jamesd

I have been having problems with deans connectors de-soldering themselves while running or the connector melting and not making a good connection. I think its deans copies that came on my batteries and I am just wondering where I can source new genuine deans connectors. The type I have are: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Deans-GRIP-T-Plug-Connectors-With-Heatshrink-10-Pairs-GOLD-Plated-UK-B-/291179249839?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item43cba2c0af and i am wonderin if these would be a better quality: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/logic-rc-deans-connector-set-10prs/rc-car-products/38738

Have you got any links I can't seem to find them anywhere? That would do the job altough I would prefer to get one from UK so its hear quicker, its given me another search option though. Thanks These ones? http://www.rcracinguk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6&products_id=13495 That would do fine, I will email them to see when they expect new stock, Thanks

I'm looking to replace the fan in my Vapor pro ESC. Does anyone know of any 25mm x 25mm x 7mm? I have been looking for one but not many sites list the dimensions only what ESC's they fit. Sent from my Windows Phone 8S by HTC using Tapatalk

I didn't realise you had done so many video's! I saw the others you posted and I did think it seemed fast but wondered if that was because the camera was mounted on the car.

Was it a 3s pack you were using in the vid?

WOW! That looks quick! Is this using a 3s Lipo? I have only ever run mine on 2s, if thats 3s I think I need to get me a 3s pack!

That is confusing! The only reason I cracked the centre diff was because the bearings needed replacing, had it not been for that I would have left it alone. I am tempted to change the oil in the front and rear diffs though. J.A.Son Is this the oils you used font and rear, Fastrax CML Racing Pure Silicone Diff Oil (7,000 wt) and Fastrax CML Racing Pure Silicone Diff Oil (10,000 wt)?

Hahahaha I got that result as well and thought i must be doing something wrong! So is 100k Wt fine for the centere diff, and I should try 7k cst on the front and 10k cst on the rear not 7k, 10k Wt?

I ended up buying this: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-cml-racing-pure-silicone-diff-oil-100-000-wt-/rc-car-products/37512 and used it in the centre Diff Thanks thats a handy tool Diff oils are confusing

Ah nut's! I thought it was weight and I have just renewed my center diff with 100k wt oil and ordered 70k and 10k weight for the front and rears. Is there much of a difference?

Thanks for all the comments, I will do a full charge from flat tonight if the weather clears up and I get to run a battery down in the car. I did a charge from storage voltage last night and that took 50mins. I am charging from the mains just now and haven't tried to charge via a car battery yet.

I am from near Dundee as well I will need to check out some of these sites, I have passed te one at Baldovie many a time and i didn't even know it was there!

Thanks for the advice. The charger I have is new as well as the two batteries which were bought the same time. It was my first charger and pair of batteries and has taken this long from Day one and I have had them about a month now. At first I though this was possibly normal but the more i read up the more it seems there is a problem. The contacts appear to be clean and don't show evidence of a poor connection, I am using the lead that came with the charger. Do you think there is a problem with the charger and that I should return it? I will watch the readings on the charger and see when the current drops. Thanks

Thanks for the reply. Maybe I need to look at a better charger then. I thought the 80 Watt charger would be fine going on Watts=Volts*Amps so 7.4*6=44.4 Watts? Have I got the calculations wrong? I am still trying to get my head round Lipo's and charing. Thats interesting to hear that charging from the car battery isn't great, I might have to re think that. It was just so that i could have a longer run time on the feild. I had a car battery spare and noticed my charger can run on a car battery.

