turtletom100

Yea just looks pressed in bit of alloy but I am getting fed up with throwing money in this car to be honest. I took it to my lhs and they allegedly tuned the carb which runs the same as it did before because idle still movement. Yea that's bang on there not doing that again and he took car from my day to Wednesday. :-s

Well that nut is on an old engine (that came out an old firestorm) but also got a 2 flywheel on it so have got to get the nut off and put on the 3 way flywheel but I will try this. If not answer rc make a flywheel nut

I bought the shoes and springs in the same kit so would assume this shouldn't be a problem. Also when I tried this over an old/spare engine with the stock flywheel and nut it went straight on no problems which is why I am saying nut is my issue.

Cheers for the reply. I would assume that the clutch bell will be alright as that is all stock on that engine. But I have got to buy a new flywheel and answer rc don't sell a flywheel so going to buy the conversion kit (integy like is on now) but this is made for a firestorm and I will use the answer shoes instead of the integy. I have found a answer rc flywheel nut and curious as to whether 5 his would be the correct nut. With regards to firestoem threads they recommend using the integy set up or answer rc or savage 3 shoe clutch setup that is why I am sticking with what I have gone for. Just this nut is a pain in the bottom shall we say. When 6 of say check room how would I do this ad like I say that is just stock flywheel on 5 hat engine as that is the spare engine

May have lied about that flywheel nut being the correct one Not that lucky as they say lol As you can see the spring isn't sitting in the groove in the nut. :-( Can I not use washers/shims behind to jack the nut up lol.

Before I jump into this I am going to have to take the other engine off the plate and check that the answer shoes fit on that nut I know that the flywheel poles might be different but if it sits flush on the flywheel with the spring seated correctly then it shoukd work with any flywheel that has the same diameter hole. That's my theory anyway lol just got to get 3 screws out that have being rounded so they more look metal discs with circles in them. Think cut a slit in them and use a flat head will be the way to go

Cheers RCbutcher. I think what's occurring after watching numerous videos of the tool working is that my nut is wrong what Anthoop said from the word go. In videos the small end of the spring sits on top of the nut then the tool just literally pushes it over the nut and pushes the shoes down. Where as at the moment I can't do this because the nut is too tall which means that the spring isn't going over the flywheel ppoles when trying to do this just pushes the long end (back) of the spring out lol. A screwdriver was used last time with the same setup but obviously it is a more brutal way of doing it. I have got to buy a flywheel anyway as one of the poles on it where the shoe goes over is loose and pushes up and down so going to order a new integy kit (flywheel, collet, shoes and springs) but I will just use answer rc shoes as this is what I have read on numerous threads that people use. I have just got to order the kit and order a flywheel wrench to take the nut off. I have got another engine for a firestorm with the stock flywheel and nut on which after trying to put one of the new shoes on seemed to be how it should work (with the small spring on top of the nut and if you test it by pulling the shoe out and seeing where it would sit it sits perfectly in the nut groove. This is the nut I believe should be used. This is the nut I currently have on (you can see it's taller which I think is the problem well hope lol. Just more expense lol. If this don't sort the problem I think it may be time to sell the firestorm in parts and either by a new nitro or invest in another leccy. Yes you are spot on with regards to seeing red getting stressed with it lol spent 3 hours tonight and all I have achieved is a cut on my thumb lol but your bang in the money rather that than a trip to a n e with a spring in the eye lol.

Any used the fastrax 475 flywheel wrench it looks a bit thin and flimsy hut is cheap so if it takes 2 nuts off I'm happy.

Don't worry guys I can't be bothered no more with it I just going to get tools flywheel puller/flywheel wrench in couple months and try again but got kids birthdays and Christmas to think about. Cheers for to the few that have being assistance over the last couple weeks though do appreciate it.

This is why I don't want to use the screwdriver method instantly cut me thumb not even got the shoe on the cars going in the bin soon and I sticking with my leccy lol

How did you do this mate, cheers for replying. Last time I just used a screwdriver but after stabbing myself numerous times I was trying to avoid that

Wow 42 views and no one can be of assistance in this matter. Surely someone has had to change there clutch shoes and can advise what I'm doing wrong.

Yea it is the firestorm and when I bought it used (it was a non runner) It came with the integy conversion (flywheel, nut, collet, shoes and integy vented 20t clutch bell. Also a integy spur and slipper pads) the guy I fot it from has used integy for all the hop ups. I put answer shoes that he threw in to replace the integy as 5 hey were worn and done it just about with a screwdriver. But 5 he clutch was engaging as per my earlier threads so I have bought new set of answer rc shoes and springs and going to use the three pole flywheel with new shoes and springs (1.1mm) but the tool is pissing me off big time. With regards to using standard set up I have spoke to the guy I bought it from and have got an old engine with the standard sky wheel and 2 pins but no shoes or the long spring (what everyone was saying was pants) As I not got a flywheel puller or battery puller and haven't got a flywheel spanner I guess unless I want to fork out more money I'm stuck with what I've got for time being. Not going to lie but this is 2 weeks I being trying to sort this out tried tuning out as thought it was a tune problem, took servo horn off as tuning wasn't helping so re aligned all thst, spent

Also in the youtube videos I watched it a like the shoe isn't sitting in the flywheel flat but yet when I try they have to be flat this poxy clutch is starting to irritate me now to be honest.

Right third thread but now can't use a 3 shoe clutch installer ti install clutch shoes everytime I try copying videos the big end of the spring pushes out the back of the shoe what am I doing wrong.......

One thing with the bell I have got some emery and going to rinse it with carb cleaner after but would you run a bit of oil around to help protect the metal after?

Cheers for the vids :-) I have already seen alis one got it saved to my favourites so u can follow lol. As it turns out the "shims/washers" I was talking about are the ones he puts over his flywheel poles but answer rc shoes don't need these. This is copied " YOU ARE HERE: Home

I have made another thread about clutch engaging at idle and have bought new shoes and springs (I'm sure you all seen the other thread by now) but someone mentioned to make sure I shim it properly. Now when I took the old shoes off there was no shims so I haven't got none to put it on. So the questions are: Where do these shims/washers go? (On the flywheel poles) If I shim it surely this will make it worse as pushing the shoes further forward? I have got the shoes and springs so just waiting for the answer to this then goikg to go ahead and fit the new shoes and springs on. If there's any tips to do this and stuff to make sure I doing properly it would be appreciated- :-)

Yea I 100% agree there and the set I just put on were all answer rc springs and shoes I lay thing is the flywheel is integy. I don't know what these shims are and where they would be found as I have taking the shoes off the flywheel and there is no shims/washers behind it. And surely if it was/is engaging early I don't want to push the shoes out anymore as this would cause it to engage sooner/easier?

Yea that edge. :-)

I tried in a small space and ended up going sideways into a kerb which caused ine of my cvd joints to take the punishment and get a slight kink/bend in it. Try in a empty car park where there nothing to hit. :-) Practice makes perfect.

It don't help with the amount if room you had you really need more room that to practice but idea is same as driving to a certain extent but you want to start to turn into the corner then feather the throttle to keep the drift going then maybe hit throttle to pull the car straight again. And from start as tyres have no grip can try less throttle to get up to speed :-)

You can ease up on the throttle aswell should be played with not flat out

Maybe a 2 off ad it appears there is another mark beside that one lol