jamesd
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Posts posted by jamesd
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The motor is dead in my sons HPI jumpshot ST v2 I have a replacement 120117 - SATURN 12T 550 MOTOR on order from Modelsport but its been on back order for months and I am looking to buy another non HPI motor to run instead.
Will any 12T 550 motor be suitable and will it be ok with the standard hpi ESC?
I was thinking this motor might be suitable https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-titan-12t-550-motor/rc-car-products/27458 can anyone confirm it will be ok?
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14 hours ago, Bigreenpants said:
That was in 2012 tho according to this thread!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYeah I had a look on there but couldn't see any sets for the savage XS
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Does anyone have any links to uk sellers of bearing kits?
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I just picked up a Ken block Micro RS4 with a Novark GT micro ESC and Trinity mini machine motor. Its a great wee car but the motor is hitting temperatures of 100c when running! Its running a 2s Lipo but I will try with the standard Nimh pack and see if the temperatures are still high. Is it likely to be getting hot because of the lipo higher voltage or could it be a gearing issue. Also is there a dedicated thread for the micro RS4 with common mods? I had a look but couldn't find one.
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Thanks for the replies
Fly In My Soup that guide is exactly what I needed! Thanks I will have a read
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2 minutes ago, Guns said:
Nope, theyre alot simpler than lipos, no need for a low voltage cut off or storage charge etc
Ah ok sounds simpler, so just run it until the car slows then. What about over charging do I need to worry about that or will the charger take care of that? Do they need to be fully discharged before re charging?
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4 hours ago, Guns said:
Wouldn’t worry bout the sensitivity, there should be a basic nimh mode and just charge them at 1.2a and 2.0a respectively.
Thanks for the reply, ok so similar to lipo batteries. What voltages are considered as low for the nimh batteries? Is there a minimum voltage for them like the lipos?
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I am new to charging NiMh batteries, I have been charging Lipo batteries for quite a while but never NiMh and just wondering how you program the charger to charge NiMh batteries. I have the OVerlander RC6-VSP charger and it asks for a current limit and NiMH sensitivity d peak. How do I calculate these values? The batteries I am trying to charge are an HPI Plazma 6.0v 1200mah micro pack https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=378586&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5J_mBRDVARIsAGqGLZBAXrwMXaNvYt21aCzAsx6sFEZ5focJQig05EuMNorGuopAfG2BIxAaAsC8EALw_wcB
and an HPI plazma 7.2v 200mah https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-plazma-7-2v-2000mah-nimh-stick-pack-re-chargeable-battery/rc-car-products/385228
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Ok PM me your details please and I will get a PayPal payment sent across
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Is this still available? What condition is the Ken block body shell in?
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On 16/03/2018 at 09:59, Leo said:
Looks like HPI have another paint scheme coming.
Anybody know the release date for this shell?
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Does anybody have any overheating issues with the standard ESC and motor running 2S batteries and a 19 tooth pinion? I have fitted the 19 tooth to mine and it keeps overheating and shutting down. I just changed all the wheel bearings to see if that helped but no change. Next I will change the diff bearings, would a worn diff cause this issue?
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4 hours ago, granty said:
I did this. Twice. New motor I'm afraid. I think I got mine from JennyRc on eBay in the US.
I thought I had meshed the spur and pinion correctly but clearly not. So check this next time.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks for the heads up, I see they still have some left at JennyRC are you in the UK? How much customs did you pay on it?
2 hours ago, NOFX said:Yeah. Folded piece of paper between spur & pinion. Tighten, pull paper out , sorted
Hmmm I did this when I set the mesh obviously didn't do it right lol. Can you tell if its right after you set the mesh? I don't want to break another motor. Is it too close a mesh that snaps the shaft?
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Ah damn! New motor! I was afraid that would be the case. I will check the mesh, I have just put the 19 tooth pinion on 3 packs ago so I bet that's the problem. What's the best way to set the mesh? Tighten it up with paper in the mesh?