I have a couple of turingy 6000mah 2s 25c batteries that I charge at 6.0amps on my overlander RC6-VSP charger. A balance charge of either battery typically takes 2 hours 30 mins give or take. Is this normal? I thought at the 1c charge rate they would be charged in about an hour? If I do a normal charge it takes around 2 hours. I have a fast charge setting on my charger but haven't used it, will using it degrade my batteries quicker? I am planning on connecting my charger to a 12v car battery and charging batteries while I am out so I can take two packs out fully charged run one down, put it on charge and run the other one down and have as little downtime as possible, but if the battery is going to take 2.5 hours to charge and the run time is only around 20 mins then its not really going to be worth the hassle of charging while I am out. Would I be better getting some smaller more capacity batteries to charge while I am out or will they just take the same amount of time to charge? I also noticed when I run the car to the LVC and put the battery checker on the cell voltages are around 3.2 to 3.4. Would it be worth my while getting the programming kit and increasing the limit so my packs aren't as flat and therefore wouldn't take as long to charge? Any advice would be great.

Thanks for the advice, might pickup a tub of that grease from halfords. Forgive me for the newbie question but what difference does different wieght diff oil make to the car?

Ah right so the 30000 in the product code refers to the wt, I get it now. I didn't see any wt figure for the grease before and just wondered how you knew it was 30k. I actually see the tyres ballooning up lots when I hit full throttle and running on grass with off-road tyres, its usually the rear though and they balloon so much that they hit the body work. I haven't noticed the tarmac gymkhana tyres ballooning though.

Great! Thanks for the tips. I didn't plan on splitting the diff but to change the bearings it appears I will have to. Hmmmm I don't have any shock oil, hopefully I can clean it out with WD40. I better get some screws on order as well sounds like I will need them! Is the Z164 grease the stuff I need for the front and rear diffs? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-heavy-weight-grease-30000-gear-diff-/rc-car-products/17526 I also couldn't find that info but in the instructions HPI recomend 25c 4000mah and 30c 3500mah which is 105A and 100A. So I took that as a rough guide?

Thanks for the reply. I bought the car second had so I am unsure of what mileage its done. I have the centre diff out just now because the bearings need replaced and I just thought it would be an idea to replace the grease while I have it out or at the very least have some spare to top it up if I loose some while changing the bearings. Also it would be nice to know the stock setup so that I could change it later on to tweak it, if required.

Yeah to be honest I didn't think there was a problem with the bearings, but thought I had better check. I noticed that one of the wheels wasn't spinning a free as the others and when I took the bearing out all the grease had splattered out and it fell apart when I removed it. None of them were hard to turn really just when I spun them they would stop quicker than the others. I suppose its all extra resistance and makes the motor work harder which in turn creates more heat. That and the fact my ESC fan was noisy and the heat sink was full of grass, but I have ordered a new fan for the ESC. Fingers crossed once all this is complete and back together I won't get thermal cut out again. Thanks for the info its a wonder HPI don't use oil in the front and rear diffs as standard. How did you know that 30wt oil is equivalent to the HPI grease?

Great thanks for the advise, the manual isn't really that detailed with its description and having never done this before I had a lot of blanks that needed filling in. Once I get the hang of the car I might experiment with different wt's but the only reason I am replacing it just now is because I have a problem with the ESC going into thermal shut down and some one suggested in another thread its probably my drive train. So far I have found a disintegrated bearing on the centre diff, two destroyed bearings in one rear hub and noisy bearings in the other rear. I am hoping that replacing them and changing the diff oil cures my problem. I assume the 30k wt diff oil you suggested is similar to the grease the manual said to use? Thanks again

What weight of oil is used in the diffs on the stock setup? I checked the manual but its confusing! From what I gather its 100k wt in the centre and grease in the front and rear? Is this correct? if so would replacing the grease for the front and rear with 30kwt oil be the same as the standard setup? Thanks

Great thanks! I shall get some ordered up

Ok thanks. I have looked at the WR8 thread and 100k is the stock oil so I think I will stick to that for the centre for just now. Is 100k the weight? If so will this oil be ok? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-differential-oil-100k-weight/rc-car-products/32957 I cant find an HPI version I n the manual it says to use this http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-heavy-weight-grease-30000-gear-diff-/rc-car-products/17526 in the front and rear diffs so should I just use diff oil instead?

Ah that explains it! I was beginning to think that my car had grease on the diff instead of the oil it should have had. So do I use the same oil on the rear diff or use the grease? Thanks for the help