicely imo. Bell: http://youtu.be/x69fVAWWG0k They look worse in the photos as it is a close up but I am pretty sure just a light rub down with a bit of emery cloth to remove the burr that has "mushroomed" over the edge (if that's the correct term) and thicker springs will be fine but I am a bit of a noob with this so I might be wrong. Also they were all black but it appears two have gone to a reddy colour but I am under the impression this is just caused by the heat not to much to worry about. Any advice would be appreciated :-)

Cheers for replying pal. I have had the car down the hobby shop as I could t stop the idling and they have set all the servo horn and carb back up. The gap is fine and I can close it and open it more using the tx so that's not the issue. She runs nice aswell other than the clutch engaging on idle which is causing headaches. I will upload some images and a video of the clutch bell in a second. The reason I have taken the engine out is because I forgot I had loctited the screws and attempted to remove them earlier and when my hex driver started spinning I remembered I heated the other 3 up and they come out fine but I got this one sob that won't budge I did try using a torx but still not having it so next option is to either drill the head and use pliers or cut a slot and use a flat head but I don't have a spare screw sitting around so going to buy some more over the weekend and then I'll have it out. :-)

I have made a video and took couple photos though like I said it is still sitting in the car. Video of the bell running smoothly. Bell: http://youtu.be/x69fVAWWG0k and some images of the shoes as best I could get whilst still in the car. But think you can see the jist of it. They look worse in the photos as it is a close up but I am pretty sure just a light rub down with a bit of emery cloth to remove the burr that has "mushroomed" over the edge (if that's the correct term) and thicker springs will be fine. Please advise me. :-)

But at the moment where on idle the car rolls the thicker springs will stop this from happening would it?

Cheers for replying. I have had a look tonight but I didn't take the engine out everyone says this needs to be done why is this? I removed the spur gear then spun the spur on the clutch bell and it spun really nice didn't grind, didn't judder just carried on and on spinning and spinning. Any way I took the bell off and noticed that a couple of the shoes had a hit of burr on the edges but the worst thing was I haven't used 1.1mm springs I have actually used 0.9mm springs. I personally am tempted to say that because of this this is causing the movement on idle please correct me if I am wrong. If this is the case I have got to order some 1.1mm springs as I seem to have misplaced mine (which is why I thought is had 1.1mm springs on already) Also I will use some emery cloth and get the bit of bur rubbed down when I do this. If needs be I will happily take a photo or 2 if this helps Cheers again for replying

Cheers for replying much appreciated. Firstly I have had a look tonight but I didn't take the engine out. I took the spur off and the spur that attaches to the clutch bell spun that and spins freely and just carries on no grinding feels really nice (like it is meant too I think) I took the bell off and can see that the edges of the shoes have got a bit of burr on them and to my amazement i haven't used the 1.1mm springs I have used the 0.9mm. Personally I am leaning towards saying that the bur isn't great and secondly the springs are too soft. Correct me if I'm wrong but changing the springs to 1.1mm should mean that it won't engage ad easy at idle which is good. And should stop the movement? While doing this I will use a bit if emery cloth and going to de burr the shoes. If you want I can rake a photo and maybe you could help advise further?

Possibly a washer the guy from hpi called it a shim. But there was about 4 there when I changed it so there is a possibility this is causing the clutch to engage. But tedious though taking one out putting altogether to try the car then if not take engine/clutch bell back out and take one washer/shim out to try again. He did say it could be bearings but he highly doubts it is

So I have spoke with hpi technical team and they say to take engine out check the clutch bell and possibly take out a shim. How would I take a shim out do I need to all the shoes out to do this? I really hope not ad this is a pain to do

So I got car back today and they say the clutch is the problem and is engaging causing the car to move on idle so going to get new clutch over the weekend. Issue is when brake is applied the engine dies will changing the clutch stop this from happening if it is the clutch engaging also on my brake arm it has plastic tubing over the rod. I being told that this should be a spring. Is this correct aswell if so what do u look on ebay for? And lastly the servo is starting to slip aswell so what servo is recommended for the firestorm 10t