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A bit of a long shot since this was posted in January but is this still available?
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Does anybody know if you can change the shaft in the stock WR8 motor? I just snapped the shaft in mine
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Perhaps I had better not run a 3s just yet then! I don't want to be breaking things, I have only just got it and haven't managed to run a pack through it before the driveshaft snapped lol
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Thanks for taking the pics to show the difference James, as long as it's a nice tight fit I don't think it'll be too much effort to cover the remainder if it comes with these :-D
No problem, the connections are nice an tight on both my Vapor pro ESC's with either or motor. So I dont think you will have any problems. The motor I have with the short connectors came factory on my WR8 and the motor with the bigger connectors I bought on eBay as a set second hand with the vapor pro esc as a spare. I think the set I bought on eBay came out of a Savage XS as I have recently bout a Savage XS rolling chassis and went to order a pinion, and relised the pinion on my spare motor was a Savage XS one.
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Mine needed proper tyres before it would do that consistently, have seen vids of 2s backflips on stockers but suspect they've got the slipper done up tight as lots of people resort to that to stop it backing off
I had ground assaults on mine
Sent from my Fingers using the Tinternet
Thanks for the replies, I think I will need to look at getting some tires at some point. Not for a while though as I snapped the front to center driveshaft last night. I figured this was probabally down to the excessive wear on the cup joints, so i have ordered the HD replacments for both ends of the center shafts, the cups on the diffs and the hubs seemed ok so I havent ordered HD versions of them.
I also have a 3s battery that I am tempted to try in this truck, do you need to change gearing to run a 3s?
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I noticed whist looking at motors that the vektor 4000kv shows different looking connectors on different pics, both look like bullet syle, but on one they look short and stumpy (same as the flux screem on my trophy) and the other looks longer? Is this likely to cause any issues for me?
I have 2 hpi vektor 4000kv motors and they both have different connectors, one came in my WR8, I bought the other as a spare for the WR8 but have fitted it in a savage xs. The motor connects with no problems to the vapor pro ESC in the WR8 and also the vapor pro in the savage xs. The only difference is that the connector sticks out slightly on the motor with the longer connectors.
Here's a couple of pictures showing the different connectors, excuse the mess of the WR8 I just had it out and haven't cleaned it yet
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Bearings
Sent from my Fingers using the Tinternet
Thanks, i will check all the bearings. Where is the best place to get bearings?
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I just received delivery of a rolling chassis today, I am hoping to get going with a spare vapour pro and motor from a WR8. I have a lot of reading in this thread to do but are is there anything I should check first or upgrade before running?
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Thanks for all the advice, in the end I managed to get a cheap HPI TF-40 and receiver from an eBay breaker. I have fitted that to the WR8 and in the short time I have driven it the range seems fine. Although now my front diff has gone so I am waiting on parts to rebuilt it lol.
I opened up the transmitter I was having the range problems with and there seems to be a leg with no solder on it, it seems like it was like this from the factory all the other legs next to it have been soldered but there is one that hasn't had a drop of solder on it. The leg is contacting the pad on the board though so I am guessing this is why is works to a certain degree. After discovering that I managed to switch the wheel and its spring and also the steering potentiometer across to my original transmitter and I have gotten that operational again.
What motor for HPI jumpshot stv2, will any 12T 550 motor do?
in General - Electric
Posted
Thanks for that I was thinking that £30 was a bit much for brushed, I am not looking to upgrade to brush-less just now as its my sons first car and brushed is fine for him to get to grips with it.
I notice that the motor you linked to is 540 and has 15 turns so does that mean the motor is slightly smaller and has more turns so will be faster but wont have as much torque?
I have an hpi 540 15 turn motor in another hpi model I could possibly use but I wasn't sure if it was suitable because it was a 540 with 15 turns and the one in my sons car was 550 with 12 turns.
Thanks I will have a look there and see whats available.